Textiles sector of Pakistan: the challenge beyond 2004.
Khan, Naheed Zia
This study focuses on the challenge to Pakistan's effective
participation in the multilateral trading system of the next millennium.
Among the prerequisites for a more effective integration is the
restructuring of the country's textiles and clothing industry. The
situation of the latter is analysed and it is argued that the textiles
sector of Pakistan is currently hampered by a number of structural
factors and appears to be ill prepared for seizing the opportunities
arising from the rules and concessions of the post-MFA trading system of
the next century. Particularly, it will be the category of made-ups and
clothing where Pakistan is expected to face fierce competition with the
elimination of the MFA. The restructuring challenge is analysed by
concentrating on both domestic and external factors and it is suggested
that improved forms of customer focus, information collection and
management must be producers' priorities and a major effort is
required on the part of Pakistan's Government with respect to
infrastructure development and institution building. Finally, it is
concluded that factors in one category often interact in important ways,
both with one another and with factors in other category. Those who
remain competitive by using all means available will survive. Those that
do not may find global textiles market something to fear.
INTRODUCTION
The world is presently looking forward to embrace the greatest
moment of modern history of humankind, turn of the millennium. For
Pakistan, however, the millennium celebrations are going to be
accompanied by over half a century of missed opportunities and a serious
challenge ahead. The focus of this study is Pakistan's status as a
'single commodity' country and the life after 2004 in a
post-Multifibre Arrangement (MFA) era. This work intends to use the
hindsight to argue that MFA, a cat's cradle of bilateral textile
import quotas, was a blessing in disguise for the value added textiles
sector of Pakistan. And the difficulties beyond 2004, when all the
quotas have gone, should not be underestimated in a bipolar (NAFTA and
the EU) and deregulated world economy . The analysis is carried out in
four parts. Part I highlights the economic significance of
Pakistan's textiles industry by briefly analysing its contribution
to different sectors of her economy. Part II presents the past, present
and future scenario of international trade in Textiles and Clothing
(T&C). The present situation of Pakistan's textiles industry
along with its foreign exchange generating performance in the past is
assessed in Part III. Finally, Part IV analyses the prospects and
challenges faced by the T&C sector of Pakistan.
I. TEXTILES SECTOR OF PAKISTAN: ECONOMIC SIGNIFICANCE
The textiles industry may rightly be called the buttress of
Pakistan's economy for following three reasons. First, its backward
linkage with the agricultural sector, the life line of Pakistan's
economy, is the strongest. Second, T&C are the biggest manufacturing
units in the country, accounting for the largest share of manufacturing
investment, value added, and employment. Third, and most important,
these are high export interest enterprises. Given the comprehensive
spill over effects of this sector, in the event of any external or
internal upset this sector is bound to cause serious imbalances in the
whole economy of Pakistan.
Table 1 provides an overview of the T&C industry's
contribution to various sectors of Pakistan's economy. Data in
Table 1 show that Pakistan's cotton and textiles sectors
contributed to export earnings over 65 percent of the total between
1986-90. Its share of 37 percent in manufacturing employment shows that,
apart from its importance as the major source of foreign exchange
earnings, T&C sector is the largest source of employment generation
in the manufacturing sector of Pakistan. The economic significance of
T&C sector is further strengthened by its relative contribution to
the manufacturing investment, above 21 percent of the total between
1986-90. Taking into account this very large share of T&C sector in
investment, it is not surprising that this industry also makes the
largest contribution to the value addition in the manufacturing sector
and pays substantial amounts in the form of indirect taxes. Table 1
registers over 20 percent and 8 percent contribution to value addition
and manufacturing indirect taxes respectively during 1986-90. The
contribution to indirect taxes may appear small at the outset, but its
significance for the exchequer should not be underrated in a country
where size of the underground economy has grown to 51 percent of GDP [Zafar, Qureshi and Mahmood (1998)].
II. REFERENCE OF ANALYSIS: INTERNATIONAL TRADE IN TEXTILES AND
CLOTHING
T&C are labour intensive products and traditionally this
industry has been the entree into manufacturing for developing
countries. However, this route has long been made more difficult by the
MFA, in operation since 1974, through which the EU, the US and most
other developed countries regulate import from developing countries.
Indeed, trade in T&C has always been to the advantage of developing
countries' exporters in the past, as GATT principles have not
applied to this sector. That is because the developed countries with
textiles industries had to undergo 'structural adjustment' to
maintain their competitive edge). (1) Since 1st January 1995,
international T&C trade is going through fundamental change under
the 10 year transitional programme of the WTO's Agreement on
Textiles and Clothing (ATC). Under the agreement, WTO members have
committed themselves to remove the quotas by 1st January 2005 and fully
integrate T&C trade into GATT rules. (2)
While MFA was a major distortion of the world trade which affected
many developing countries' participation in world trade in T&C,
individual countries have been affected in very different ways by MFA.
There are two major categories of developing countries' T&C
exporters. The first category includes the countries which currently
have a strong comparative advantage, like India and China, (3) and whose
market access has been tightly restricted, and which therefore will
benefit from the abolition of MFA related restrictions. In the second
category, on the other hand, there are countries which may suffer due to
transitional cost. Pakistan, unfortunately, lists in the latter
category. The problem is escalated when the account is taken of the
relatively large quotas Pakistan has been enjoying and fully utilising.
As given in Table 2, Pakistan was allotted the largest quota in the EU
market after South Korea and its quota utilisation rate has been the
highest of all its Asian competitors. Further, since the imposition of
MFA there has been, in the meantime, emergence of even lower cost
suppliers in the Far East.
Pakistan is the largest exporter of cotton yarn in the world and
the fourth largest exporter of cotton fabric. (4) But Pakistan's
T&C industry is at a phenomenal disadvantage compared to South East
Asian (SEA) countries. SEA countries, including Japan, Hong Kong, South
Korea and Indonesia are main markets for Pakistan's yarn exports.
These countries re-export textiles after substantial value addition. As
documented in Table 3, in recent years, Pakistan's competitive
position in the world market has further weakened relative to its Asian
competitors. The figures show that, except for Indonesia and India,
share of all of its Asian competitors, falling under the MFA regime, in
world merchandise exports value more than doubled in 16 years to 1996.
