摘要：The social construction of cultural heritage is inherent in the conflict between actors involved in this process, in continuous asymmetric negotiating from positions around the appropriation of symbols that are loaded with meanings about what is meant by indigenous and traditional. The ubiquitous market has a decisive bearing on these dynamics of redefining cultural references associated with specific regions and social groups for incorporation into products to global markets with new meanings. An empirical case allows us to check how we arrived at this theoretical position within a specific framework. Based on what are known as quality GIs (Quality Geographical Indication/Designation of origin), we approach a product with a great symbolic power and brand-recognition such as Iberian ham in Spain, to discuss how they redefine their main cultural values and which actors come into conflict around it.
关键词：Alimentary anthropology;cultural heritage;geographical indications;Iberian ham;protected designation of origin;Jabugo;power;social conflictIntroducción.;Antropología;alimentación;patrimonio cultural;indicaciones geográficas;jamón ibérico;denominación de origen protegido;Jabugo;poder;conflicto social.
