Quick Asian Noodles

You can put a great vegetarian dinner on the table in half an hour or less with these easy recipes.

Asian noodles are a great change of pace from "regular" pasta. Italian-style pasta is almost always made from durum semolina, a high-protein flour that produces a springy noodle with a mild wheat flavor. Although Italian pasta comes in dozens of shapes, its taste and texture are always the same. Asian noodles are made from a variety of different ingredients, such as buckwheat and rice, and offer a range of textures and flavors, from delicate and springy to earthy and chewy. They cook very quickly (usually in less than five minutes), which makes them a natural choice for fast meals.

To get a handle on the vast selection of Asian noodles, it's probably easiest to think of them in terms of their place of origin. There are three kinds of Japanese noodles available in the United States: soba, udon, and somen. Soba noodles are made from buckwheat. They are long and thin like Italian linguine, but have a brownish-gray color. Their hearty, robust flavor works well with strongly flavored ingredients. Both udon and somen are made from wheat; they are cream-colored, with a mild, pleasant wheaty flavor. Udon are slightly thicker than linguine. Somen are quite fine, like spaghettini or angel hair pasta. (If you are salt-sensitive, be aware that both udon and somen noodles are high in sodium.)

Bright white rice noodles, made from rice flour, are a staple in Southeast Asia (especially in Thailand and Vietnam) and are also eaten in parts of China. They are fairly bland and soak up a lot of flavor from sauces. Rice noodles come in a variety of thicknesses. Wiry rice vermicelli are extremely thin, even thinner than angel hair pasta, and must be pulled apart carefully when stir-frying so that each strand gets coated with sauce. They are well suited for soups, where their thin strands easily separate in the hot broth. Flat, slightly thicker noodles, called rice sticks (about the width of linguine), are easier to pull apart and sauce. Broad, flat rice noodles (usually as wide as fettuccine, or wider) are harder to find, but are easiest to work with and coat with sauce.

Although the Chinese use rice noodles, in most parts of the country wheat noodles are more common. Some Chinese wheat noodles are made with egg (especially fresh or frozen noodles), but most dried versions contain just wheat, salt, and water. They are light yellow in color and, like the rice noodles, come in a variety of thicknesses. Again, really thin noodles can stick together and are hard to coat with sauce. Thicker noodles (about the width of spaghetti) are easier to work with.

There are other kinds of noodles from Asia--clear cellophane noodles made from ground mung beans (also known as bean thread noodles) and sweet potato vermicelli, which are Korean noodles made from sweet potato and mung bean starch. Unfortunately, these noodles are hard to find outside of Asian food shops, so the recipes that follow rely on the more easily available Asian noodles--soba, udon, somen, rice, and Chinese wheat noodles.

Although most sources recommend soaking rice noodles as well as really thin Chinese wheat noodles, I prefer to boil them. They remain too springy and raw tasting when soaked. A minute or two of boiling gives them a softer texture and less doughy flavor. Once they are tender, all Asian noodles should be drained and rinsed under warm running water to wash away excess starch. It's not necessary to rinse Italian pasta, but Asian noodles tend to be much starchier. Asian noodles are often set aside after cooking and then added to a stir-fry or soup. If the noodles are not rinsed, they will stick together and form a sticky mess.

When adding noodles to a stir-fry, it's important to pull them apart and separate the individual noodles so that they can be coated with sauce. I find that spring-loaded tongs (the kind used by restaurant chefs) ate the best tool for this job. Look for this item in kitchenware stores. If you prefer to follow Asian tradition, use two chopsticks to pull apart the noodles in the wok.

SOBA NOODLES WITH SPICY GREENS

Serves 4

The hearty flavor of buckwheat noodles is a good foil for the pungent flavors of garlic, hot red pepper flakes, and leafy greens. Imported soba noodles are darker and have a more robust "groaty" flavor, while domestic brands tend to be lighter and milder. Use bok choy, broccoli rabe, Chinese broccoli, or kale, adjusting the cooking time as necessary Depending on how much of the stem is attached, you will need between 1 and 1 1/2 pounds of greens to yield the necessary 8 cups of chopped leaves.