Compared to Pakistan, even India's share is substantially higher in
1996 from its 1980 level. The Indonesian share, however, registered a
decrease which might have been caused by the political turmoil of the
last years of Suharto regime coupled with the onset of "Asian
crisis". Although Thailand is widely believed the biggest victim of
the "Asian crisis" and -1 percent fall in its export value in
1997 is justified on that ground, Pakistan, ironically, appears to have
been inflicted most by the "Asian crisis": the bonanza in
1996, which might have been the result of the appreciation of the
currencies of its SEA competitors, was followed by -6 percent negative
growth in its merchandise exports value during 1997. (5) Pakistani yarn,
the largest foreign exchange earning item of her exports, is now facing
competition from Indian varieties in its traditional markets of the Far
East, particularly Japan.
Furthermore, Pakistan is generally not perceived to be a preferred
supplier by buyers in the export markets. Its T&C industry is
generally considered to be the one which does not appreciate competition
oriented dynamics of market, as it lacks innovative ideas and supplies a
limited product range of lower than average quality level. These
problems are present to a varying degree in all textiles producing
developing countries. But many of the countries have resolved them in
part and are reaping the dividends, while lack of diversification and
low quality of Pakistani T&C products have eroded country's
comparative advantage even in the quota markets. In 1993 quota
utilisation in certain categories for the major EU countries was as low
as 20 percent. For USA, the comparable number was 28 percent [Azhar
(1995)]. Thus the optimism about Pakistan's enhanced textiles
exports, based on the presumption that quota regime has severely
constrained its export performance [Naqvi and Mahmood (1995)], in the
post-MFA era is misplaced. And there is little doubt that the primary
problem behind the poor performance of Pakistan's T&C exports
is an inadequate domestic supply response rather than a lack of export
opportunities. (6) In recent years, Pakistan's quota utilisation
performance rather lends supports to the argument that a fully utilised
quota does not always imply that it has been binding [Erzan et al.
(1989)].
In the non-quota markets, buyers of Pakistani yarn and cloth are
heavily concentrated in East Asia. Now the Chinese, Indian and other
Asian competitors can supply even these products at lower prices. (7)
Further, since importing non-quota countries have no threat to their
upstream textiles industry, their buyers are highly price sensitive due
to the commodity nature of items. Another challenge is that major buyers
of Pakistani yarn in Far East Asia are gradually moving out of textiles
industry. For future growth, exporters will have to tap new markets in a
world where the already stiff competition is increasingly getting
fierce.
So far, unfortunately, Pakistan has not been able to take advantage
of its cheap labour and domestic raw material availability to capture a
significant share of the world T&C market. In FY 1992, country
produced 12.7 percent of the world cotton output, but its share in the
world T&C exports barely crossed 2 percent mark, and for most of the
years before that it remained close to 1 percent [Ministry of Commerce
(1993)].
III. PAKISTAN'S TEXTILES AND CLOTHING INDUSTRY: STRENGTH AND
WEAKNESSES
Textiles industry in Pakistan has in its credit the largest number
of manufacturing units in the formal sector of the economy. This merit
is, however, marred by the fact that over 50 years of its existence it
has shown very poor record of self-sustained balanced growth through
downward integration. Figure 1 generally summarises value addition
downstream of textiles industry.
Pakistan's textiles industry can be broken into three main
categories, spinning, weaving and composites. In the organised sector
spinning, with approximately 8.23m spindles and 0.143m rotors [Pakistan
(1998)], is the biggest industry. As textiles manufacturers relied
heavily on yarn exports, spindle capacity significantly increased over
the years. At the same time, the actual capacity utilisation has fallen
from 94 percent in 1959 to 79 percent in 1997 [ibid]. Spinning sector
suffers from over-capacity because it was not complemented by
corresponding increase in capacities of downstream industries. As a
matter of fact, the real textiles sector comprises value addition
downstream industries, weaving, finishing and manufacture of made-ups,
including garments, respectively. (8) But spinners have always dominated
the industry and the huge increase in spinning capacity is the result of
the concentration of effort on the export of this low value added
product category. (9) Table 4 provides annual average contribution of
various cotton and textiles categories in Pakistan's export
earnings. As listed in Table 4a, cotton yarn made the largest
contribution, 33.6 percent, in the total foreign exchange earnings of
six cotton and textiles categories between 1970-96. Its contribution was
ever largest, 41.9 percent, during 1990-96, the last sub-period.
Accordingly, the contribution of cotton yarn turns out to be highest,
12.19 percent between 1970-96, also in Table 4b. which lists the
relative contribution of same product categories in total export
earnings of the country. The same trend is observed in Table 4c. Which
is based on a different set of data. The figures documented in Table 4
show that the share of high value added products was much lower in total
export earnings than the potential of the country. After cotton yarn,
cotton cloth constituted the largest share, 31.5 percent and 11.06
percent during 1970-96, and 11.22 percent during 1978-94 in a., b. and
c. of Table 4 respectively. Ready made garments accounted for the third
largest share, 6:13 percent, of export earnings during 1978-94, followed
by made-ups of textiles. Share of raw cotton in exports varied vary
widely because of fluctuations in the quantum of cotton available for
exports. Table 4 provides the evidence that Pakistan's exports
earnings still primarily consist of raw cotton and intermediate textiles
products.
[FIGURE 1 OMITTED]
The latter, unfortunately, are low quality and fetch low price. Not
to speak of large countries like China and India, it is a matter of
great concern to note that even a small country Bangladesh which does
not produce a gram of cotton has emerged as a major competitor for
Pakistan's garments exports. Realising its limitations, Bangladesh
did not go for the establishment of upstream industries and availed the
advantage of low-cost manpower for manufacturing the highest value
addition product, garments. (10) Further, not falling under MFA regime
was an advantage which Bangladesh exploited to a maximum. On the
contrary, given that Pakistan is among the top five cotton producing
countries with abundant labour, it could be suggested with the benefit
of hindsight that MFA appears to be one of the major factors causing the
production of low quality products and unbalanced growth of
Pakistan's textiles sector. (11) As mentioned earlier, the latter
suffers from an imbalance between spinning, weaving and processing.
Spinning constitutes 68 percent of the total listed units, weaving 12
percent and composite 20 percent [APTMA]. The imbalance makes the
spinners all the more powerful and they are able to enforce their vested
interests. Spinners status as the largest earners of foreign exchange
must be discounted by the fact that spectacular growth of this sector
owes to out of the proportion public policy favours, at both domestic
and external fronts. (12) In spite of more than fifty years of its
existence, this sector, unfortunately, still needs crutches to live on.
