摘要：Background: A challenge for designers is to create fashionable and very well-fitting personalised garments (multi-layered) that have a suitable shape (balance and size) and provide the wearer with the desired degree of freedom. In this paper, the authors have developed an ergonomic solution for designing the pattern of a business casual men’s jacket by integrating the dynamic data of the body into the design process. Methodology: The pattern was elaborated by interactive design process based on mathematical relationships and the use of specific input data. The 3D virtual prototype was created in Clo3D (the static and typical dynamic positions of the mannequin). The dynamic data needed for the study were measured directly on 50 male subjects. These values were analysed by using the statistical method and then integrated into the design scenario in a specific way. The shapes of the new 3D prototypes were evaluated by examining the relationships between the constructive and longitudinal allowance along the back region as independent variables and sleeve angle and upper back tension as dependent variables. Results: By allowing a certain degree of dynamic effect in the design process, one can see that the personalized model of the casual business jacket with Ab (constructive allowance) = 4.5 cm and Aars (longitudinal allowance distributed along with the back height) = 3.6 cm is well balanced and fits the body. Conclusions: This design method can be used and further developed for other garment categories and customers by any design department that has the right IT tools to facilitate the personalized design process.
