FALLING UNDER THE SPELL OF AWESOME ARGENTINA AMERICA

IT was the first time I had seen both ends of a rainbow - a huge technicolour arch of refracted light, back-lit by a scorching sun.

It formed a magical semi-circle above astonishing cascades of foaming white water thundering hundreds of feet down to the river.

The noise was deafening, pulsating through my body as I stood drenched by the steaming spray. It was a very bad hair day. This was nature's secret pot of gold - the incredible Iguazu Falls, 275 separate waterfalls, nearly three times wider than Niagara and almost 100metres high, straddling the borders of Argentina and Brazil in the South American jungle.

'It's more Viagra than Niagara," shouted my partner helpfully as we marvelled at the spectacle while rivers of perspiration ran down our backs in the 35C heat and 95 per cent humidity. We had our first glimpse of the falls - "Iguazu" is Guarani Indian for "big waters" - as we flew into Foz and Argentina's Iguazu national park, little more than an hour's hop from Buenos Aires.

But nothing prepared us for that first incredible close up of one of the most awe-inspiring sights on the planet.

We spent the afternoon exploring the huge network of unobtrusive walkways, which allow visitors to get up close to the falls. But this was just a taster.

The next morning another set of walkways led us to the Devil's Throat, an incredible churning, seething mass of water. Then I saw it - a tiny bobbing orange zodiac craft packed with life-jacketed tourists heading for what seemed like certain death in the Throat.

It tossed and bucketed its way in, almost disappearing under the raging falls before emerging safely with joyful whoops from its passengers.

This was the ultimate thrill offered by the park for those brave enough to try.

For me, it was quite enough just to watch.

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