Studies on the adherence of the thermoglued textile ensembles method and instrument used.

Vrinceanu, Narcisa ; Sandu, Ion ; Stefanuta, Ioan 等

1. INTRODUCTION

Thermogluing is the operation by which two ore more textile materials, superposed in layers, are joined by means of adhesives. Nowadays, the thermogluing is the only method of obtaining undetachable joinings between both different materials and of the same nature materials, as well as joinings of textile materials with different destinations (Stefanuta, 2001)

The textile products subjected to thermogluing show improved functional characteristics: spatial forming of some underensembles, in order to the modelling of the items shape against the human body anatomy (or the shape of objects, in case of covering type guide marks), the increase of rigidity and strength (according to the type of solicitations the ensemble is subjected to, within the manufacturing, wearing or care processes), high dimensional stability, thanks to margins consolidation, detail doubling with auxiliary.

The adhesion or the adherence can be defined as the adhesive ability to provide a mechanical strength to the joining between two objects. From physical point of view, the adhesion can be considered as a resultant of the attraction, intermolecular forces, expressing at the contact surfaces level of different solids or liquids (Stefanuta, 2001).

2. THE PRINCIPLE OF THE ENSEMBLING

The basic of the ensembling consists of adhesion of the adhesive to those two types material surfaces, under a regime well-determined by some certain parameters. These parameters are: temperature--generated by heated metallic surfaces, pressure--exercised by calender cylinders onto heated layers, and time--of heating and pressure exposure, parameter expressed by movement speed of the subensemble through work area (Cioara et all, 2000).

The work regime is an important component of the technology design and, basically, it depends upon some factors as: structure and nature of the raw material from basic material (Stefanuta, 2001), the adhesive's nature and properties, structure and nature of the raw material from auxilliary (insertion), the type of adhesion.

3. THE PHYSICO-MECHANICAL CHARACTERISTICS OF BOTH BASIC MATERIAL AND ADHESIVE INSERTION

3.1. Basic Materials

The basic materials used are as follows:

Cotton type fabric--cotton--100%--cotton--98% + ellastan--2% --cotton--80% + polyamide--18% + ellastan--2%--cotton--53% + polyester--43% + ellastan--4%

Woollen type fabric

--wool--96% + ellastan--4%--wool--60% + polyester--38% + ellastan--2% -wool--44% + polyester--54% + ellastan--2%

3.2. The Insertion

4. METHOD, INSTRUMENT USED AND EXPERIMENTAL WORK

4.1. Method Used

In order to test the adherence strength of textile thermoglued underensembles, the samples are subjected to the traction solicitation. Rectangular samples (160 mm X 50 mm ), samples consisting of basic material layer and a layer of insertion were used, highlighting that the gluing of these two layers was made only on a distance of 120 mm.

The distance between jaws is 50 mm, and the speed of dynamometer jaw movement is 100 mm/min. After the testing, some parameters were displayed: effort--extention diagram, the minimum, maximum and the averaged tension, which were used for adherence calculus (DIN 53859 Part 2).

The adherence relation is as follows (Preda et all, 1996):

[A.sub.F] = [F.sub.m]/1E [N/cm]; (1)

where: --[F.sub.m]--the averaged tension--1E--the sample width, expressed in cm.

4.2. The Instrument

4.2.1. General considerations

Titan's software has been pre-programmed with British (BS), European (EN), International (ISO), American (ASTM) and Retailers' Standards (e.g. Next, M&S); the instrument's software is easy to follow. The tests are both quick and easy. The standards are grouped in three application modules: tensile, seam slippage and security of attachments; tear, peel bond and wing rip; stretch and recovery (cyclic) testing (Technical book of [Titan.sup.2]).

[FIGURE 1 OMITTED]

[FIGURE 2 OMITTED]

4.2.2. Technical data

4.3. Experimental Work

--8 samples are made on longitudinal direction, from each type of basic material, so that 4 samples should be from each type of material with one of two types of insertions;

--for each sample, 40 mm will be left without being glued;

--the samples were conditioned;

--the distance between the dynamometer jaws should be 50 mm, and the speed of lifting the jaw [C.sub.1], up to 100 mm/min, according to the DIN 53859 Part 2;

--the data necessary for the test, the test's name, the number of samples, the type of basic material and the type of insertion are introduced on the computer;

--the sample is laid between the dynamometer jaws and the instrument is running;

--the adherence is expressed on the basis of data provided by the computer.

[FIGURE 3 OMITTED]

5. CONCLUSION

An adequate and high quality process of thermogluing influences positively the wearing and easy-care characterisitics of clothes.

The studied method and the instrument used in this paper are updated and according to the standards;

The cotton and woollen basic materials prevail in manufacturing processes;

Insertions used for tests provide strength and stability to the underensembles.

6. REFERENCES

Cioara, L., Cristian, I., Onofrei E., (2000) Textile tissues structure characteristics and properties., Performantica, ISBN 973-730-029-7

DIN 53859 Part 2--Tear growth testing of textile fabrics.

Preda, C.; Preda, Cr. (1996). Methods and apparatus for Quality Control of textiles designed for wearing clothes manufacturing, BIT, ISBN 973-97907-2-0, Iasi;

Stefanuta, I. (2001). Processes and machines for textile clothing industry, ULB, ISBN: 973-651-229-0, Sibiu;

Technical book of [Titan.sup.2]--Universal Strength Tester, Model 710

Tab. 1. Characteristics of the insertion

CHARACTERISTICS Insertion A Insertion B
 (EE 6035) (CY 1022)

Composition 70% polyamide 100% polyester
 +30% polyester,
 and has
 insertions on
 the wrap
 direction

Weight 9 g/[m.sub.2] 12 g/[m.sub.2]

Utilisation For small and For basic textile,
 big items; for especially for
 women and those subjected to
 men items some modern
 finishing treatments

THERMOGLUING by means of calender cylinders

temperature used 116--127 [degrees]C 138--149 [degrees]C
time 8--12 sec 12--15 sec
pressure 2--4 barr or 15 3--5 barr or 30 -
 -30 N/[cm.sub.2] 45 N/[cm.sub.2]

THERMOGLUING by means of press machine

temperature used 116-127[degrees]C 138-149[degrees]C
time 8-12 sec 12--15 sec
pressure 200-350 mbarr 300--450 mbarr

ITEMS EASY-CARE

Washing 60 [degrees]C 95 [degrees]C
Ironning 130 [degrees]C 130 [degrees]C
Spinning and drying yes yes
Chemical treatments whitening whitening

Tab. 2. Technical data of Titan

4.2.2. Technical data

LOAD

Capacity 3000 N

Range 1-100 %

Available load 3000/600/120 N
cells

EXTENSION

Maximum speed 4000 mm / min

Testing/return/jog 2--4000 mm / min
speed

Maximum stroke 600 mm

Total vertical test 840 mm
space

PNEUMATICS

Input pressure 800 kPa / 8 bar / 110 PSI
Testing pressure 800 kPa / 8 bar / 110 PSI

Air preparation Filtered to 5 microns (absolute) or
 better to remove excess particulates,
 oil and moisture

SAFETY

Gripping Low pressure during specimen
 loading

Jaw movement Impact protection

Load cell Force overload inhibit

Conformity Complies with CE Directives

CONTROL SYSTEM

Type CRE

PC Control Windows XP or VISTA running
 dedicated software

Drive control Digital precision closed loop
 A.C. servo system via RS232
 serial port

Power 110--230V [+ or -] 10 %, 50-60 Hz,
requirements 500 W