Risotto: Light but Right

New ingredients and classic technique blend together in a rich, wholesome dish.

Creamy, comforting risotto is one of the greatest glories of the northern Italian kitchen. Traditional risotto is made from starchy kernels of rice that are sauteed briefly in fat, usually butter. Next, the grains are plumped by hot meat or chicken stock, which is added gradually so the rice will absorb it. The rice continues to cook uncovered, with constant stirring, until the grains are al dente. At this point, the dish is flavored with vegetables, meat, or seafood and made creamy by the addition of grated cheese and butter before serving. While classic risotto may be delicious, it's not particularly healthy, nor is it fit for those who avoid animal products. But at its heart, risotto can be an ideal vegetarian meal.

I decided to see if it was possible to come up with a variety of vegan risotto recipes that deliver rich and satisfying flavors to your plate without any animal products in the pot. I wanted my risotto to have slightly chewy rice grains suspended in a satiny, creamy base. I also wanted to see if I could adapt the classic risotto technique to other grains. After weeks of steaming up my kitchen, I finally perfected some risottos without meat or dairy that improve on tradition. Here's what I learned.

The Fat

Fat plays several important roles in the preparation of risotto. Minced onions or leeks sauteed in butter or oil form the base of the dish, called the soffrito. When the rice is added to the soffrito, butter or oil coats the grains with a fatty shell to prevent them from becoming mushy as they cook. Butter or oil also come into play as a medium in which to saute vegetables, seafood, or the other flavorful ingredients, called the condimenti, that flavor the risotto after the rice has finished cooking.

I tried both butter and olive oil to make the soffrito and condimenti and was very pleased with my results using just olive oil. Extra-virgin olive oil was my favorite choice, since it added an appealing fruitiness to the risotto while staying true to the dish's Italian roots. Vegetable oils such as canola are also acceptable, but contribute nothing in terms of flavor. When making vegan risotto, every ingredient counts--particularly when traditional items, such as meat broth and Parmesan cheese, are not being used.

The Rice

In my testing, I used Arborio rice--the traditional choice of Italian cooks. Arborio is a medium-grain Italian rice that contains a high amount of glutenous starch (called amylopectin), which is released as the rice cooks and gives risotto its creamy texture. Other Italian rices, such as Carnaroli and Vialone Nano, are similar and may be used instead. Other grains can be cooked "risotto-style." Farro (also known as spelt), a type of high-protein wheat enjoyed in parts of Italy and becoming increasingly available in this country, is one such grain. Similar in look and flavor to barley, farro becomes ultra-creamy as it cooks. And although it requires more stock and cooking time than Arborio rice and is more difficult to find in stores, it produces a terrific-tasting risotto spinoff. (If you can't find farro at your local gourmet store or Italian market, pearl barley is an acceptable substitute.) I also tried using orzo (tiny rice-shaped pasta), which created a quick and easy dish that resembles true risotto.

Regular American rice does not work in a risotto. Long-grain rice, for instance, simply does not contain enough starch to give the finished dish a creamy texture. Sushi rice produces a fine risotto, although not quite as silky as risotto made with Arborio rice. Short-grain brown rice, despite its starchy nature when steamed, produces a risotto that is delicious but more like a pilaf.

The Stock

Classic risotto uses meat stock to swell the rice with a savory richness. In the past, I have successfully replaced meat stock with vegetable stock in a variety of vegan recipes. Risotto was no exception. The vegetable broth plumped the rice beautifully, although it gave the risotto a somewhat more dainty flavor than meat stock does. To "beef up" the flavor of the rice, I relied on high-flavor condimenti and garnishes.

I decided to use commercial vegetable stocks in my testing for the sake of convenience. I settled on Pacific Foods of Oregon Organic Vegetable Broth because it has a delicate roasted vegetable flavor and a lovely golden color.

The Cheese

Most Italian risotto contains freshly grated Parmesan cheese, which rounds out the dish and seasons it with a salty, nutty flavor. Since vegan risotto cannot contain cheese, I decided to create my own flavorful cheese substitutes such as toasted chopped nuts and a mixture of ginger, garlic, and scallions sauteed in oil. I also taste-tested various nondairy cheeses to see how they would fare in the risotto. I rejected soy Parmesan cheese because it had an unappealing tangy flavor in this subtle dish. Then I discovered Monterey Jack-style soy cheese. Much gooier than Parmesan, it shreds and melts beautifully and adds a buttery richness to the risotto. I swirled it into some of the recipes with outstanding results.

