A matter of taste; Some of the region's best wines share the

Christina Kelly Special to The Spokesman-Review

If you've ever watched a child in a candy store - eyeing colorful, mouth-watering, lip-smacking confections - you will have a good idea of what adults will be doing when they attend the annual Taste Washington event this month at the Davenport Hotel.

The third-annual wine and food extravaganza can turn adults into kids at a chocolate factory. More than 60 Washington state wineries will be paired with 27 regional restaurants to showcase the state's wines and the foods that love those wines. Sponsored by the Washington Wine Commission, Taste Washington has already held tastings in Seattle, the Tri-Cities, San Francisco and New York. The Spokane wine tasting and food pairing is the last U.S. stop before several European engagements.

"This is really an opportunity for the region - Spokane, Northern Idaho and Western Montana - to sample so many Washington wines in one place," said Stacie Jacob, Washington Wine Commission spokeswoman. "This event came to Spokane because of the dedication of local winemakers to showcase what they produce, alongside other Washington wines."

Kristina van Loben Sels, winemaker for Spokane's Arbor Crest Winery, said she and her husband Jim worked hard to bring the wine showcase to the Lilac City. The couple realized such an event would highlight the best of Washington wines, showcase the creativity of regional chefs, emphasize the importance of agriculture and continue to promote tourism in Spokane.

"All of this happens in one great event at one fabulous place - the Davenport Hotel," said van Loben Sels. "In that setting, those interested in wine have the opportunity to talk with the winemakers and vice versa. It's the time to ask questions among people who are very knowledgeable about wine and food."

Imagine sampling beef short ribs coated in a huckleberry sauce, paired with the dark, rich aromas of cherries and cassis and vanilla undertones found in Barnard Griffin Winery's recent Cabernet Sauvignon. Brix Restaurant, located in Coeur d'Alene, will feature that pairing for Taste Washington.

Or think about a rich chocolate and Grand Marnier baklava paired with L'Ecole Winery's recent Merlot, which exhibits cedary blackberry fruit and elegance in the glass, with long, lingering mocha and vanilla flavors in the finish. Niko's in downtown Spokane, is paired with L'Ecole, Arbor Crest and Cave B Winery.

Charlie Hoppes, winemaker for his newer label, Fedelitas, said he is trying to build a brand name with his Meritage (Bordeaux blend), Syrah and red table wine. Coming to Taste Washington in Spokane is a big deal to a small producer like Fedelitas.

"We're building a wine brand for consumers and restaurants," said Hoppes, who makes his wines in Kennewick. "Spokane and the region are a great wine market - great restaurants and lots of people who buy and collect wine. You also have terrific places like Coeur d'Alene, with great wine shops and restaurants.

"This is a very important market for me to expose my wines and I am very happy to be included."

Tom Hedges, owner of Hedges Cellars and member of the Washington Wine Commission, said one of the goals for the organization is to increase the purchase of Washington wines by Washington consumers. Only about 20 percent of the wines consumed in Washington come from the state, he said.

"Our goal is to increase the purchase of state wines, and events such as this are one of the best ways to begin that goal," Hedges said.

Local restaurant chefs say they look forward to the event in order to showcase the recipes created to complement their wine partners. The chefs generally know a month or more in advance which wines they will pair with, and many experiment with the wine and food to bring out complementary flavors of the wine and the food.

In addition to offering tastings of new wines and dishes prepared by area restaurants, Taste Washington will hold a silent auction, featuring large format (magnum) Washington wines. Proceeds for the auction benefit the Washington State University Viticulture and Enology program and the WSU School of Hospitality Business Management. Ticket sales to the Taste also benefit the Davenport District Arts Board.

SOME PRACTICAL TIPS FOR TASTING 60 WINES

If you have never been to a large wine tasting, there are some common-sense rules you should think about. The biggest mistake people make is trying to taste all 60-plus wines and swallowing every last drop. By the time you get to the fifth winery, you might as well comment that the wine tastes "red" or "white," because you won't taste much of anything if you are consuming all the wine.

Best bet is to look at the list of wineries and choose the ones you would like to sample. Taste Washington provides a sampling glass at the entrance to the event. Circle the wineries that are a must for you to try. Just because you have not heard of the winery does not mean the wine is mediocre. Many small producers craft wonderful, hand- made wines.

Each winery provides small pours for tasting. Initially, swirl the wine in your glass, looking at the color and the way the wine coats the glass - does it look thin or thick? Smell the wine after swirling in your glass - Taste Washington will provide small flavor wheels to help you identify certain smells typically found in Washington grapes.