Although Pakistan's textiles industry enjoys enormous
advantages compared to other manufacturing activities of the country, it
has so far failed to achieve competitiveness in terms of quality, value
addition and price optimisation through Balancing, Modernisation and
Restructuring (BMR). Pakistan's textiles producers kept the myopic view of the market and spared themselves the investment efforts which
could have brought the industry and the country the dividends of
long-run viability and sustainability of high GDP growth rates respectively. However, in all fairness, the Government policy, has been
equally responsible for the ailment of Pakistan's textiles sector.
For example, the nationalisation of Pakistan's banking industry in
the 1970s' was followed by very liberal industrial financing
policies of the Government to offset the private investment effects of
the nationalisation of manufacturing units. The policy of liberal
industrial financing helped in expanding both the vertical and
horizontal base of the textiles industry. Unfortunately, this windfall was disbursed and availed in an unplanned manner by the lending and
borrowing parties respectively. The commonplace practice of
over-invoicing resulted in eroding the viability of projects. As a
matter of fact, the debt/equity ratio of Pakistan's manufacturing
sector as a whole was drastically changed to include the extra added
risk of further nationalisation. It went from 60:40 to 70:30, then to
80:20 and finally ended up at 90:10 [Altaf (1989)]. In some cases
financial institutions provided 100 percent capital, leaving the entire
control to the private sector i.e. a state enterprise in private hands
[ibid]. Resultantly, the textiles industry, specifically its weaving and
spinning sectors, (13) are currently under heavy burden of loans most of
which have become overdue in repayments. Despite frequent rescheduling
and all efforts of the Government and the banks, the default levels are
high and recovery position is very weak. The largest percentage of
stuck-up loans belongs to the textiles sector. Data on companies
debt/equity and dividend ratio in Table 5 and Table 6 are useful, albeit
rough, indication of the magnitude of problem. The evidence provided in
Table 6 shows that the performance of the textiles industry has been
very disappointing on the stock exchange market. There are about 238
textiles companies on the board of Karachi Stock Exchange (KSE). Hardly
a little over 20 percent of their shares are selling at face value or
above. (14) The investors confidence in the textiles industry has
shattered as many shares of the companies on KSE are selling at below 20
percent of the face value resulting in heavy losses to the holders. (15)
Even some of the blue-chip companies have been under severe recession
for the last few years. The evidence listed in Table 6 shows that most
of the textiles units are either running in loss or don not declare any
cash dividends to the stockholders.
The fortunes of both Pakistan's economy and her textiles
industry are closely tied to the cotton growers. Although Pakistan is
among the top five cotton producing countries, its cotton yield is much
lower compared to many other cotton producing countries. (16) But except
for FY 1992, when cotton crop recorded Pakistan's highest ever
yield of 12.7m bales, the actual production of cotton has mostly been
lower than the original estimates and cotton 'production in
Pakistan has never exceeded 10.5m bales mark. Furthermore, although the
quality of cotton has showed improvement over the past records, it is
still below the international standards. The main buyers, spinners, did
not invested any efforts towards improvement in quality. By buying
whatever was available in ginning factories and producing yarn
accordingly, they failed to give any standardisation system to upstream
producers. In other textiles producing country, especially in USA, the
spinners guide the breeders and growers about the required fibre
properties. More importantly, the ginning factories have been
excessively complacent to the quality improvement. Pakistan spent
millions of foreign exchange in evolving a new standardisation system
for ginning based on scientific methods and latest technology with the
assistance of FAO, UNDP and ADB. Although tested and approved for over
10 years, this system has not been implemented in the ginning process
for improving the cotton Grade. The low Grade raw cotton, in turn,
adversely effects the quality of yarn and fabric. Resultantly,
Pakistan's textiles export fetch lower prices in international
market. Table 7a. documents the annual compound growth rates of exports
volume and value of the textiles categories listed in Table 6a. and b.
All categories show that volume growth rates exceed the value growth
rates. The volume exporters try to solicit orders by offering lower
prices and seem to be interested in 'one shot' business rather
than developing long-term relationship with the customers. Table 7 also
shows that value growth rates demonstrate a general trend of being
increasingly higher for successive value added textiles categories. A
closer look at Table 6 and Table 7 together suggests that producers
focus on the lower ebb of the market, concentrating on cotton yarn,
which is largely coarser and of medium count, (17) and neglect the value
added most profitable segment of the market. As a matter of fact, the
downstream producers, particularly garment manufacturers, don not have a
financially viable internal market. Thus they don not have the cost
advantages that can be attained either in large scale diversified firms
or in long production runs in specialised firms. The only way
Pakistan's downstream textiles producers can achieve these
advantages is through easy access and a high degree of familiarity with
export markets. Unfortunately, Pakistan's garment producers
scarcely have any customer feedback system in both internal and external
markets. In recent years, the faster growth of supply of garments and
made-ups of textiles compared to the growth in their demand coupled with
the recent slowing of demand in major markets has resulted in
buyers' hegemony in international market, causing falling profit
margins for manufacturers and increasing emphasis on design, quality and
service. These changes are projected to continue and will constitute a
challenge for Pakistan's T&C producers, particularly as the new
trade equilibrium develops in the next millennium after the abolition of
MFA.
The evidence provided in this part supports the conclusion that
textiles sector in Pakistan has relied heavily on static comparative
advantage in cotton production and did not really focus on the dynamics
of increasing productivity. In spite of its existence for over 50 years,
Pakistan's textiles industry is still living on cheap cotton,
fiscal, monetary and commercial policy incentives and trade barriers for
its survival. Even when an industry is viable without incentives and
protection, competitiveness and comparative advantage are temporary
according to the argument of product cycle theory [Vernon (1966)]. In
the present world of technological development, static comparative
advantage is more viable and lasts longer if accompanied by dynamic
competitive advantage which requires inventions and innovations of the
products and production processes. Pakistan's textiles producers
hardly spared any funds for R&D and short-term ready cash was given
first preference at the cost of ignoring long-run fat dividends of
investment in quality and consumer preferences. Finally, as it presently
appears, Pakistan's textiles industry which cannot stand without
outright favours is going to be a laggard in the world market after 2004
when new trading order begins and MFA safety net is no longer available
to provide protection from strong competitors in its traditional
markets, EU and North America. Indeed, ruthless competition is likely to
be offered by countries such as China, India, Thailand, Malaysia, the
Philippines, Mexico and a number of others, especially in the crucial
area of higher value-added categories. In the present situation of low
competitive levels, market liberalisation in the next millennium
threatens to woo away even its established customer base. It will be
difficult to find even the cozy domestic arena in which a business might
hide. (18) Any domestic or international market large enough to be
attractive is going to be subject to the normal activities of world
producers looking for additional market share.