12 ounces dried soba noodles
1 tablespoon peanut or canola oil
1 tablespoon Asian sesame oil
4 medium garlic cloves, minced
1 teaspoon hot red pepper flakes
1-1 1/2 pounds leafy greens (see note above),
  tough stems discarded and leaves cut
  into 1-inch pieces (about 8 cups)
1/4 cup mirin (Japanese sweet rice wine)
  or sherry
2 tablespoons soy sauce

1. Bring 4 quarts of water to boil in large pot. Add soba noodles and cook until al dente, 4 to 5 minutes. Drain and rinse under warm running water to remove excess starch. Set noodles aside.

2. Heat oils in large wok or nonstick skillet. When oils are quite hot, add garlic and hot red pepper flakes and stir-fry until fragrant, about 20 seconds. Add greens and cook, stirring to coat with oil, about 30 seconds. Add mirin and 1/2 cup water, cover, and cook until greens are tender, 2 to 4 minutes.

3. Uncover wok and add soba noodles and soy sauce. Stir-fry to combine ingredients and reheat noodles, about 1 minute. Serve immediately.

PER SERVING: 452 calories, 19 g protein, 9 g fat, 76 g carbohydrates, 6 g fiber, 357 mg sodium, 123% vitamin A, 274% vitamin C, 22% calcium

CHINESE WHEAT NOODLES WITH MIXED VEGETABLES AND SWEET-AND-SOUR SAUCE

Serves 4

A quick sweet-and-sour sauce is a nice counterpoint to stir-fried bell pepper, red onion, and zucchini. If you like, use pineapple juice in place of the orange juice or substitute eggplant for the zucchini.

12 ounces dried Chinese wheat noodles
  (the width of spaghetti)
4 tablespoons orange juice
3 tablespoons red wine vinegar
2 tablespoons granulated cane juice
1 tablespoon soy sauce
2 tablespoons peanut or canola oil
4 medium garlic cloves, minced
1 tablespoon minced fresh gingerroot
1 large red onion, sliced thin
2 medium zucchini, cut into thin
2-inch-long strips
1 yellow or orange bell pepper,
  stemmed, seeded, and cut into
  thin strips
3 medium scallions, sliced thin

1. Bring 4 quarts of water to boil in large pot. Add noodles and cook until al dente, 3 to 5 minutes. Drain and rinse under warm running water to remove excess starch. Set noodles aside.

2. Combine orange juice, vinegar, granulated cane juice, and soy sauce in small bowl and set aside.

3. Heat oil in large wok or nonstick skillet. When oil is quite hot, add garlic and ginger and stir-fry until fragrant, about 20 seconds. Add onion and stir-fry until softened, about 1 1/2 minutes. Add zucchini and stir-fry until tender, 2 to 3 minutes. Add pepper and stir-fry until slightly softened, about 1 minute.

4. Add noodles, reserved sauce, and scallions, and stir-fry to combine ingredients and reheat noodles, about 1 minute. Serve immediately.

PER SERVING: 436 calories, 10 g protein, 7 g fat, 85 g carbohydrates, 4 g fiber, 156 mg sodium, 4% vitamin A, 172% vitamin C, 3% calcium

BROTHY UDON NOODLES WITH MUSHROOMS

Serves 4

Wheaty, slippery udon noodles match up well with the intense flavor and chewy texture of dried and fresh mushrooms. You may use somen noodles instead; since they are thinner, cook them for 3 minutes. You can eat these noodles with a fork, but serve them in a wide, shallow soup bowl to hold the "sauce" in place.

1 ounce dried shiitake mushrooms
12 ounces dried udon noodles
2 tablespoons peanut or canola oil
1 medium onion, minced
12 ounces assorted fresh mushrooms,
  such as shiitakes, creminis,
  portobellos, and buttons, stems
  trimmed and thinly sliced
2 tablespoons sake or sherry
2 tablespoons soy sauce
3 medium scallions, sliced thin
2 tablespoons minced fresh
  cilantro leaves

1. Place dried mushrooms in small bowl and cover with 2 cups hot tap water. Set aside for 15 minutes to soak. Drain and chop mushrooms. Strain liquid through sieve lined with coffee filter or paper towel and set aside.

2. Meanwhile, bring 4 quarts of water to boil in large pot. Add noodles and cook until al dente, about 6 minutes. Drain and rinse under warm running water to remove excess starch. Set noodles aside.

3. Heat oil in large wok or nonstick skillet. When oil is quite hot, add onion and stir-fry until lightly browned, about 1 minute. Add fresh mushrooms and stir-fry until golden brown, about 4 minutes. Add rehydrated shiitake mushrooms and stir-fry for 30 seconds to bring out their flavor.

