Orange Empire: California and the Fruits of Eden.
Jacobsen, Thomas P.
ORANGE EMPIRE: California and the Fruits of Eden
By Douglas Cazaux Sackman (Berkeley, University of California
Press, 2005, 386 pp., $45 cloth)
Orange Empire goes well beyond a scholarly presentation of facts
and figures about the rise and fall of one of California's
mightiest and longest-lived institutions; it is a personalized and
penetrating survey of California's citrus industry from the Mexican
period to the present. It views agricultural "success" first
through the lens of the commercialized glamour of the California Dream.
It then peels back the story, layer upon layer, to reveal the underside
of corporate-scale agricultural development. As Douglas Cazaux Sackman
makes clear, agricultural success in California came at the expense of
the land, farm labor, and other natural and human resources.
The author opens with a vision of California's citrus industry
as seen through the bucolic images found on fruit crate labels,
promotional publications, point-of-sale displays in the East, and
railroad advertising campaigns. Miles upon miles of sun drenched groves,
purple snow-capped mountains, alabaster-skinned women hand-picking
luscious fruit from the cornucopia of California's agricultural
Eden, fall away as the truth behind the industry that promoted these
images comes into brilliant focus.
Douglas Sackman's portrait of the industry includes the
challenges of the land, irrigation, insects, genetics, chemicals, and
mechanization in the fields. It also includes the toils of farm laborers
through the decades, including their mercilessly thwarted attempts at
unionization. Boiled away in this literary crucible are the myths of
California's idyllic advertising imagery and the slogans of
Sunkist's corporate advertising claims, leaving the harsh realities
of a century of brutally evolved mechanized corporate farming and its
manipulation of the public's perceptions.
Sackman's passionate dedication to his subject is clear, as he
works to dispel the myths portrayed in the advertising imagery of the
past century; yet he also draws a parallel between myth and reality,
leaving room for both to coexist. While it's true that a label with
a pretty girl would sell oranges in the East; it's also true that
farm laborers and packing-house women, ever-bending their arthritic
fingers, would have had no jobs without the orange growers. Colorful
brochures bellowed claims of prosperity, urging newcomers to journey to
California, yet in the Dust Bowl years of the 1930s, thousands of tons
of fresh oranges were destroyed before the eyes of starving immigrants
because Sunkist "couldn't make a dime from them."
If millions of crates of oranges, lemons and grapefruits left
California annually for half a century, then billions of labels carried
the idyllic images to consumers worldwide. The images had a simple job:
to portray the allure of citrus products and to motivate the consumer to
buy. Orange Empire offers the reader the chance to climb inside these
images and visit the groves, the workers, and the packing houses, and to
meet the growers, the corporations and the advertisers. If the images
were the window by which the product could be seen, then Douglas Cazaux
Sackman's book is the window by which the citrus industry itself
may be seen.
This reviewer is a twenty-eight-year veteran historian of
California label art, lithography, and agricultural advertising. Orange
Empire will remain a key reference in my library, and I enthusiastically
recommend it.
REVIEWED BY THOMAS P. "PAT" JACOBSEN, AGRILITHOLIGIST AND
FRUIT-CRATE LABEL HISTORIAN, WEIMAR, CA.