Other Ingredients

Wine is typically added to risotto (immediately after the rice sizzles in the oil) for flavor and depth. As the wine bubbles in the pot, the alcohol evaporates, leaving behind a hint of fermented grapes. In my testing I made risotto with and without wine (I substituted extra vegetable stock for the wine) and found I preferred the additional layer of flavor that the wine imparts. For delicate risottos, most cooks use a dry white wine. Fruity red wines are sometimes used for heartier risottos. Fortified wines, such as Marsala and Madeira, add a flavorful embellishment to an earthy-tasting mushroom risotto.

Herbs add freshness and depth. Dried herbs or hard fresh herbs, such as rosemary and thyme, are best added at the beginning of cooking (usually to the soffrito) so that the broth has plenty of time to unlock their flavors. Fresh soft herbs, such as parsley, chives, and basil, are best added to the finished dish so that their delicate flavor is preserved.

As with any recipe, salt and freshly ground pepper help accentuate the other flavors. In traditional risotto, cooks "salt" their rice by using savory meat stock and Parmesan cheese. For my vegan risotto, I seasoned the condimenti with salt and pepper and then, when necessary, added a pinch of salt at the very end of the cooking.

With numerous batches of risotto now under my belt, I have discovered how to create healthy, yet delectable, versions of this creamy Italian rice dish. And despite my elimination of butter, meats, animal stock, and cheese, the risotto recipes below could easily pass for the real thing. The proof is in the pot.

BASIC RISOTTO

Serves 4

This plain risotto is better as an accompaniment to other dishes, such as grilled or roasted vegetables, than as a main course.

3 cups vegetable stock
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, minced
1 cup Arborio rice
1/2 cup dry white wine
6 tablespoons chopped fresh soft herbs
  (such as basil, chives, mint,
  and/or parsley)
  Salt and ground black pepper

1. Bring stock to boil in medium saucepan. Reduce heat to low, cover, and keep at very gentle simmer.

2. Heat oil in medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Add onion and saute until it softens, about 3 minutes. Add rice and stir to coat with oil for 1 minute. Add wine and cook, stirring often, until it almost evaporates, about 2 minutes. Add 1/2 cup hot stock and cook, stirring constantly, until it is almost absorbed. Continue adding stock in this manner, 1/2 cup at a time, until stock is gone and rice is al dente, about 20 minutes. (If rice is not al dente and you have run out of stock, use hot water.)

3. Stir herbs into rice. Season with salt and pepper to taste and serve immediately.

PER SERVING: 253 calories, 4 g protein, 3 g fat, 46 g carbohydrates, 1 g fiber, 298 mg sodium, 51% vitamin A, 26% vitamin C, 3% calcium

SAFFRON RISOTTO WITH SWISS CHARD, ZUCCHINI, AND PEAS

Serves 4

Crumble the saffron threads between your fingers right over the pot to release their flavor.

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 pound Swiss chard, stems minced
  (about 1 cup) and leaves cut into
  thin strips (about 2 cups)
1 small zucchini, diced
1 cup frozen peas, thawed
2 medium garlic cloves, minced
3 cups vegetable stock
1/2 teaspoon saffron threads, crumbled
1 medium onion, minced
1 cup Arborio rice
1/2 cup dry white wine
3 tablespoons chopped
  fresh basil leaves
3 tablespoons chopped
  fresh mint leaves
  Salt and ground black pepper

1. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in large skillet. Add Swiss chard stems and zucchini and saute over medium heat until tender, about 3 minutes. Stir in Swiss chard leaves and saute just until wilted, about 1 minute. Stir in peas and garlic and cook for 30 seconds. Turn off heat and cover pan to keep vegetables warm.

2. Bring stock to boil in medium saucepan. Add saffron, reduce heat to low, cover, and keep at very gentle simmer.

3. Heat remaining tablespoon oil in medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Add onion and saute until it softens, about 3 minutes. Add rice and stir to coat with oil for 1 minute. Add wine and cook, stirring often, until it almost evaporates, about 2 minutes. Add 1/2 cup hot stock and cook, stirring constantly, until it is almost absorbed. Continue adding stock in this manner, 1/2 cup at a time, until stock is gone and rice is al dente, about 20 minutes. (If rice is not al dente and you have run out of stock, use hot water.)