4. Add shiitake soaking liquid, sake, soy sauce, and scallions, and bring liquid to simmer. Add noodles and toss in broth to reheat, about 1 minute. Stir in cilantro and serve immediately, transferring noodles and broth to wide, shallow soup bowls.

PER SERVING: 409 calories, 16 g protein, 10 g fat, 68 g carbohydrates, 7 g fiber, 1,294 mg sodium, 1% vitamin A, 11% vitamin C, 2% calcium

RICE NOODLES WITH COCONUT CURRY SAUCE

Serves 4

Rice sticks soak up the flavors of this sweet and savory sauce, and take on a light yellow hue. You may also use rice vermicelli. They don't have the chewy texture of rice sticks but are equally good in this recipe.

12 ounces rice sticks
1/2 cup light coconut milk
2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 teaspoons curry powder
1/2 teaspoon granulated cane juice
1 1/2 tablespoons peanut or canola oil
4 medium garlic cloves, minced
1 tablespoon minced fresh gingerroot
1 medium red bell pepper, stemmed,
  seeded, and diced small
1/2 pound sugar snap peas
4 cups shredded napa cabbage

1. Bring 4 quarts of water to boil in large pot. Add noodles and cook until al dente, 2 to 3 minutes. Drain and rinse noodles under warm running water, and set aside.

2. Meanwhile, combine coconut milk, soy sauce, curry powder, and granulated cane juice in small bowl and set aside.

3. Heat oil in large wok or nonstick skillet. When oil is quite hot, add garlic and ginger and stir-fry until fragrant, about 20 seconds. Add bell pepper and stir-fry until slightly softened, about 30 seconds. Add peas and stir-fry until tender, about 1 minute. Add cabbage and stir-fry until wilted, about 1 1/2 minutes.

4. Add noodles and reserved sauce and stir-fry just long enough to combine ingredients and reheat noodles, about 1 minute. Serve immediately.

PER SERVING: 453 calories, 4 g protein, 12 g fat, 83 g carbohydrates, 4 g fiber, 336 mg sodium, 22% vitamin A, 144% vitamin C, 10% calcium

FLAT RICE NOODLES WITH BROCCOLI AND LEMON SAUCE

Serves 4

This simple dish relies on flat rice noodles that are wider than linguine but narrower than fettuccine. They are sometimes sold as jasmine rice noodles. You may use rice noodles that are broader than fettuccine, but avoid rice vermicelli because this dish does not have enough sauce to coat them adequately.

1 large bunch broccoli (about
1 1/2 pounds), stems trimmed
  and florets cut into bite-size pieces
  (about 6 cups)
12 ounces flat rice noodles
1/2 teaspoon grated lemon zest
3 tablespoons lemon juice
1/4 cup vegetable broth
1 tablespoon soy sauce
2 teaspoons granulated cane juice
1 1/2 tablespoons peanut or canola oil
4 medium garlic cloves, minced
1 tablespoon minced fresh gingerroot
1 large red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded,
  and cut into thin strips

1. Bring 4 quarts of water to boil in large pot. Add broccoli and cook until crisp-tender, about 1 1/2 minutes. Use slotted spoon to transfer broccoli to bowl and set aside. Add noodles to boiling water and cook until al dente, about 5 minutes. Drain and rinse the noodles under warm running water to remove excess starch. Set noodles aside.

2. Combine lemon zest and juice, broth, soy sauce, and granulated cane juice in small bowl and set aside.

3. Heat oil in large wok or nonstick skillet. When oil is quite hot, add garlic and ginger and stir-fry until fragrant, about 20 seconds. Add pepper and stir-fry until slightly softened, about 30 seconds. Add broccoli and stir-fry until heated through, about 30 seconds.

4. Add noodles and reserved sauce and stir-fry just long enough to combine ingredients and reheat noodles, about 1 minute. Serve immediately.

PER SERVING: 407 calories, 5 g protein, 6 g fat, 87 g carbohydrates, 5 g fiber, 196 mg sodium, 35% vitamin A, 276% vitamin C, 9% calcium

FLAT RICE NOODLES WITH FENNEL AND SPICY ORANGE SAUCE

Serves 4

Fennel has a dense texture and sweet flavor that works especially well when stir-fried. Very fine rice vermicelli will be overwhelmed by the chunks of vegetables. Use rice noodles that are at least as thick as linguine. To reduce the intensity of the chiles, remove the seeds before mincing.

