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  • 标题:The Effects of Tidal Translation on Wave and Current Dynamics on a Barred Macrotidal Beach, Northern France
  • 本地全文:下载
  • 作者:Arnaud Héquette ; Adrien Cartier ; François G. Schmitt
  • 期刊名称:Journal of Marine Science and Engineering
  • 电子版ISSN:2077-1312
  • 出版年度:2021
  • 卷号:9
  • 期号:8
  • 页码:909
  • DOI:10.3390/jmse9080909
  • 语种:English
  • 出版社:MDPI AG
  • 摘要:Barred macrotidal beaches are affected by continuous horizontal displacements of different hydrodynamic zones associated with wave transformation (shoaling, breaker and surf zones) due to significant tide-induced water level changes. A series of wave and current meters, complemented by a video imagery system, were deployed on a barred beach of northern France during a 6-day experiment in order to characterize the spatial and temporal variability of wave-induced processes across the beach. Wave and current spectral analyses and analyses of cross-shore current direction and asymmetry resulted in the identification of distinct hydrodynamic processes, including the development of infragravity waves and offshore-directed flows in the breaker and surf zones. Our results revealed a high spatial variability in the hydrodynamic processes across the beach, related to the bar-trough topography, as well as significant variations in the directions and intensity of cross-shore currents at fixed locations due to the horizontal translation of the different hydrodynamic zones resulting from continuous changes in water level due to tides.
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