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  • 标题:Observation of a giant nonlinear wave-packet on the surface of the ocean
  • 本地全文:下载
  • 作者:Miguel Onorato ; Luigi Cavaleri ; Stephane Randoux
  • 期刊名称:Scientific Reports
  • 电子版ISSN:2045-2322
  • 出版年度:2021
  • 卷号:11
  • DOI:10.1038/s41598-021-02875-y
  • 语种:English
  • 出版社:Springer Nature
  • 摘要:In many physical systems such as ocean waves, nonlinear optics, plasma physics etc., extreme events and rare fluctuations of a wave field have been widely observed and discussed. In the field of oceanography and naval architecture, their understanding is fundamental for a correct design of platforms and ships, and for performing safe operations at sea. Here, we report a measurement of an impressive and unique wave packet recorded in the Bay of Biscay in the North-East of the Atlantic Ocean. An analysis of the spatial extension of the packet that includes three large waves reveals that it extents for more than 1 km, with individual crests moving faster than 100 km/h. The central and largest wave in the packet was 27.8 m high in a sea with significant wave height of 11 m. A detailed analysis of the data using the nonlinear Fourier analysis reveals that the wave packet is characterized by a non trivial nonlinear content. This observation opens a new paradigm which requires new understanding of the dynamics of ocean waves and, more in general, of nonlinear and dispersive waves.
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