4. Stir cooked vegetables and fresh herbs into rice. Season with salt and pepper to taste and serve immediately.

PER SERVING: 325 calories, 7 g protein, 7 g fat, 54 g carbohydrates, 4 g fiber, 389 mg sodium, 62% vitamin A, 40% vitamin C, 5% calcium

LEMONY RISOTTO WITH WHITE BEANS AND SPINACH

Serves 4

White beans accentuate the creaminess of the rice. A gentle hint of lemon permeates this hearty risotto.

5 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 pound spinach, stemmed and
  chopped (about 3 cups)
1 15-ounce can cannellini beans,
  drained and rinsed
2 medium garlic cloves, minced
3 cups vegetable stock
1 medium onion, minced
1 cup Arborio rice
1/2 cup dry white wine
3 tablespoons chopped fresh
  parsley leaves
2 tablespoons minced fresh chives
2 teaspoons grated lemon zest
  Salt and ground black pepper

1. Heat 2 teaspoons oil in large saucepan. Add spinach and saute over medium heat until wilted, about 2 minutes. Stir in beans and garlic and cook for 30 seconds. Turn off heat and cover pot to keep vegetables warm.

2. Bring stock to boil in medium saucepan. Reduce heat to low, cover, and keep at very gentle simmer.

3. Heat remaining 3 teaspoons oil in medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Add onion and saute until it softens, about 3 minutes. Add rice and stir to coat with oil for 1 minute. Add wine and cook, stirring often, until it almost evaporates, about 2 minutes. Add 1/2 cup hot stock and cook, stirring constantly, until it is almost absorbed. Continue adding stock in this manner, 1/2 cup at a time, until stock is gone and rice is al dente, about 20 minutes. (If rice is not al dente and you have run out of stock, use hot water.)

4. Stir cooked spinach and bean mixture, herbs, and lemon zest into rice. Add salt and pepper to taste; serve immediately

PER SERVING: 432 calories, 16 g protein, 6 g fat, 75 g carbohydrates, 9 g fiber, 336 mg sodium, 78% vitamin A, 44% vitamin C, 17% Calcium

DILLED RISOTTO WITH ROASTED YELLOW PEPPERS AND ASPARAGUS

Serves 4

Pureed roasted yellow peppers give this risotto a bright color and smooth texture. The soy cheese makes it especially creamy.

2 medium yellow bell peppers
5 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil
3/4 pound thin asparagus, tough ends
  snapped off, spears cut on diagonal
  into 1-inch pieces
3 medium shallots, minced
3 cups vegetable stock
2 medium leeks, white and light green
  parts only, minced
1 cup Arborio rice
1/2 cup dry white wine
1/3 cup minced fresh dill leaves
4 ounces Monterey Jack-style soy
  cheese, shredded (about 1 cup)
  Salt and ground black pepper

1. Preheat broiler. Place peppers on baking sheet and broil, turning often, until skins are lightly charred. Place peppers in small bowl, covered, for 15 minutes. Core, peel, and seed peppers, then puree in blender or food processor. Set aside.

2. Heat 2 teaspoons oil in large skillet. Add asparagus and shallots and saute over medium heat until tender, about 8 minutes. Turn off heat and cover pan to keep vegetables warm.

3. Bring stock to boil in medium saucepan. Reduce heat to low, cover, and keep at very gentle simmer.

4. Heat remaining 3 teaspoons oil in medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Add leeks and saute until they soften, about 3 minutes. Add rice and stir to coat with oil for 1 minute. Add wine and cook, stirring often, until it almost evaporates, about 2 minutes. Add 1/2 cup hot stock and cook, stirring constant1y, until it is almost absorbed. Continue adding stock in this manner, 1/2 cup at a time, until stock is gone and rice is al dente, about 20 minutes. (If rice is not al dente and you have run out of stock, use hot water.)

5. Stir pureed peppers, asparagus mixture, dill, and soy cheese into rice. Season with salt and pepper to taste and serve immediately.

PER SERVING: 422 calories, 14 g protein, 11 g fat, 64 g carbohydrates, 5 g fiber, 509 mg sodium, 65% vitamin A, 325% vitamin C, 8% calcium

FARRO "RISOTTO" WITH MUSHROOMS AND CARAMELIZED ONIONS

Serves 4

Made with either farro or pearl barley this dish has a hearty, creamy texture accented by porcini and wild mushrooms.

