文章基本信息

标题：Best Vegetarian Lasagne
作者：Jack Bishop
期刊名称：Natural Health
印刷版ISSN：1067-9588
出版年度：1999
卷号：Jan 1999
出版社：American Media Inc

Best Vegetarian Lasagne

Jack Bishop

Our lean and easy lasagne has layers of flavor.

Vegetarian Lasagne is a rich, hearty, and satisfying meal, ideal for cold winter months. This meatless dish is also the perfect choice when feeding a crowd, because it can be assembled in advance, frozen, and baked as needed--you don't have to cook and entertain at the same time.

But there are several things about lasagne that scare many people off. Unfortunately, cheesy flavor often translates into a lot of fat. Many lasagne recipes call for three or four cheeses and may contain 40 or more grams of fat per serving. That's as much fat as you should consume in an entire day. For this article, I wanted to figure out how to make lasagne using nondairy cheese substitutes and keep the amount of fat down. With less emphasis on the cheese, I needed to make sure that the lasagne was flavorful. Vegetable lasagnes can be watery and bland, and attempts to heighten the flavor often reintroduce fat.

Finally, I wanted to simplify the process as much as possible. Many lasagne recipes require a good half day in the kitchen. I'll never forget the time my friend Peggy called me crying because she was so tired from making a lasagne recipe from a famous Italian cookbook. It was six in the evening, she had been shopping, cooking, and cleaning pots since breakfast, and she didn't think she could stay awake for her own party that night. Just because lasagne involves little last-minute work doesn't mean it is easy to prepare.

What About the Cheese?

Can you make lasagne without dairy? Tofu can be crumbled to resemble ricotta in texture and seems like the logical vegan choice. But crumbled tofu turns lasagne into a watery, slippery mess. In addition, the flavor is not right. After several disastrous attempts at using different types of tofu, I concluded that lasagne needs cheese or a cheese substitute to act as a binder and bring the layers of pasta and sauce together into a cohesive casserole.

Throughout my testing, I experimented with various cheese alternatives made from soy or rice. Almost all brands contain casein, a milk protein that helps the cheese melt when heated. I was able to find only one brand that is casein-free and truly vegan, but it did not melt well and is not recommended in this recipe. Cheese alternatives made with casein look and melt like real cheese, although their flavor is not as rich.

So why use a cheese alternative rather than real cheese? First, cheese alternatives are made without rennin (a coagulating enzyme in the lining of calf stomachs used widely in cheese-making) and are therefore suitable for vegetarians. Because they do not contain lactose, they should not cause gas or bloating in people who are lactose-intolerant. (People allergic to dairy should check with their doctors before using cheese alternatives with casein.)

Cheese alternatives are also much lower in fat and calories and do not contain cholesterol. For instance, 12 ounces of part-skim mozzarella contains 960 calories, 60 g of fat, and 180 mg of cholesterol. The same amount of a typical soy-based mozzarella alternative contains just 640 calories, 32 g of fat, and no cholesterol. Cheese alternatives generally contain more sodium, no doubt to give them a flavor boost. The amount is not excessive (approximately 290 mg per ounce versus 75 to 280 mg per ounce for real mozzarella), but if you are on a low-sodium diet, shop carefully.

In this recipe, soy-based mozzarella adds the chewy, stringy cheese texture people expect from lasagne. It also helps bind the layers of pasta together. But since mozzarella alternative alone is a bit bland, I added grated soy Parmesan to boost the flavor. Finally, I focused on the amount of cheese. Many conventional recipes have a pound or more of mozzarella and several cups of grated Parmesan. I found that 12 ounces of mozzarella alternative and one-half cup of grated Parmesan alternative were enough to flavor an entire lasagne.

In my testing I preferred brands with a little bit of fat and found those that were fat-free rubbery and bland. Mozzarella cheese substitutes are sold in blocks or slices, and either may be used. Grated Parmesan cheese alternatives are sold in small canisters and taste quite salty. They don't melt as well as the mozzarella alternatives, so make sure to sprinkle them evenly over each layer of pasta.

Precook Those Veggies

From past experience, I knew that precooking vegetables was essential to a flavorful lasagne, but just to prove the point to myself, I layered raw mushrooms and zucchini with tomato sauce and shredded mozzarella cheese alternative between sheets of pasta. As I expected, the vegetables shed their water in the lasagne pan and made a soggy mess. Precooking the vegetables not only drives off excess liquid but gives you a chance to boost the flavor of the vegetables, either by caramelizing their natural sugars or adding ingredients such as olive oil, garlic, hot red pepper flakes, and herbs such as basil, oregano, and thyme.

