Italian Speck enters U.S. market

NEW YORK-Offering a unique alternative to traditional Italian prosciutti, DiPalo's Fine Foods here became the first retailer in the United States to sell Speck dell' Alto Adige, a protected geographical indication cured ham, in July.

"This is a different product with a different taste profile and aroma with a smoky flavor," said Lou DiPalo, owner.

U.S. Department of Agriculture's Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service rules had forbidden the import of the meat until November 2002, when APHIS struck an agreement with the Italian Ministry of Health. As a result of the trade annex, the United States is able to import cured meats from Italy aged less than 400 days if those meats meet certain specifications.

"This annex covers a whole class of dry-cured products aged less than 400 days," explained Sebastiano Brancoli, managing director for Consultants International Group, Washington, which represents the Italian National Association of Meat Processors in the United States.

"We've been telling people this makes many products possible. It leaves the door open for any number of products."

The first product to take advantage of the annex was Ferrarini, a producer of Italian salami imported under two brands, for Swissrose International, Moonachie, N.J., and Atalanta, Elizabeth, N.J.

"Now we have Speck (dell' Alto Adige) and down the line, we will probably see one or two more Speck products," said Brancoli.

Speck dell' Alto Adige is the only PGI Speck produced in Italy.

"The key requirement is that the producer must have a dedicated facility or plant with raw materials from an animal disease-tree standpoint," Brancoli noted. "It also must be de-boned prior to processing."

Speck is German for ham. Alto Adige is a German-speaking part of the Dolomites in Northern Italy. The boneless leg of pork imparts characteristics reminiscent of both German Westphalian ham and Italian prosciutto. Speck dell' Alto Adige is cured in an herb bath containing juniper, pepper, garlic and pimento, before it is cold smoked and aged with a natural layer of mold for 140 days.

The PGI status for Speck dell' Alto Adige indicates the product is produced and aged in the province of Bolzano in Northern Italy according to consortium standards, however the raw material can be imported.

While Speck is a generic name for smoked, cured ham, Speck dell' Alto Adige is protected under European Union-enforced GIP laws.

USDA in mid-June approved Recla for export because it met APHIS rules requiring the plant to exclusively produce the approved product and to use swine from an approved country. Recla's pigs are imported from The Netherlands.

Cesare Gallo, president of Wilkes-Barre, Penn.-based Gallo Brokerage, the importer of Recla Speck, recommends that Speck be served as an antipasto or in chunks with pasta.

Copyright United Publications, Inc. Aug 2004
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