1 ounce dried porcini mushrooms
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 medium onions, halved and thinly
  sliced
  Salt and ground black pepper
1 pound wild mushrooms (such as
  shiitake, cremini, and oyster),
  stemmed and sliced
2 medium garlic cloves, minced
3 1/2 cups vegetable stock
2 medium leeks, white and light green
  parts only, minced
1 1/2 teaspoons dried rosemary
1 cup farro or pearl barley
1/2 cup Madeira or Marsala

1. Place porcini mushrooms in small bowl and cover with 2 1/2 cups boiling water. Soak until mushrooms have softened, about 30 minutes. Drain mushrooms, reserving soaking liquid, and chop. Strain soaking liquid through coffee filter or sieve lined with paper towel and set aside.

2. While mushrooms soak, heat 1 1/2 teaspoons oil in large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add onions and saute for 20 minutes, or until lightly caramelized. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Turn off heat, and cover pan to keep warm.

3. Heat 1 1/2 teaspoons oil in another medium skillet over medium-high heat. Add wild mushrooms and saute until soft and golden, about 12 minutes. Stir in garlic and chopped porcini mushrooms, and cook for 30 seconds. Turn off heat and cover pan to keep warm.

4. Bring stock and reserved porcini soaking liquid to boil in medium saucepan. Reduce heat to low, cover, and keep at very low simmer.

5. Heat remaining tablespoon oil in medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Add leeks and rosemary and saute until leeks soften, about 3 minutes. Add farro and stir to coat with oil for 1 minute. Add Madeira and cook, stirring often, until it has almost evaporated, about 2 minutes. Add 1/2 cup hot stock mixture and cook, stirring constantly, until stock is almost absorbed. Continue adding stock in this manner, 1/2 cup at a time, until stock is gone and farro is creamy and mildly chewy, about 40 minutes. (If farro is not cooked enough and you have run out of stock, use hot water.)

6. Stir cooked mushrooms into farro mixture. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Divide risotto among individual bowls and garnish with caramelized onions. Serve immediately.

PER SERVING: 392 calories, 12 g protein, 9 g fat, 65 g carbohydrates, 13 g fiber, 318 mg sodium, 57% vitamin A, 38% vitamin C, 9% calcium

ORZO "RISOTTO" WITH ROASTED EGGPLANT AND SUN-DRIED TOMATOES

Serves 4

Orzo sheds a fair amount of starch when cooked like risotto, creating an appealing creamy texture for this dish. The cheese also makes this dish very smooth and silky.

1 medium eggplant (about 1 pound),
  peeled and cut into 1/2-inch cubes
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon dried Italian herbs
  Salt and ground black pepper
4 cups vegetable stock
1 medium onion, minced
1/4 medium fennel bulb, diced fine
  (about 1/2 cup)
4 medium garlic cloves, minced
1 cup orzo pasta
1/2 cup dry white wine
1/3 cup chopped oil-packed
  sun-dried tomatoes
1 small plum tomato, cored and diced
4 ounces Monterey Jack-style soy
  cheese, shredded (about 1 cup)
1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley leaves

1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Place eggplant in small roasting pan and toss with 1 tablespoon oil, Italian herbs, a sprinkle of salt, and several grinds of pepper. Roast, turning occasionally, for 35 to 40 minutes, or until soft and golden.

2. Bring stock to boil in medium saucepan. Reduce heat to low, cover, and keep at very low simmer.

3. Heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil in medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Add onion, fennel, and garlic and saute until softened, about 3 minutes. Add orzo and stir to coat with oil for 1 minute. Add wine, sun-dried tomatoes, and plum tomato and cook, stirring often, until wine almost evaporates, about 2 minutes. Add 1/2 cup hot stock and cook, stirring constantly, until it is almost absorbed. Continue adding stock in this manner, 1/2 cup at a time, until stock is gone and orzo is al dente, about 20 minutes. (If orzo is not al dente and you have run out of stock, use hot water.)

4. Stir eggplant, soy cheese, and parsley into orzo mixture. Season with salt and pepper to taste and serve immediately.

PER SERVING: 365 calories, 13 g protein, 14 g fat, 45 g carbohydrates, 6 g fiber, 534 mg sodium, 70% vitamin A, 57% vitamin C, 6% calcium

Victoria Abbott Biccardi is a food writer based in Boston. She studied French cooking at Le Cordon Bleu and Japanese cooking in Kyoto, Japan.

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