IV. IMPLICATIONS OF THE NEW ORDER FOR POLICY FORMULATION: EGGS AND
BUGS
Figure 2 summarises the restructuring challenge faced by the
textiles sector of Pakistan. There are three eggs of high potentiality
which need careful hatching for profitably sustainable reproduction of
the sector. Two bugs, on the other hand, frequently cause viral
infection as they quickly develop immunity from all 'vaccine'.
The best that could be done for viable existence is careful
administration of relevant 'medicine'. These eggs and bugs are
analysed in the following. Given the scope of this study, this
discussion is limited to certain key factors in each category.
1. The major challenge for Pakistan's T&C producers is to
enhance the competitiveness which is presently threatened by the
internal weaknesses. Monitoring for quality is the biggest challenge,
because quality may be multi-dimensional, unquantifiable in some
respects and may contain an irreducible subjective element [Hirschleifer
(1971)]. However, a market economy devises various institutions to cope
with the uncertainty about quality. These include brand names,
advertising, guarantees, warrantees, client relationships, service
contracts and, most importantly, effective information system. For
maintaining and enhancing competitive edge, the producers must develop
these institutions. Substantial investment in real time systems is
required for using information technology to respond to changing
customer preferences within the shortest possible time. Maintaining
competitive edge in the 21st century necessarily requires improved
relationship with the customer. Suppliers who can give rapid response to
satisfy their customers will invariably be the winners. On-line
facilities such as order status inquiry, delivery timetable, video
conferencing, new order booking and customer inquiries will help to
improve competitiveness. As a matter of fact, essential intelligence
about customers and other suppliers, specialised product knowledge and
updating operational information are increasingly becoming more and more
important inputs. These inputs must be produced, nurtured, managed,
preserved and, above all, effectively utilised.
[FIGURE 2 OMITTED]
A major weakness of many manufacturing units in Pakistan is that
they are family owned and managed. At the initial stages, when the
companies are small, such organisational structure may be efficient. But
it becomes increasingly inefficient as the companies grow. Currently,
another important challenge for the large textiles units of Pakistan
lies in the management ranks. Middle management in many of the units is
often thin, senior management overloaded and decision making too
centralised in the hands of a just few. The evolution from
"ownership control" to "management control" often
helps accelerate the change needed to keep pace with the dynamics of the
market. Producers in Pakistan able to change their existing management
culture accordingly will have a better chance of success in the next
century.
Since the 1970s, world cotton prices have been very volatile.
Trying to remain competitive in world market has already been a
challenge for Pakistan's cotton and textiles industries. Managing
price risk has been extremely difficult for both mills and cotton
growers. Future markets, used by many developed and developing
countries' competitors, are largely unfamiliar to Pakistan's
producers. If competitors are benefiting from the ability to manage
price risk, it will be difficult to survive without being involved. The
instrument of options provides an effective method of managing risk.
Apart from their unfamiliarity, Pakistan's cotton and textiles
producers have been hesitant to use options because of their high
perceived costs. However, options spreads can be used to reduce the
cost. (19)
Finally, unless the textiles industry learns to share profit with
shareholders, scrip prices are not going to improve. To achieve higher
capacity utilisation and quality improvement, industry must reinvest its
earnings in textiles for BMR rather than in other sectors.
2. Government policies which create an environment for industry to
invest in upgradtion/modernisation and expansion, especially with a view
to improve export focus, need to be formulated. Given that there is
greater value addition in fabrics and garments, the Government policy
must recognise the need for enhancing their finishing quality to the
market competitive levels. To accelerate the implementation of ISO 9000
and ISO 14000, the Government should provide consistent incentive
packages to the export oriented industries. Both the Government and
exporters are responsible for lower unit price realisation of
Pakistan's textiles exports in the past. The quota policy has
always been remained tilted towards volume exporters against those who
make efforts to improve quality standard. During the transition period,
the Government still has a good chance to encourage the exporters in
achieving higher unit price realisation through quality improvement.
A Textiles University, jointly funded by textiles producers and the
Government, needs to be established for upgrading technical knowledge
and efficiency at all levels of production. Further, a National Textiles
Commission, consisting of textiles producers and market experts, should
be set up to examine the most important global trends during the first
decade of the next century. Given that even the best financial and
business strategies get it wrong a lot of time, the commission should
particularly focus its attention on predicting when and how significant
changes might occur. Without such preparations, life for textiles
producers is not going to be easy in the coming years. (20)
3. Mutual consistency of fiscal, monetary and trade policies is the
most important prerequisite to increase the efficiency of all economic
sectors, including textiles. However, this is a necessary but not
sufficient condition. What is additionally required is a reduction in
bureaucracy which currently hampers efficiency at all levels.
Specifically important are custom clearance formalities and sales tax refunds (21) and duty drawbacks.
Further, road and rail transport corridors and networks must be
improved to reduce transport cost and lead time. Inadequate and
inefficient transport, storage facilities and telecommunication act
everywhere to limit the supply side response. Currently, these problems
abound in Pakistan. But the problem is especially serious at the
institutional level. Institutions and their rules have a very strong
bearing on an economy's efficiency and growth prospects, a point
which is made very forcefully and convincingly by North (1990). At the
institutional level, Pakistan lacks a transparent legal and regulatory
framework, including company and bankruptcy laws and investment codes.
As a matter of fact, the absence of an effective institutional network
which promotes entrepreneurial, managerial, technical and marketing
skills has constrained to a large extent the value addition growth in
Pakistan's T&C sector.