When developing recipes, I tried to choose lower-fat cooking methods, roasting eggplant rather than sauteing or frying it. Many other vegetables, including asparagus, fennel, and zucchini, respond well to roasting. Just cut them in small bite-size pieces that will fit between layers of pasta before cooking. I usually coat them lightly with olive oil, season them with salt and pepper, and roast them until they are lightly browned.

Onions and mushrooms will become golden brown much more quickly on top of the stove than in the oven. They can be sauteed in a very small amount of olive oil without sticking. You can even throw leafy greens, such as spinach, into the same pan. If the greens are damp and there is some oil in the pan, they won't scorch.

I also like broccoli and cauliflower in lasagne. These vegetables are best blanched and then sauteed in some flavorful oil and garlic. Basically, any cooked vegetable can be used to make lasagne. Just make sure that the pieces are small and that the vegetable has been well-seasoned.

Making the Noodles Simple

At this point in my testing, I started to experiment with oven-ready, or no-boil, noodles. Many people object to the tedious boiling, draining, and cooling of conventional lasagne noodles. Oven-ready noodles can be taken straight from the box, layered with sauce in the lasagne pan, and baked.

Some recipes suggest soaking the noodles in hot or cold tap water before layering them with the sauce and cheese. I found that this step made the pasta too soft after baking.

Just layering the noodles and sauce into the pan and then baking is not acceptable either. The sauce dries out and the noodles get too crispy. When I wrapped the lasagne pan with foil and then baked it, the noodles came out tender, not crunchy, and the sauce was not overly reduced.

Covering the lasagne with foil as it bakes does present a problem--the cheese will not brown. A conventional lasagne is baked uncovered so the top layer of cheese will turn golden and chewy in spots. I found that by removing the foil during the last 15 minutes of baking I was able to achieve the color and texture I wanted.

With the cheese, vegetable, and pasta issues settled, I had a great recipe that could be adapted to whatever vegetables were on hand. My recipe is also relatively low in fat and easy to make. I can finally call my friend Peggy back and tell her its possible to make a memorable vegetarian lasagne without all that back-breaking work--or all that fat.

BEST VEGETABLE LASAGNE

Serves 8

Consider this a basic or master recipe for vegetable lasagne. You can use any cooked and seasoned vegetables you like. Just make sure they are cut into small pieces that will fit snugly between layers of pasta. The recipes that follow offer some specific vegetable suggestions with eggplant, spinach, mushrooms, and broccoli.

You can use oven-ready or conventional lasagne noodles for all of these recipes. (For instructions, see Choosing Your Noodle on page 78.)

All the lasagne recipes can be made with either cheese or a cheese substitute. Look for cheese alternatives in natural food stores or near the other soy dairy products in your supermarket. If you purchase mozzarella in a block, shred it on the large holes of a box grater or in a food processor. If you purchase individual slices of mozzarella, tear each slice into several pieces as you distribute the cheese over the noodles.

3 cups Fastest Tomato Sauce (recipe
  below)
12 oven-ready lasagne noodles
3 cups cooked and seasoned vegetables
12 ounces mozzarella cheese alternative,
  shredded, or 16 individually wrapped
3/4-ounce slices mozzarella cheese
  alternative
1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese
  alternative

1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

2. Spread 1/2 cup tomato sauce evenly over bottom of greased 13 by 9-inch lasagne pan. Lay 3 noodles crosswise over sauce, making sure they do not overlap. Spoon 1 cup prepared vegetables evenly into pan. Spoon 1/2 cup tomato sauce over vegetables. Distribute 3/4 cup shredded or 4 slices mozzarella and 2 tablespoons Parmesan evenly over sauce. Repeat layering of pasta, vegetables, tomato sauce, and cheeses two more times. For final layer, spread remaining 1 cup tomato sauce evenly over fourth layer of pasta. Distribute remaining 1 cup shredded or 4 slices mozzarella and 2 tablespoons Parmesan evenly over sauce.

3. Wrap pan in foil. (Lasagne may be refrigerated overnight or frozen for several weeks. If frozen, defrost lasagne in refrigerator.)

4. Bake lasagne for 25 minutes (30 minutes if chilled). Carefully remove foil and continue baking until top layer turns golden brown in spots, about 15 minutes. Remove pan from oven and allow to settle for 5 minutes. Cut into squares and serve immediately.

PER SERVING (WITHOUT VEGETABLES): 254 calories, 15g protein, 7g fat, 30g carbohydrates, 2g fiber, 1,135mg sodium, 53% vitamin A, 40% vitamin C, 51% calcium

FASTEST TOMATO SAUCE

Makes about 3 cups

Lasagne requires a smooth, fairly watery tomato sauce. Crushed tomatoes, sometimes called ground tomatoes, are much faster to use than whole canned tomatoes, which must be chopped and then simmered until they break down. This sauce takes less than 10 minutes to prepare. If you prefer, substitute an equal amount of your favorite homemade or prepared tomato sauce. Avoid sauces that are too chunky.