Finally, taste the wine, allowing it to coat your tongue. Don't swallow. The best way to participate in a large tasting is to spit out the small sample and suck in air to float across your tastebuds and allow them to tell to your brain what you just tasted.

Make the rounds doing this, noting your favorites. Then, when you've decided which ones you would actually like to drink, go back to that winery after you've had a chance to taste and spit. This is also a great time to sample the foods with the wine and see how well the flavors blend and complement each other.

If you were raised to believe that spitting is an ugly behavior, it's a chance to shed some of that upbringing. If spitting into a dump bucket makes you uncomfortable, take a paper or plastic cup with you, spit in your cup, and then pour into the dump buckets. It may sound unseemly, but it is much better than trying to drink too many wines and perhaps missing the wine gem of the night because your taste buds are numb.

All in all, Taste Washington provides a fine opportunity to sample wine and food, socialize with the winemakers, and, perhaps, meet other wine lovers who might live just down the road from you.

To help you get started, check out some of the recipes being served at Taste Washington, along with the wines to complement the food:

This dish from chef Joe McCarthy at Brix Restaurant in Coeur d'Alene can be paired with cabernet sauvignon from Barnard Griffin, Saint Laurent or Claar Cellars, Columbia Valley.

HUCKLEBERRY-BRAISED BEEF SHORT RIBS

From Brix Restaurant, Coeur d'Alene

5 pounds beef short ribs

Salt and pepper, to taste

1 cup cabernet sauvignon from Barnard Griffin, Saint Laurent, or Claar Cellars

1 cup huckleberry preserves

8 cups ketchup

1/2 cup chili sauce

3/4 cup brown sugar

1/4 cup molasses

1 cup cider vinegar

1/2 cup ancho chili paste

1 tablespoon Worcestershire, sauce

2 tablespoons ground toasted cumin seed

1 dash Tabasco

Pinch of cloves

Beef stock

1 cup fresh huckleberries

Season short ribs with salt and pepper and brown in a heavy cast- iron skillet. Add choice of wine and reduce by one half. Add remaining ingredients except fresh huckleberries, cover with beef stock and simmer 3 to 4 hours until meat is tender.

Strain and reserve liquid. Simmer to reduce reserved liquid until syrupy in consistency. Add fresh huckleberries to liquid and pour over ribs. Serve immediately.

Yield: About 10 servings

Nutrition per serving: Unable to calculate.

The Grand Marnier Choclava Niko's will be serving at Taste Washington is a closely held family secret. However, here's the recipe for baklava from Niko's cookbook which is available at the restaurant, 725 W. Riverside Ave. The dessert served at Taste Washington will be paired with merlot from Arbor Crest, Cave B Cellars and L'Ecole No. 41 Winery.

BAKLAVA

From Niko's Greek Restaurant and Wine Bar Cookbook

4 cups walnuts, chopped

1/2 cup sugar

2 teaspoons cinnamon

3 cups thinned honey (see note)

1 package phyllo dough

Clarified butter, for brushing

Mix the walnuts, sugar and cinnamon.

Brush the baking pan with butter then lay down six sheets of phyllo dough, brushing each one with clarified butter as you lay it down.

Spread half of the filling mixture evenly, then lay three more sheets down, brushing each with clarified butter as well. Spread the second half of the filling then cover with the rest of the phyllo sheets, also brushing each layer with butter.

Cut into 2-by-2-inch sections and then bake in a preheated 350- degree oven for 40 minutes, then reduce the heat to 250 degrees and bake for 15 minutes more.

Pour the thinned honey evenly over the baklava and let it soak for at least four hours before serving.

Note: To make thinned honey combine 1 part honey and 1 part water in a saucepan. Bring it to a boil, and then remove from heat. It should be the consistency of pancake syrup. Add more honey or water to adjust, if needed.

Yield: 36 pieces

Approximate nutrition per serving: Unable to calculate.

This appetizer from Ankeny's in the Ridpath Hotel will be featured at Taste Washington with chardonnays from Forgeron Cellars, Mount Baker Vineyards, Ryan Patrick Vineyards and Hedges Cellars.

