'Northwest' wines no longer limited

As the Northwest wine industry continues to find its heartbeat and niche in the world, winemakers are experimenting with different grapes and clones, trying to discover what will grow well given our climate, soil, and temperatures.

Washington and Oregon are relatively young wine regions, so the choices were simple when I first started collecting wine - Washington cabernet sauvignon, merlot, chardonnay and Riesling and Oregon Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris. (Syrah is a recent explosion on the wine market). These were the varietals that seem to grow the best in the region after many trials with various grape plants.

Not so today. Shelves at wine shops and grocery stores are lined up with Washington and Oregon Tempranillo, Cabernet Franc, Sangiovese, Nebbiolo, Barbera, Viognier, Grenache, Malbec, Muller Thurgau, Muscat Canelli, Sauvignon Blanc, Aligote and Madeleine Angevine.

I recently tasted a number of odd varietals not known as "Northwest" wines, and I found many to be in the young stages of development. In other words, winemakers are making some pleasant wines from these grapes, but still have work to do in the vineyards to find the perfect site with the right grape clone, the correct amount of sunshine or coolness and the right soils to create a perfect balance in the glass.

However, there are many exceptions and I urge wine appreciators to give the new wines a try because they are getting better and better, year after year.

Cabernet Franc: This is one of the five major grapes of Frances's Bordeaux region and often used as a blending wine. However, the grape is hearty in cold weather and has found a home in Washington and Oregon with a unique violet aroma and slightly spicy flavor. Several favorites tasted recently include Barrister Winery (in Spokane), Arbor Crest (Spokane) Walla Walla Vintners and Abacela (Roseberg, Ore.).

Sangiovese: This red wine is the top grape grown in Italy and is the predominant grape in Chianti and Brunello di Montalcino. It tends to be a fruity wine that is slightly floral with occasional strawberry notes in the nose. The best I've tried recently include Leonetti, Andrew Will, Walla Walla Vintners, Zefina and Cuneo (from Oregon).

Viognier: This is a white wine alternative to over-oaked Chardonnay. It is generally dry, with apricots, orange blossom and anise in the nose and mouth. This wine is often used as a blend with Syrah to give it a floral, perfume in the nose. It is difficult to grow, but challenging for winemakers. Recent tastes include Griffin Creek and Dobbes Family Estate (Oregon), Hogue Genesis and Cougar Crest (Walla Walla) and McCrea (my favorite). Cayuse also has a pretty Viognier.

Tempranillo: This is an up-and-coming grape in the Northwest, although most people may know it from Spanish wines in the Rioja area of Spain. Several wineries in Walla Walla are working with Tempranillo to blend with other grapes, and as a single varietal. Abacela Winery in Oregon has made this wine the longest and has a reserve Tempranillo that is to die for.

Zinfandel: This grape is not widely planted in the Northwest because it needs so much heat to ripen. California is the zinfandel capital, although several Northwest winemakers are making a great stab at it. This can be a big, bodacious and bawdy wine - creating purple teeth (a badge of honor for zin drinkers). MaryHill Winery near the Columbia River is making a great zinfandel to rival its southern neighbors.

Other odds and ends include: Colvin's Carmenere (A Bordeaux blend rarely made in the United States) Woodward Canyon's Barbera, McCrea Cellars Counoise and Mourvedre (both French blending grapes), Wilridge Nebbiolo (Washington) and Cuneo (Oregon) Nebbiolo and Woodward Canyon's Dolcetto.

There are many other varietals gaining attention in the Northwest, albeit small vineyard patches. Find a few of the same varietal and blind taste them to find your favorite.

GOOD-BYE STEVE BURNS

Steve Burns, the executive director of the Washington Wine Commission, credited with helping the wine industry explosion in the state, is leaving the commission to begin his own consulting business in Sonoma, California.

During the last eight years, Burns lead the wine industry through a major growth spurt. He organized the marketing of Washington wines in Europe and Japan and helped to successfully launch Taste Washington throughout Washington State, San Francisco, New York and Europe.

The wine industry owes a debt of gratitude to Steve - he will be missed. Efforts are underway for a national recruitment to fill the position.

VINEYARD TOUR

Columbia Crest winery is offering a series of guided vineyard tours of the estate vineyards of Columbia Crest from 10 am to noon Saturday, July 17 and August 22. Cost is $15 for those 21 or older.

The tour highlights the cycle of the grape, terroir and viticultural practices of Washington. Discussions focus on the history of the grape industry, changes in growing practices and how grapes are selected. The session is one hour, with a formal tasting to follow.

Columbia Crest Winery is located 26 miles south of Prosser on Highway 221. For more information or registration call (888) 309- 9463.

NEW WEB SITE FOR YAKIMA VALLEY WINERIES

Wine Yakima Valley, an association of Yakima Valley wineries and wine grape growers, has launched a new website, www.wineyakimavalley.org. The site will help consumers find information about wineries and wine grape growers in the Yakima Valley.

It also offers a winery map and a MapQuest feature so travelers can download maps and driving directions to any winery on the site. Information is available on the region, participating hotels and restaurants, recreation activities and area attractions. For more information, call (800) 258-7270.

TASTE WASHINGTON SELLS OUT

Taste Washington Spokane, held at the Davenport Hotel on June 13, was a sellout for the first time in three years.

The Washington Wine Commission is considering expanding the event to bring in even more wineries and restaurants. About 60 wineries from around the state and nearly 30 restaurants matched food and wine to highlight the versatility of Washington wines.

"I think this clearly shows that interest in Washington wines continues to grow," said Jamie Peha, organizer from the wine commission. "People love coming to the Davenport and I think we can arrange to have 100 wineries at next year's event."

More than $9,000 was raised to benefit the Washington State University Viticulture and Enology Program and the WSU School of Hospitality Business Management. Profits from ticket sales after expenses are earmarked for the Davenport Arts Board and raffle sales benefit the Washington Wine Education Foundation.

PEND D'OREILLE WINERY AWARDS

Sandpoint's Pend d'Oreille Winery recently won gold medals for its Huckleberry Blush and 2002 Pinot Gris at the Northwest Wine Summit. The winery's Huckleberry Blush also was given the Best in Idaho Award. The winery also was awarded silver medals for its 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon and 2002 Bistro Blanc Chardonnay, and bronze medals for its 2001 Merlot, 2002 Syrah and 2002 Bistro Rouge, CMS. For more information call the winery at (208) 265-8545.

Christina Kelly writes a monthly wine column for The Spokesman- Review. She can be reached at winewriter@comcast.net.

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