12 ounces flat rice noodles
1 teaspoon grated orange zest
5 tablespoons orange juice
2 tablespoons mirin (Japanese sweet
  rice wine) or sherry
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 1/2 tablespoons peanut or canola oil
1 medium fennel bulb (about
  1 1/4 pounds), stems, fronds, and
  tough outer layer of bulb discarded,
  remaining bulb diced
4 medium garlic cloves, minced
1-2 fresh chiles, stemmed, seeded if
  desired, and minced
3 tablespoons unsalted peanuts,
  chopped
1 cup bean sprouts
1/4 cup whole fresh cilantro leaves

1. Bring 4 quarts of water to boil in large pot. Add noodles and cook until al dente, about 5 minutes. Drain and rinse under warm running water to remove excess starch. Set noodles aside.

2. Meanwhile, combine orange zest and juice, mirin, and soy sauce in small bowl and set aside.

3. Heat oil in large wok or nonstick skillet. When oil is quite hot, add fennel and stir-fry until softened, about 3 minutes. Add garlic, chiles, and peanuts and stir-fry until fragrant, about 30 seconds.

4. Add noodles, bean sprouts, cilantro, and reserved sauce, and stir-fry to combine ingredients and reheat noodles, about 1 minute. Serve immediately.

PER SERVING: 457 calories, 5 g protein, 9 g fat, 90 g carbohydrates, 4 g fiber, 369 mg sodium, 16% vitamin A, 98% vitamin C, 10% calcium

CHINESE WHEAT NOODLES WITH BAKED TOFU AND HOT-AND-SOUR SAUCE

Serves 4

Baked tofu is a quick way to add flavor and nutrition to a noodle dish. Look for various flavors of baked tofu in the refrigerator case at your supermarket or natural food store. For this dish, I would choose a simply flavored brand, with soy, sesame, and other Asian flavorings. Barbecued baked tofu, for instance, may taste a bit odd in this dish.

12 ounces dried Chinese wheat noodles
  (the width of spaghetti)
  cup vegetable broth
3 tablespoons rice vinegar
2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 teaspoons granulated cane juice
1 teaspoon hot red pepper flakes
1 tablespoon peanut or canola oil
1 tablespoon Asian sesame oil
4 medium garlic cloves, minced
4 medium scallions, sliced thin
8 ounces baked flavored tofu, cut into
  1/2-inch cubes
1/2 pound snow peas, ends snapped off

1. Bring 4 quarts of water to boil in large pot. Add noodles and cook until al dente, 3 to, 5 minutes. Drain and rinse under warm running water to remove excess starch. Set noodles aside.

2. Combine broth, vinegar, soy sauce, granulated cane juice, and hot red pepper flakes in small bowl and set aside.

3. Heat oils in large wok or nonstick skillet. When oils are quite hot, add garlic and scallions and stir-fry until fragrant, about 20 seconds. Add tofu and stir-fry until lightly crisped, about 1 minute. Add peas and cook until slightly softened, about 1 minute.

4. Add noodles and reserved sauce and stir-fry just long enough to combine ingredients and reheat noodles, about 1 minute. Serve immediately.

PER SERVING: 441 calories, 15 g protein, 8 g fat, 79 g carbohydrates, 4g fiber, 360 mg sodium, 7% vitamin A, 64% vitamin C, 6% calcium

SOBA NOODLES WITH FUSION PESTO

Series 4

This light dish takes its cues from Italian basil pesto. Although the texture of the sauce is thick and creamy like the original, the flavors are different. This version gets some sweetness from the mirin and some heat from the ginger and hot pepper flakes. The peanut oil, soy sauce, and cilantro also add an Asian twist.

12 ounces dried soba noodles
2 tablespoons pine nuts, walnuts,
  or almonds
1 small garlic clove, peeled
1 1/2-inch-square peeled fresh
  gingerroot, sliced
1 cup packed fresh basil leaves
1 cup packed fresh cilantro leaves
  teaspoon hot red pepper flakes,
  or to taste
2 tablespoons peanut or canola oil
2 tablespoons mirin (Japanese sweet
  rice wine) or sherry
1 tablespoon soy sauce

1. Bring 4 quarts of water to boil in large pot. Add noodles and cook until al dente, 4 to 5 minutes. Drain and rinse under warm running water to remove excess starch. Set noodles aside in large bowl.