4. This category specifically includes: addressing the problem of
regional and financial instability as a result of Pakistan having gone
nuclear; efforts to restore the international economic and political
relations; adjusting the value of Pakistani Rupee in relation to the
currencies of other developing countries' competitors; addressing
the anti-dumping duties on a tripartite base which requires dialogue
between producers' representatives, Pakistan Government and duty
imposing importing countries. (22)
5. This includes, first of all, full implementation of WTO
agreements by all signatories. Even when this prerequisite is met, there
are certain crucial factors which are going to be beyond control of
Pakistan's and other developing countries' textiles producers.
Firstly, even when the Uruguay Round trade liberalisation agreements are
fully implemented, trade in T&C would still be highly subject to
both direct and "indirect" non-quota barriers. It appears
that, apart from post-Uruguay Round tariff peaks which are going to
escalate with the level of product's processing, (23) restrictive
measures such as anti-dumping actions are going to be increasingly used
to restrict imports from developing countries. The number of
anti-dumping actions reported to the GATT Secretariat shows a steady
rise since 1990 [GATT (1994)]. Further, integration of the T&C
sector under GATT system may be replaced by another set of restrictive
practices in the next round of trade talks. There are sound reasons
behind author's apprehension that extraneous issues, such as
environment, social concern and ambiguous labour standards, will be
played up by the developed countries in the next round of trade talks to
the extent of achieving explicit deliberations. (24)
Secondly, another challenge is the risk of being left out of
proliferating free trade areas and custom unions. Particularly, NAFTA
and EU are continuously growing both in width and depth and now cover
virtually all major markets of Pakistan's T&C exporters. The
spokespersons of NAFTA and EU often attempt to camouflage their global
trade liberalisation rhetoric by arguing that both developing countries
and third countries would benefit from the trade-creating effects of
these regional arrangements materialised into the stimulus to growth and
thus import demand in the member countries. Although to assess the
magnitude and spread of trade diverting effects of NAFI'A and EU is
beyond the scope of this study, it could be argued that there are
reasons to think that diversion effects in T&C will be enormous.
(25) This could further increase the degree of marginalisation of
Pakistan's T&C exporters who have become accustomed to the
protection provided by the quota regime. Thirdly, it is expected that
over the next decade the further introduction of micro-controllers (the
white-collar micro-processor equivalent of the blue-collar) in textiles
machinery will facilitate the shift of T&C manufacturing back to the
developed countries [Mello (1997)]. Already, with open-end spinning
techniques, shuttle-less looms, multi-phase looms, double-knitting
machines, non-woven fabrics and programmed pattern printing comparative
advantage seems to be shifting back to developed countries.
Finally, the future evolution of the five most affected countries,
South Korea, Malaysia, Thailand, Indonesia and the Philippines, by the
on going "Asian crisis" is still uncertain. These SEA
countries, including Taiwan and China, are strong competitors of
Pakistan's T&C exports. Although it is still not clear how the
slump in the world economy and the on going "Asian crisis"
will effect productivity and demand globally, but companies that emerge
survivors from the "Asian crisis" will be those that have the
management who understands the stakes and is skilled enough to take the
calculated risk.
CONCLUSION
Economic projections about the benefits in the next millennium to
developing countries from the Uruguay Round generally and from the
abolition of MFA specifically should not simply reassure and lull
textiles producers and policy makers about a future with many
uncertainties. Trade and trade liberalisation do not produce wealth and
jobs; they only help in the distribution of demand and jobs.
Pakistan's T&C industry faces in the next millennium both great
opportunity and even a greater threat globally for it to survive and
grow. Many of the changes that will occur are outside the control of
Pakistan and her textiles producers. It is the responsibility of
Pakistan's Government to assist the producers in their effort to
prepare themselves for the looming challenge by keeping pace with the
market dictates and dynamics. Although Pakistan needs quantum leap, it
may have better chances of retaining and eventually increasing its
market share even if it succeeds in achieving marginal increases in
textiles quality and productivity every year during the transitory
period. As the world economy becomes increasingly integrated, external
influences have an ever-greater impact on countries' domestic
economies. In reality, the many external and domestic factors that will
determine Pakistan's T&C industry's performance in the
world market do not operate independently. There is a complex
interaction, both positive and negative: a factor in one category can
interact with others in the same category, and developments in external
factors can improve or worsen the effects of domestic factors and vice
versa.
Tariff escalation in specific sectors, including T&C, and other
non-quota import barriers will continue to be a feature of developed
countries' trade practices in the post-Uruguay Round world of the
next century. Given all these challenges, global business success will
more likely happen to those who earn it, not to those who fall into it.
The competition is getting increasingly fierce and the only selling
point is quality at competitive price.
Comments
The paper deals with the challenges posed by the post-MFA scenario
of the Uruguay Round agreements, specifically under the Agreement on
Textile and Clothings as it will affect Pakistan's textile and
clothing industry and its exports.
Notwithstanding the relevance of the paper for Pakistan's
textile sector, the main weakness of the paper arises from its
lopsidedness. About one third of the paper simply highlights the
importance of the textile and clothing sector for Pakistan which could
be taken for granted.
The other weakness of the paper emerges from the sketchy treatment
to the various provisions of Agreement on Textile and Clothings (ATC) of
Uruguay Round. If the author had critically examined the following three
important aspects of ATC in the context of the present conditions of the
textile and clothing industry of Pakistan, the usefulness of the paper
would have been quite significant:
(a) The effect of "growth on growth rates" on the
Pakistan textile quota's during the transitional period
(1995-2004);
(b) The actual mode of integration of the textile and clothing
adopted by the major textile importing countries like US, EU and Japan.
(c) The transitional safeguard provisions of ATC (article no. 4.2).
The paper does not look into the major problems and ills which
plague the textile and clothing sector of Pakistan and ignores the fact
that a large portion of the textile sector is sick due to various
financial and structural reasons. This aspect has to be examined
carefully for fully assessing the challenges posed by post MFA period.
The paper refers to the absence of comparative advantage of
Pakistan textile and clothing sector in relation to those of India and
China. However, the author fails to explain the underlying causes for
Pakistan's absence of comparative advantage. One such factor was
highlighted in a study by Riordan and Srinivason (1996) titled Pakistan
International Linkages, Evolution and Prospects. "According to
these authors Pakistan's labour is three time expensive than that
of India". This statement appears to be somewhat exaggerated.
