Memories of Iraq.
Jackie Spinner asked a number of journalists about their favorite
reporting moments in Iraq. Here are their responses:
LARA JAKES, Associated Press
"A few months after I moved to Iraq, I went to interview a
sheikh in the town of Youssifiyah, a former al Qaeda haven just south of
Baghdad. The trip took a little longer than I'd expected, and I
politely declined to stay for lunch when invited at the end of the
interview. The sheikh insisted and again, I said I was honored but I
needed to get back to the office and start writing the story. Finally my
translator quietly said in my ear, 'Lara, we should stay.' As
soon as I accepted the invitation, the sheikh's family started
bringing in tables and tables of food. The women clearly had been
working for days to cook for me what must have been a week's worth
of the family's sustenance. I was beyond overwhelmed, humbled by
their generosity, ashamed that I'd been so close to walking away
and effectively wasting all their food and efforts. It was a wonderful
lesson for me about the renowned hospitality of Iraq's people, and
it changed the way I saw and covered the country."
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
HANNAH ALLAM, McClatchy
"In August 2004, as U.S. warplanes were dropping 1,000-pound
bombs to root out Sadrists from the old quarter of Najaf, I was holed up
in the Imam Ali shrine with stranded civilians, Mahdi Army commanders,
civilian Sadrist supporters and a bunch of terrified pigeons. The
airstrikes were so close and so strong that we'd lie on the ground
and feel it shake so hard that it felt like our bones would come popping
out of our skin. They were so strong that, after a while, it was hard to
tell which was worse: the actual strikes or the sickening dread that
preceded the next one. It was also boiling hot, August in southern Iraq,
and in the brief lulls between air raids, the women in the shrine would
run to the bathroom and soak their headscarves in water to keep cool.
During one of those bathroom breaks, an old Iraqi woman turned to me and
said something to the effect of, 'You know, my heart breaks for
them. Here they are, so far away from home, far away from their
families, in this war. They have mothers, too.' It took me a while
to realize that this woman trapped in a besieged shrine was expressing
sympathy for ordinary American soldiers. It was just one of thousands of
examples I witnessed of Iraqi resilience, compassion and humanity in the
face of foreign occupation and civil war."
TIM ARANGO, New York Times
"One that sticks out for me is a hunting trip I went on in
Fallujah with one of the local sheikhs who was a prominent Awakening
leader. I had just arrived in Iraq, and I just had this sense of,
'Wow, I'm really here.' And of course, Fallujah is one of
those evocative words from the Iraq war that brings to mind the battles
and the killing of the Blackwater guards, but that day it was quite
peaceful. Sadly, that sheikh was recently killed by a suicide bomber in
Anbar."
NED PARKER, Los Angeles Times
"In 2010, our paper broke news of a secret jail system run by
Prime Minister Noun i al-Maliki's office. It was rewarding for us
when the family of a victim thanked us for reporting on the facility
because it meant the place where their loved one was held existed and
could not be dismissed as fantasy."
JANE ARRAF, who opened CNN's Baghdad bureau
"I think a lot of us do what we do for those moments when
things come together in unexpected ways and reveal something real. And
for me here, a lot of time they're in places that I couldn't
go to before the war. In the southern marshes recently on an absolutely
magical trip, we pulled up in a boat to an empty fishing camp where our
boatman cooked bread on the reeds the same way the Sumerians did. The
owner of the camp pulled up--he must have been about 50 but seemed
older--and our guide introduced himself. All of a sudden, they started
hugging each other and crying. They had been in grade school together
and hadn't seen each other in 40 years. They talked about another
schoolmate who had been executed when Saddam was at war with Iran and
drained the marshes. The man had a rifle he used to hunt whatever birds
were flying over the migratory bird path. It was a little glimpse into a
completely different world."
JAMES JANEGA, Chicago Tribune
"The stories that took place during 2004, 2005 and 2007 were
important and satisfying. I was always proud to have done embedded
reporting in places like Fallujah, Ramadi, Baqubah, Baghdad and Al Qaim.
No single memory stands out--just satisfaction in telling a part of
those big stories under difficult conditions. And a few bits of oddly
incongruous beauty--watching the sun set over the Tigris, the turquoise
water of the Euphrates below Haditha, watching a dust storm roll in from
the canyon around Al Asad airbase, the stars over the Jazeera desert.
That kind of thing."
STEVE FAINARU, Washington Post
"Most of my favorite Iraq memories revolve around the friends
I made, but especially [reporters] Anthony [Shadid] and Karl [Vick], how
close we became during that time. Anthony and I went out on a bunch of
stories together in 2005, and I think we both felt those trips were the
most 'fun, if you could call it that, that we had in Iraq. One trip
we flew up the Baiji and did a story about the tragicomedy that was the
training of the Iraqi military by the U.S. Anthony hopped in the back of
a truck with the Iraqis and they were singing songs to Saddam! That
became the lead to our story. Then we flew to Kirkuk to chase a tip that
the Kurds were abducting Sunnis off the street and shipping them off to
secret prisons in Kurdistan. Incredibly, it was true. Somehow we had
time to play poker, drink scotch, work out, edit my brother's book
and watch multiple episodes of the 'Sopranos,' all on that
same one-week trip. That was Anthony in a nutshell: He always seemed to
be writing amazing stories. I really miss him, like everyone."
[Shadid died in February 2012 while reporting in Syria.]
LARRY KAPLOW, who covered Iraq for Cox
"One that stands out was the day the regime fell, April 9,
2003. I was in Baghdad doing street interviews with a government
'minder' in the morning. He eventually got too nervous about
what was going to happen and asked to go back to our hotel. I was
working with Anthony Shadid that day and, of course, it was great to
hear his take on what seemed significant. Among the Iraqis, you could
sense the excitement as well as the anxiety over the chaos to come. I
talked to a guy who I had interviewed a week before, when he'd been
praising Saddam. As soon as I approached him at his little restaurant,
he said he was going to have some different answers than he did before
and started to talk about how the regime's repression had affected
him. But as soon as the first column of Marines came through Karrada,
even the people who greeted them were nervous. A couple ophthalmologists
came out of their clinic--they spoke English--and told me that the
Marines should take the U.S. flags off their vehicles because it looked
like occupation and would anger Iraqis. There were already stories of
armed Mahdi militia members organizing the streets in Sadr City. The
looting was going to start within hours as people realized the oil
ministry was the only ministry being protected by U.S. forces. The day
was dominated by the main news storyline--the regime's fall--but it
provided a good condensed lesson in what would soon go wrong and how
important it was to listen to Iraqis carefully."