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
2 medium garlic cloves, minced
1 28-ounce can crushed tomatoes
2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil or
  parsley leaves
  Salt and ground black pepper

Heat oil in large saucepan. Add garlic and saute until golden, about 1 minute. Add tomatoes, bring sauce to boil, and simmer for 5 minutes. Stir in basil or parsley and salt and pepper to taste. (Sauce can be refrigerated for 2 days or frozen for several months.)

EGGPLANT LASAGNE

Serves 8

Roasting concentrates the flavor in the eggplant without the addition of as much oil as would be required for sauteing. You may substitute zucchini for the eggplant if you like.

4 medium eggplants (about 2 pounds),
  cut into 1/2-inch dice
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
4 medium garlic cloves, minced
  Salt and ground black pepper
3 cups Fastest Tomato Sauce
12 oven-ready lasagne noodles
12 ounces mozzarella cheese alternative,
  shredded, or 16 individually wrapped
  3/4-ounce slices mozzarella cheese
  alternative
1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese
  alternative

1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Toss eggplant, oil, garlic, and salt and pepper to taste together in large bowl. Spread eggplant out over two large baking sheets. Roast, turning occasionally, until eggplant is golden brown, about 35 minutes. Remove eggplant from oven and set aside. Reduce oven temperature to 375 degrees.

3. Wrap pan in foil. (Lasagne may be refrigerated overnight or frozen for several weeks and defrosted in refrigerator.)

PER SERVING: 315 calories, 16g protein, 11g fat, 37g carbohydrates, 5g fiber, 1,272mg sodium, 54% vitamin A, 44% vitamin C, 52% calcium

SPINACH AND MUSHROOM LASAGNE

Serves 8

To save time, the spinach and mushrooms are cooked together in the same pot. Once the mushrooms are golden brown, add the spinach leaves and cook just until they have wilted. Make sure the spinach is a bit damp as it goes into the pot so it won't scorch. (Wash the spinach leaves and shake off the excess water but don't dry them further.) Cremini mushrooms are particularly good in this dish but any fresh mushrooms are fine. Other tender, leafy greens, especially Swiss chard, can be substituted for the spinach.

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, minced
1 pound mushrooms, sliced thin
  Salt and ground black pepper
1 pound spinach, stems removed and
  leaves chopped (about 12 cups)
3 cups Fastest Tomato Sauce
12 oven-ready lasagne noodles
12 ounces mozzarella cheese alternative,
  shredded, or 16 individually wrapped
  3/4-ounce slices mozzarella cheese
  alternative
1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese
  alternative

1. Heat oil in deep pot. Add onion and saute over medium heat until softened, about 4 minutes. Add mushrooms and cook until golden brown, about 8 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Add spinach and cook, stirring often, until wilted, about 5 minutes. Adjust seasonings and set vegetables aside.

2. Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Spread 1/2 cup tomato sauce evenly over bottom of greased 13 by 9-inch lasagne pan. Lay 3 noodles crosswise over sauce, making sure they do not overlap. Spoon 1 cup prepared vegetables evenly into pan. Spoon 1/2 cup tomato sauce over vegetables. Distribute 3/4 cup shredded or 4 slices mozzarella and 2 tablespoons Parmesan evenly over sauce. Repeat layering of pasta, vegetables, tomato sauce, and cheeses two more times. For final layer, spread remaining 1 cup tomato sauce evenly over fourth layer of pasta. Distribute remaining 1 cup shredded or 4 slices mozzarella and 2 tablespoons Parmesan evenly over sauce.

3. Wrap pan in foil. (Lasagne may be refrigerated overnight or frozen for several weeks and defrosted in refrigerator.)

PER SERVING: 314 calories, 18g protein, 11g fat, 35g carbohydrates, 4g fiber, 1,316mg sodium, 91% vitamin A, 71% vitamin C, 57% calcium

SPICY BROCCOLI LASAGNE

Serves 8

For this recipe, the broccoli is blanched and then chopped fine before being sauteed in garlicky olive oil. Cauliflower can be prepared in the same fashion.

2 medium heads broccoli (about 2
  pounds), stems removed and broken
  into florets
  Salt
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 medium garlic cloves, minced
1 teaspoon hot red pepper flakes
3 cups Fastest Tomato Sauce
12 oven-ready lasagne noodles
12 ounces mozzarella cheese alternative,
  shredded, or 16 individually wrapped
  3/4-ounce slices mozzarella cheese
  alternative
1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese
  alternative

1. Bring several quarts of water to boil in large pot. Add broccoli and salt to taste and cook al dente, about 2 minutes. Drain and cool slightly. Chop broccoli fine.