However the author could undertake some basic research to analyse the
basic factors eroding Pakistan's comparative advantage compared to
other textile exporting countries. The author could very well develop
some textile production functions, textile export functions, textile
demand functions to precisely identify the underlying factors affecting
the exportable surplus of textile sector in different categories. In
this regard the reports by All Pakistan Textile Manufacturers
Association (APTMA) for the recent years clearly highlight some of the
major factors effecting the textile productivity and competitiveness.
On the issue of competitiveness, the analysis provided by Michael
E. Porter in his extremely relevant book: "The Competitive
Advantage of Nations" is very much relevant for Pakistan's
textile sector. Porter's theory suggests four distinct stages of
national competitive development, factor-driven, investment-driven,
innovation-driven and wealth-driven. The first three stages are
"normally associated with progressively rising economic
prosperity" whereas the fourth stages is one of drift and decline.
Porter has pointed out: "These stages though broad schematics
provide one way of understanding how economies develop, the
characteristic problems faced by a nation's firms at different
points in time, and forces that propel the economy to advance or cause
it to falter". The basic problem that Ms. Naheed's paper is
that it does not provide any clear and well-defined diagnosis of factors
which have affected the productivity and competitiveness of
Pakistan's textile sector in relation to other major textile
exporting countries.
This brings us to the five point agenda proposed by the author for
preparing Pakistan's textile and clothing sector to the post MFA
challenges. The five points are as following:
1. Domestic factors that are within the control of producers;
2. Domestic factors that are within the control of producers, but
may require government support;
3. Domestic factors that are purely under government control;
4. External factors that could partially effected by government
policy;
5. Factors that are purely external in nature.
The various measures proposed under the five points agenda
'are quite useful for re-structuring the textile sector. However
this agenda suffers from its failure to appreciate the fundamental
problems of textile sector namely the out-dated technology deployed in
the textile and clothing sector of Pakistan. The paper over-emphasises
the factors such as forms of customer focus, information collection and
management as well as infrastructure development and institutional
building. In this regard the factors like brand names, advertisement,
guarantees and warranties, client relationship, service contracts and
role of one line facilities such as order status inquiry, delivery time
table, video conferencing, new order book, customers quarries and
intelligence have been given unwarranted importance.
With regard to institution building, the author puts forward the
proposals for setting up a National Textile Commission, the Textile
University and has implicitly supported the idea of setting a Ministry
of Textile. In my view these measures are not pivotal at the current
stage because the structural problems of Pakistan textile and clothing
industry are related to technological innovations and producers
commitments for technological improvements in this important sector.
These factors are not highlighted by the author to the desirable extent.
The challenges faced by the textile sector of Pakistan beyond 2004
are indeed complex and have to be analysed in greater micro-level
details which should focus on different categories of Pakistan's
exports in the firm-specific and market-specific environment.
Aqdas Ali Kazmi
Planning and Development Division, Government of Pakistan,
Islamabad.
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WTO (1996) Participation of Developing Countries in World Trade.
Committee on Trade and Development. August.
WTO (n.d.) The Agreement on Textiles and Clothing. (Text available
on WTO Website).
(1) MFA is an International Commodity Agreement (ICA) among over 50
producing and consuming countries. It specifies a maximum amount of
cotton, wool and synthetic fibres that each exporting country may ship
to each importing country. In addition, the US and EU have bilateral
agreements with many supplying countries in which the latter undertake
to further limit their textiles exports to each of the two markets. In
particular, strict limitations apply to the annual growth rate of
imports. Although the MFA text does not limit its application to
developing countries and the criterion for intervention is market
'disruption', only these countries have been subjected to it
and the criterion has come to imply 'low-cost' producers [see
Raffaelli (1990)]. It is truly amazing that MFA, a major departure from
basic GATT rules, particularly the principle of non-discrimination
embodied in MFN clause, has lasted since 1974 and the Uruguay Round has
given it another ten years to be phased out.
(2) MFA coverage of trade in textiles is going to be removed in
four very unequal stages. The process is based on integration of the
product according to relative trade shares represented by import level
during 1990. The first phase was due to be completed by the end of 1994,
covering the items which accounted for at least 16 percent of 1990
imports. The second phase, adding a minimum of 17 percent, was to be
completed by the end of 1997. An additional 18 percent is to be
integrated by the end of 2001. The remaining products need not be
integrated, until the terminus, 1st January 2005, is reached (see WTO,
"Agreement on Textiles and Clothing").
(3) China and Taiwan were not MFA signatories. But their T&C
exports to EU markets and US have also been subjected to the same quota
regime.
(4) The country's share of world production in both categories
is 7.23 percent and 6.12 percent respectively [see 'Textile Exports
May Miss Target', Pakistan and Gulf Economist (PAGE), November 30th
1996].
(5) It must be added here that the financial crisis in some Asian
countries had only a modest impact on average global trade growth in
1997, both in value and volume terms [see WTO (1996)].
(6) As a matter of fact, under the Bilateral Textiles Agreement
with USA, Pakistan enjoys one of the highest growth rates on textile
quotas. The agreed principal of growth on growth under the Uruguay Round
will enable Pakistan to have quotas almost doubled at the end of 2004
[see Kazmi (1995)].
(7) While Pakistan gets only US$2.13 per kg of T&C exports into
Japan, Korea and China get US$18.97 and US$13.4 respectively [see Khan
(1995)].
(8) Finished garments bring on average US$5 per pound as compared
to an average of US$0.70, US$1.40 and US$2 in case of raw cotton, cotton
yarn and cotton fabrics respectively (see 'Textile Industry
Review', AKD Research, October 23 1998).
(9) Pakistan constitutes approximately 25 percent of world coarse
yarn production. Therefore, particularly due to overemphasis on yam
production, Pakistan is the largest yam exporter in the world (ibid).
(10) Ready made garments and knitwear products accounted for more
than 70 percent of the total foreign exchange earnings of Bangladesh in
1997 [see Pakistan Textile Journal, August (1998)]. Further, It should
be added that Bangladesh with a high share of manufactures in its total
merchandise exports (83 percent in 1994), is figured among those traders
which expanded their exports faster than world trade through 1985-94
[see WTO (1996)].
(11) Pakistan, owing to its true comparative advantage in T&C,
could have immensely benefited by MFA restrictions on large suppliers.
But, on the contrary, MFA safety net appears to have hindered her
production and export of high quality and high value-added products.
Pakistan enjoys large quantities in upstream categories. Not only that
these products have low value addition, the allocation of quota on the
basis of quantity exported rather than on price realisation prompted
many producers to sell low quality in large volumes at lower prices.
