摘要:When wind-wave generated on deep water propagates into shallow water they will be transformed into several processes such as refraction, shoaling, reflection, diffraction, and finally collapsing. This research has objective to analyze the pattern of wave transformation which propagate into Bau-Bau coastal waters by using RCPWave Model as a numerical model solution to predict wave condition within the surf zone. The model showed that the wave transformation at Bau-Bau Coastal waters was influenced by coastal morphology and characteristic that was more open to the west (to the open sea) than to the east coast (bordered by Buton Strait). Wave transformation occurred from both sides, either from west or east side. When wave were broken at the western coast the wave high from west and east were 1.9 m and 0.5 respectively. At the eastern coast were 1.0 m and 0.7 m. The highest wave high occurred at head land or peninsula.
其他摘要:Gelombang yang dibangkitkan oleh angin yang merambat dari perairan dalam menuju perairan dangkal (pantai) mengalami transformasi (perubahan) dari sifat dan parameter gelombang seperti proses refraksi, shoaling, refleksi, difraksi sampai terjadi pecah. Pen