2. Meanwhile, place nuts, garlic, ginger, basil, cilantro, and hot red pepper flakes in blender or food processor. Process, scraping down sides of bowl as necessary, until ingredients are finely ground. Add oil, mirin, and soy sauce and puree until smooth.

3. Scrape pesto into bowl with noodles. Toss to coat noodles with pesto and serve immediately.

PER SERVING: 400 calories, 16 g protein, 11 g fat, 62 g carbohydrates, 3 g fiber, 151 mg sodium, 6% vitamin A, 50 vitamin C, 5% calcium

SOMEN NOODLE SOUP WITH SILKEN TOFU AND TOASTED NORI

Serves 4

I like the creamy texture of silken tofu in this Japanese noodle dish. Make sure to use firm or extra-firm silken tofu; other varieties will be too soft and might fall apart in the broth. This dish is very brothy, so serve it with a spoon. The toasted nori (also called sushi nori) garnish is optional but adds a delicious sea vegetable flavor. Use scissors to cut the crisp sheet of nori into thin strips. If you like, substitute udon noodles; since they are wider, cook them for 6 minutes.

3 1/2 cups vegetable broth
1/4 cup tamari or soy sauce
1/4 cup mirin (Japanese sweet rice wine)
  or sherry
4 medium scallions, sliced thin
12 ounces silken tofu, cut into
  3/4-inch cubes
8 ounces dried somen noodles
1 sheet toasted nori, cut in half
  crosswise and then into thin strips
  (optional)

1. Bring 4 quarts of water to boil in large pot for cooking noodles.

2. Bring vegetable broth, tamari, and mirin to boil in medium saucepan. Reduce heat and simmer for 3 minutes to blend flavors. Add scallions and tofu, cover, remove pot from heat, and set aside for at least 5 minutes, or until noodles are ready.

3. Meanwhile, add noodles to boiling water and cook until al dente, 3 to 4 minutes. Drain and rinse under warm running water to remove excess starch.

4. Divide noodles among four deep soup bowls. Ladle broth and tofu over noodles. Garnish with the toasted nori and serve immediately.

PER SERVING: 316 calories, 15 g protein, 3 g fat, 55 g carbohydrates, 3 g fiber, 1,456 mg sodium, 59% vitamin A, 20% vitamin C, 6% calcium

CHINESE WHEAT NOODLES WITH GREEN BEANS AND GINGER

Serves 4

This simple recipe gets its flavor from an abundance of ginger. Other green vegetables, including asparagus or broccoli, can be used in place of the beans. Cut the asparagus in half lengthwise and then into 1 1/2-inch pieces; trim the broccoli florets into bite-size pieces.

1 pound green beans, ends snapped
  off and cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces
12 ounces dried Chinese wheat noodles
  (the width of spaghetti)
5 tablespoons vegetable broth
3 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons mirin (Japanese sweet
  rice wine) or sherry
1 tablespoon peanut or canola oil
1 tablespoon Asian sesame oil
4 medium garlic cloves, minced
3 tablespoons minced fresh
  gingerroot
1/4 cup snipped chives

1. Bring 4 quarts of water to boil in large pot. Add green beans and cook until crisp-tender, about 2 minutes. Use slotted spoon to transfer beans to bowl. Add noodles to boiling water and cook until al dente, 3 to 5 minutes. Drain and rinse under warm running water to remove excess starch. Set noodles aside.

2. Combine broth, soy sauce, and mirin in small bowl and set aside.

3. Heat oils in large wok or nonstick skillet. When oils are quite hot, add garlic and ginger and stir-fry until fragrant, about 20 seconds. Add green beans and cook until slightly softened, about 1 minute.

4. Add noodles, reserved sauce, and chives and stir-fry to combine ingredients and reheat noodles, about 1 minute. Serve immediately.

PER SERVING: 427 calories, 11 g protein, 7 g fat, 80 g carbohydrates, 6 g fiber, 458 mg sodium, 14% vitamin A, 37% vitamin C, 5% calcium

Jack Bishop is the food editor of Natural Health and the author of several cookbooks, including The Complete Italian Vegetarian Cookbook (Chapters/Houghton Mifflin, 1997).

COPYRIGHT 1999 Weider Publications
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