2. Heat oil in large skillet. Add garlic and saute over medium heat until golden, about 1 minute. Add broccoli and cook until tender, about 3 minutes. Add hot red pepper flakes and salt to taste. Set vegetables aside.

3. Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Spread 1/2 cup tomato sauce evenly over bottom of greased 13 by 9-inch lasagne pan. Lay 3 noodles crosswise over sauce, making sure they do not overlap. Spoon 1 cup prepared broccoli evenly into pan. Spoon 1/2 cup tomato sauce over vegetables. Distribute 3/4 cup shredded or 4 slices mozzarella and 2 tablespoons Parmesan evenly over sauce. Repeat layering of pasta, vegetables, tomato sauce, and cheeses two more times. For final layer, spread remaining 1 cup tomato sauce evenly over fourth layer of pasta. Distribute remaining 1 cup shredded or 4 slices mozzarella and 2 tablespoons Parmesan evenly over sauce.

4. Wrap pan in foil. (Lasagne may be refrigerated overnight or frozen for several weeks and defrosted in refrigerator.)

5. Bake lasagne for 25 minutes (30 minutes if chilled). Carefully remove foil and continue baking until top layer turns golden brown in spots, about 15 minutes. Remove pan from oven and allow to settle for 5 minutes. Cut into squares and serve immediately.

PER SERVING: 317 calories, 18g protein, 11g fat, 36g carbohydrates, 5g fiber, 1,299mg sodium, 71% vitamin A, 217% vitamin C, 57% calcium

Lasagne Veggie Combinations

WHY MAKE LASAGNE with just one vegetable? Spinach and mushrooms are an excellent pairing as demonstrated by the recipe on page 78. Here some other ideas for vegetable duets. Use the following combinations in the master recipe on this page.

TWO-SQUASH LASAGNE: Cut 1 pound each zucchini and yellow squash into 1/2-inch dice; toss with 2 tablespoons olive oil, 1 minced onion, and salt and pepper; and roast in 400-degree oven, turning once or twice, until golden brown, about 30 minutes.

FENNEL-SWISS CHARD LASAGNE: Cut 1 large fennel bulb into thin strips; saute in deep pot with 2 tablespoons olive oil until tender, about 15 minutes; add 10 cups stemmed and shredded Swiss chard leaves; cover and cook until chard has wilted, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

ASPARAGUS-RED ONION LASAGNE: Trim tough ends from 1 pound asparagus; slice in half lengthwise and then into 1/2-inch pieces; toss with 2 thinly sliced red onions, 2 tablespoons olive oil, and salt and pepper to taste; roast in 400-degree oven, turning once or twice, until lightly browned, about 15 minutes.

Choosing Your Noodle

BOILING LASAGNE NOODLES before layering them in the pan with the sauce and cheese adds extra work and time. The invention of oven-ready (also called no-boil) lasagne noodles has greatly simplified the process.

Oven-ready lasagne noodles are precooked at the factory before they're dried. The moisture from the sauce softens the noodles as the lasagne bakes, especially if steam is trapped by covering the pan. Oven-ready noodles look a bit different from regular dried lasagne noodles. They are rippled all over, not just at the edges. The accordionlike pleats relax as the pasta rehydrates in the oven, allowing the noodles to elongate. Since the noodles will swell in the oven as they soften, leave a little room around the edges of the pan and between each noodle.

There are two types of oven-ready lasagne noodles. Most supermarkets stock American brands that are long and narrow. Three of these noodles, which measure 7 inches long and 3 1/2 inches wide, will make a single layer in a 13 by 9-inch lasagne pan when they swell in the oven.

Square oven-ready lasagne noodles from Italy taste good, but they are designed to fit into an 8-inch square pan. (The noodles are sold with two disposable pans.) Most Americans make lasagne for a crowd, and will find this size inconvenient.

If you want to make the recipes starting on page 77 with conventional or whole-wheat lasagne noodles, just bring 4 quarts of water to boil in a large pot. Add the noodles (since some will break, add a few more than the 12 noodles the recipes call for) and salt to taste. Cook until the pasta is almost al dente, 8 to 10 minutes. Drain the noodles and transfer them to a large bowl filled with ice water to keep them from softening further. When cool, lift the noodles from the water and use, 3 to a layer, to assemble a lasagne. Bake the lasagne uncovered for 25 to 30 minutes at 375 degrees.

Jack Bishop is the food editor of Natural Health and the author of several cookbooks including The Complete Italian Vegetarian Cookbook (Chapters/Houghton Mifflin, 1997).