(12) The favours include availability of cotton at prices 30
percent below the international level, duty free import of plant and
machinery, financing at lower interest rates and complete ban on import
of textile products into the country. Had this kind of environment
available to any other industry, perhaps it would have grown to any
imaginable size.
(13) Apart from the Government policy, the spinners, too, are
responsible for the problems the sector is now facing. The public
limited companies of this sector not only lent huge amounts to associate
private limited companies, they also heavily invested in the equities of
viable companies in other sectors of the economy. Such practices forced
the spinning units to avail credit from the financial sector to the
maximum borrowing limit.
(14) The three major composite units on the KSE experienced a
drastic decline in aggregate Earning Per Share (EPS) from Rs 3.66 in
1994 to Rs 0.5 in 1995, before recovering to Rs 1.54 in 1996 (see
Pakistan Compendium, January 1998).
(15) The market value of shares of 220 companies on the KSE is
estimated around Rs 20 billion, compared to the investment which is
estimated around Rs 50 billion at face value rate. But the overall value
of these units may be around Rs 80 billion (ibid).
(16) The cotton yield in Pakistan is 597 kg per hectare as against
1720 in Israel, 1280 in Australia and 1128 in Turkey. According to
experts, the country can achieve 20 million bales from the existing area
under cultivation through better crop management. Being an agriculture
based economy and cotton being one of the major crops, 1.5m bales
variation in cotton production effects the GDP growth, according to one
estimate, by 1 percent (see 'Textile Industry Review', AKD
Research, October 23 1998).
(17) The value growth rate which exceeds the volume growth rate
during the last sub-period, 1990-96, has not proved to be sustainable:
the average per kg unit price of cotton yarn during 1997-98 was $2.52
against $2.78 and $2.87 during 1996-97 and 1995-96 (see Pakistan Textile
Journal, August 1998).
(18) Pakistan's T&C producers must take into account that
Article 6 and 7 of ATC embody obligations for both importing and the
exporting countries of MFA, committing Pakistan to remove QRs and
prohibitions on the import of T&C products (see WTO, "Agreement
on Textiles and Clothing").
(19) For example, protecting against a downward move in prices
might cost 4 cents for protection from the current price level. If the
purchaser of the options wants to protect against a price decline of 6-9
cents, but is willing to risk prices falling even lower, he could sell a
cheaper PUT against his previous long PUT. This might reduce his cost to
only one cent, while protecting him against the first 6-9 cents of price
decline [see Miller and VanHoose (1993)].
(20) There are even suggestions for 'Ministry of
Textiles'. Currently, day to day affairs of the textiles sector are
dealt by different ministries, including Ministry of Commerce, Ministry
of Finance and some line departments. The creation of 'Ministry of
Finance' can provide a 'One Window Operation' facility
and will certainly improve the performance. Pakistan's two major
South Asian competitors, India and Bangladesh, already have Ministry of
Textiles in operation.
(21) The Pakistan Government has imposed sales tax on cotton at
ginned stage. Since more than 90 percent of the cotton either in raw
form or in the shape of yam, fabric or ready made garments is exported,
it means that the tax paid has to be refunded. On the one hand, net
result of this futile exercise is the administrative cost for collection
and refund of the tax, on the other it further adds to the liquidity
problem of the textiles sector due to delays in settlement of claims.
(22) Pakistan has experienced repeated imposition of provisional
anti-dumping duties on unbleached 100 percent cotton. During 1997, the
EU imposed anti-dumping duties on the imports of unbleached cotton
fabric from Pakistan. The provisional penalty 32.5 percent for
non-cooperative companies, firms which did not provide the data of their
production and sales costs as required by EU, was later reduced to a
definitive 11.1 percent, and the provisional duty of 19.3 percent was
lowered to a definitive 10.1 percent on the weighted average for the
cooperative companies (See 'Anti-dumping Duty on Gray Cloth',
PAGE August 10-16 1998). Presently, the Ministry of Commerce and the
Ministry of Law do not have experts to defend Pakistani exporter against
dumping allegations. The Government and APTMA are forced to hire foreign
experts and pay them fees in foreign exchange. It may not be out of
context to mention here that the Ministry of Commerce does not even have
people for quota negotiations. For a long time, negotiations were
conducted by a chartered accountant who had worked as consultant to the
Ministry. Even the Textiles Quota Management Directorate does not have
the experts in question and had re-employed one of past directors on
contract basis after his retirement. The last director general until
1996 was from the DMG group. For decades, the Export Promotion Bureau
has been headed by people from civil services groups. Since Pakistan is
one of the ten members of WTO's Textiles Monitoring Body (TMB) to
supervise the second stage, 1998-2001, implementation of ATC, now it has
a good opportunity to do away with the shortcomings and defend the
interests of its textiles producers during the transition period and
beyond.
(23) For details on post-Uruguay Round tariff escalation, see GATT
1994. For the implications of tariff escalation for developing
countries' exports, [see World Bank (1996)].
(24) As a matter of fact, implicit ruling on these subjects is
already provided by the Uruguay Round. On the one hand the Agreement
seeks to ensure that technical barriers do not restrict trade, on the
other it does recognise the right of countries to protect human, animal
and plant life and environment. The Agreement clearly establishes that
countries should not be prevented from ensuring that their desired
standards meet the levels they consider appropriate.
(25) The anti-dumping duty imposed by the EU, during 1997, on the
imports of unbleached cotton fabric from Pakistan was triggered by the
campaign jointly launched by the textiles producers in Greece, Spain,
Portugal, France and Italy, because the prices of unbleached cloth they
produce were incompetitive, making them unable to capture their own
market. MFA dates back to the times when EU was an intermediate,
half-functioning common market and the poor relations, Greece, Spain and
Portugal, were not even considered to be qualified for its membership.
Once MFA's binding obligation is over, these countries may resort
to any measures to protect the interests of their textiles producers
within the wide, and continuously expanding, EU market.
Naheed Zia Khan teaches Economics at Islamia University,
Bahawalpur.
Table 1
Share of Textiles Industry in Pakistan's Manufacturing Sector
and Exports
(Percentage Annual Average in 1986-90)
Manufacturing Sector
Indirect
Export Earnings * Value-added Employment Investment Taxes
65.44 20.64 37.00 21.60 8.00
Source: For manufacturing sector, Pakistan Economic Survey 1997-98,
Table 4.3, 4.4 and 4.5. For exports, Kazmi (1995), Table III.