ANKENY'S SEAFOOD BOUCHEES

From Ankeny's in the Ridpath Hotel

2 pounds scallops

2 pounds lobster

1 cup ( 1/2 pound) butter

12 cloves garlic, roasted

Juice and zest from 2 lemons

1 cup Hedges Chardonnay

2 quarts of heavy cream

1/2 pound Gouda cheese, grated

1/2 pound Parmesan cheese, grated

Basil chiffonade (thin slices)

60 bouchees (small, individual, bite-size pie shells)

Saute scallops and lobster with butter and roasted garlic. Puree mixture. Reduce cream by one-half and add to puree. Add lemon juice, zest and wine and then heat gently. Add grated cheeses and the thin slices of basil. Pour into individual, bite-sized bouchees (pie shells) and serve.

Yield: 60 appetizers

Approximate nutrition per serving: Unable to calculate.

Liberty Lake's Solstice will pair its Smoked Cheddar and Scallion Cheese Puffs with cabernet sauvignon from Townshend Cellars, Pepper Bridge Winery and Bergevin.

SOLSTICE RESTAURANT'S SMOKED CHEDDAR AND SCALLION CHEESE PUFFS, WITH PORK, BARBECUE SAUCE (ASIAN-STYLE) WITH A YUCATECAN RUB

From Solstice Restaurant in Liberty Lake

For the Yucatecan Rub:

1 tablespoon achiote seeds

1 1/2 teaspoons whole coriander seeds

1 1/2 teaspoons dried orange zest

1 1/2 teaspoons ground cumin

1 tablespoon whole black peppercorns

1 tablespoon paprika

1 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1 1/2 to 2 pounds of pork, any type of cut available for cubing

To make the Yucatecan Rub: Lightly toast all the ingredients (except the pork) to bring out their flavor. Combined them in a spice mill or blender or food processor and grind to a coarse powder. Store in an airtight jar in the freezer for up to 6 months.

Season the pork with Yucatecan Rub and marinate for 3 to 4 hours. Make the Barbecue Sauce (Asian-Style) and Smoked Cheddar and Scallion Cheese Puffs (recipes follow) while you wait.

Once the pork has marinated, cut into 1-inch cubes. Grill, roast, saute or braise pork. Baste with barbecue sauce while you are cooking, whatever method you choose. Keep the sauce warm and dunk cubes in sauce after cooking.

Warm up cheese puffs. Just before serving, cut cheese puffs in half. They should be hollow. Stuff pork cubes into cheese cups and serve. Make sure pork cubes have plenty of sauce before stuffing the cheese cups.

Yield: About 30 pieces

Approximate nutrition per serving: Unable to calculate.

SMOKED CHEDDAR AND SCALLION CHEESE PUFFS

1 cup of water

1 stick ( 1/4 pound) unsalted butter

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 cup all-purpose flour, sifted

4 eggs

3/4 cup grated smoked cheddar cheese

4 scallions (green parts only)

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper. Combine the water, butter and salt in a saucepan. Bring to a boil.

Add the flour all at once and stir in well. Cook, stirring constantly, until the dough begins to come away from the sides of the pot. Immediately transfer the dough to a mixer and beat on medium speed, about 1 minute.

Stir in eggs, cheddar cheese and scallions.

Transfer the dough to a pastry bag with a plain tip, pipe out in 1- inch diameter balls (or other shapes as desired) onto the baking sheets. You may also drop puffs on the baking sheet with a spoon. Bake until golden brown, then reduce the oven temperature to 325 degrees and continue to bake until cooked through, about 12 to 15 minutes more.

BARBECUE SAUCE, (ASIAN-STYLE)

1/4 cup hoisin sauce

1/4 cup bean sauce

1/2 cup tomato ketchup

1/4 teaspoon ginger, minced

1/4 teaspoon white pepper

1 ounce scallions, chopped fine

1 tablespoon dry sherry

2 tablespoons applesauce

1 tablespoon sesame oil

1/4 cup sugar

Combine all ingredients. Set aside.

Yield: About 1 1/2 cups

This entree from the Spokane Club will be paired with cabernet sauvignon from Woodward Canyon, Eaton Hill Winery and Reininger Winery.

NORTHWEST CEDAR PLANKED SALMON WITH CHERRY CHUTNEY SAUCE

From Chef Ray Delfino of the Spokane Club

For the Salmon Rub:

2 tablespoons lemon pepper

2 tablespoons granulated garlic

2 tablespoons dried tarragon

2 tablespoons dried basil

3 tablespoons paprika

3 tablespoons kosher salt

3 tablespoons brown sugar

For the Cedar Planked Salmon:

3 pounds salmon fillet (cut into 6-ounce portions)

2 cedar planks

2 ounces olive oil

To make the Salmon Rub: Mix all dry ingredients well, store in tight container.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Soak cedar plank in water for 1/2 hour. Oil planks and place in oven for 3 to 4 minutes. Place oiled salmon on planks, season filets with Salmon Rub and bake about 8 to 10 minutes. Plate and serve with the Cherry Chutney Sauce (recipe follows).