* Includes export earnings of raw cotton, cotton yarn, cotton cloth,
made-ups of textiles, ready made garments, knitwear, synthetic
textiles, carpet and rugs and tents and canvas.
Table 2
MFA Quota of Selected Asian Exporters in the EU Market *
Allotment (000 Tonnes) and Utilisation (Percentage)
Category Pakistan India Thailand Indonesia
Allotment 86 73 50 8
Utilisation 90.2 82.5 65.3 86.8
Category Malaysia South Korea Taiwan China
Allotment 20 102 63 71
Utilisation 51.3 81.0 72.2 74.4
Source: Devenport and Page (1992), Table 3.1.
* Based on 1988 imports.
Table 3
Merchandise Exports Value of Selected Asian Economies
% Share in Annual Percentage
World Trade Change
Region/Country 1980 1996 1995 1996 1997
Asia 15.01 27.63 18 1 5
Pakistan 0.13 0.18 9 17 -6
India 0.42 0.62 23 7 3
Thailand 0.32 1.05 26 -1 3
Indonesia 1.06 0.94 13 10 7
Malaysia 0.64 1.47 26 5 1
South Korea 0.86 2.45 30 6 5
Taiwan 0.97 2.19 20 6 5
China 0.89 2.85 23 2 21
Source: World Trade Organisation.
Table 4
Share of Cotton and Textiles in Export Earnings
Product Category 1970-79 1980-89 1990-96 1970-96
(a) % Share in Foreign Exchange Earnings of Six Product Categories
1. Raw Cotton 25.50 35.16 11.73 25.50
2. Cotton Waste 0.86 0.58 1.81 1.00
3. Cotton Yarn 35.26 26.30 41.90 33.66
4. Cotton Thread 1.09 0.64 0.11 0.67
5. Cotton Cloth 35.76 28.89 29.19 31.51
6. Synthetic Textiles 1.51 8.42 15.24 7.62
Total (1+2+3+4+5+6) 100 100 100 100
(b) % Share of Total Export Earnings: Six Product Categories
Product Category 1970-79 1980-89 1990-96 1970-96
1. Raw Cotton 9.19 12.32 4.54 9.14
2. Cotton Waste 0.32 0.20 0.71 0.38
3. Cotton Yarn 12.33 9.12 16.36 12.19
4. Cotton Thread 0.36 0.21 0.04 0.23
5. Cotton Cloth 12.07 9.81 11.45 11.06
6. Synthetic Textiles 0.51 2.97 5.96 2.83
Total (1+2+3+4+5+6) 34.79 34.62 39.02 35.82
(c) % Share of Total Export Earnings: Nine Product Categories
Product Category 1978-83 1984-89 1990-94 1978-94
1. Raw Cotton 11.12 13.00 5.66 10.21
2. Cotton Yarn 8.68 11.03 17.61 12.13
3. Cotton Cloth 11.03 10.96 11.78 11.22
4. Ready Made 3.10 7.09 8.60 6.13
5. Made-ups of Textiles 2.71 6.35 8.15 5.60
6. Knitwear 0.93 2.45 6.28 3.04
7. Tents and Canvas 2.20 1.43 0.73 1.43
8. Carpets and Rugs 8.18 5.50 3.27 5.79
9. Synthetic Textiles 2.57 3.14 6.58 3.96
Total (1+2+3+4+5+6+7+8+9) 50.54 60.86 68.6 59.51
Source: (a) and (b) are computed from the raw data for cotton and
textiles categories and for total exports taken from Economic
Survey 1997-98 and International Financial Statistics of the IMF
respectively. For ratios listed in (c) raw data were taken from
Kazmi (1995), Table 3.
Table 5
Debt/Equity Ratio of Pakistan's Textiles Industry *
Spinning Units Composite Units Weaving Units Total Units
(132) (31) (18) (181)
1994-95 1995-96 1994-95 1995-96 1994-95 1995-96 1994-95 1995-96
72:28 76:24 56:44 54:46 78:22 78:22 66:24 68:32
Source: All Pakistan Textiles Mills Association (APTMA).
* APTMA members only.
Table 6
Market Worth and Dividend Position of Pakistan's Textiles Industry
Selling
No. of Below Cash Dividend Paid
Listed Face
Sector Units Value 1991 1992 1993 1994
Spinning 159 111 11 44 24 19
Weaving 29 25 1 2 2 1
Composite 50 26 12 9 7 6
Source: APTMA.
Table 7
Growth Rates of Raw Cotton and Textiles Exports of Pakistan *
Product Category 1970-79 1980-89 1990-96 1970-96
(a) Low and Medium Value-added Categories
a (V) Raw Cotton -5.58 4.80 -24.38 1.50
(Q) -10.14 14.79 -24.16 4.29
b (V) Cotton Waste -18.70 18.27 5.97 9.69
(Q) -26.28 27.99 9.18 11.34
C (V) Cotton Yarn 2.42 9.15 5.86 7.028
(Q) -3.75 13.52 4.63 8.44
d (V) Cotton Thread 6.24 -20.14 -15.55 -7.43
(Q) -1.80 -17.29 -15.02 -5.75
e (V) Cotton Cloth 9.07 2.85 9.73 5.49
(Q) 4.73 5.65 3.04 5.50
f (V) Synthetic Textiles 4.45 18.05 10.99 20.45
(Q) 3.65 40.10 8.63 22.13
Total (V) (a+b+c+d+e+f) 2.99 5.32 5.11 6.24
Exports (Value) 9.25 2.78 4.41 5.80
(b) High Value Added Product Categories (Value)
Product Category 1978-83 1984-89 1990-94 1978-94
Knitwear 20.52 26.69 13.74 23.68
Madeup of Textiles 32.13 21.79 5.95 17.03
Readv Made Garments 17.28 18.37 8.50 15.28
Source: Growth rates in (a) are computed from the raw data for cotton
and textiles categories and for total exports taken from Pakistan
Economic Survey 1997-98 and International Financial Statistics of
the IMF respectively. For Growth Rates listed in (b), raw data were
taken from Kazmi (1995), Table III.
* Percent annual compound growth rates estimated at constant market
price of the United States, the base year is 1990.