Yield: 8 servings

Nutrition per serving: Unable to calculate

CHERRY CHUTNEY SAUCE

1 (28-ounce) can Bing cherries

1 jar mango chutney

1/4 teaspoon allspice

1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon nutmeg

Cornstarch slurry

Strain cherries, save juice and chop cherries fine. Combine chilled cherry juice, chutney and spices in a pot and heat to a boil. Thicken with the cornstarch slurry to proper consistency. Add in the cherries and stir. Ready to serve.

Yield: 8 servings

These appetizers from the Steam Plant Grill will be paired with dessert wines from Latah Creek Winery and Pasek Cellars.

SMOKED SALMON MOUSSE

From the Steam Plant Grill

1 pound alder smoked salmon

1 ounce brandy

3 ounces whipping cream

1 teaspoon fresh tarragon

Salt, to taste

Black pepper, to taste

24 capers

1 lemon

12 crostinis

Smoke salmon with alderwood smoking chips. Place in food processor and puree with brandy, cream and tarragon. Add salt and pepper to taste. When cool, spoon into pastry bag with a star tip and pipe on top of crostini. Garnish with 2 capers and thinly sliced lemon wheel.

Yield: 12 appetizers

Nutrition per serving: Unable to calculate

PORTOBELLO AND ARTICHOKE MUSHROOMS WITH ROUILLE SAUCE

From the Steam Plant Grill

1 pound portobello mushrooms

1 can artichoke hearts

1/2 pound cream cheese

10 ounces sour cream

10 ounces mayonnaise

1 cup Panko crumbs

4 ounces Parmesan cheese

2 tablespoons roasted garlic

1/4 teaspoons whole thyme

1 teaspoons whole basil

Salt, to taste

Black pepper, to taste

24 large mushrooms caps

Destem and remove gills from portobello mushrooms. Bake on low heat until softened. Chop artichoke hearts coarsely. In mixer, blend artichokes with remaining ingredients except mushroom caps. Spoon into pastry bag and stuff destemmed mushroom caps. Bake at 375 degrees for 10 minutes or until golden brown. Top with Rouille Sauce (recipe follows).

Yield: 24 stuffed mushroom caps

Nutrition per serving: Unable to calculate.

ROUILLE SAUCE

1 red pepper

1 cayenne chili pepper

3 garlic cloves

1 egg yolk

3/4 cup olive oil

Salt, to taste

Black pepper, to taste

1/8 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

Roast red pepper in oven until skin blackens. Place in plastic bag, cool, peel skin, deseed and remove white membranes. Deseed cayenne pepper. Place peppers in food processor and puree with garlic and egg yolk. Slowly add olive oil. Add salt and pepper, to taste. Add lemon juice.

JoeCo. Brazils restaurant will feature syrah from Fort Walla Walla Cellars, Lost River Winery and Zefina Winery with its Cajun Steak Bleu.

CAJUN STEAK BLEU

From JoeCo Brazils

1 (10-ounce) steak, cut into bite-sized pieces

2 tablespoons Cajun blackfish seasoning

1/3 cup smoked paprika

1/3 cup cayenne

2 tablespoons kosher salt

2 tablespoons fresh cracked black pepper

1 tablespoon white pepper

1/4 cup onion powder

1/4 cup garlic powder

1/4 cup brown sugar

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

Red wine to deglaze pan

1 1/2 ounces blue cheese crumbles

Combine seasonings (Cajun seasoning through brown sugar). Lightly dredge steak in seasoning mixture. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a large oven-proof skillet and sear the steak. Deglaze the pan with red wine and finish steak to desired temperature in the oven. Top with blue cheese and return to oven to melt. Serve immediately.

Yield: 4 appetizer servings

Approximate nutrition per serving: Unable to calculate.

SIDEBAR: IF YOU GO Taste Washington will be from 6 to 9 p.m., June 13 at the Davenport Hotel. Taste Washington tickets are $75 and can be purchased at Niko's, 725 W. Riverside Ave., 624-7444, at Vino! A Wine Shop, 222 S. Washington St., 838-1229, or online at www.tastewashington.org.

Copyright c 2004 The Spokesman-Review
Provided by ProQuest Information and Learning Company. All rights Reserved.