Australia's Fraser Island

Eliza Fraser clung to the stem of the stricken vessel, waiting for daylight to reveal its position. Sometime around 8:30 p.m. on May 22, 1836, the Stirling Castle struck a reef off the east coast of Australia. Once stuck, the driving winds that had eagerly propelled the ship along became an enemy and began to tear it apart.

When daylight arrived, Eliza, her husband Captain James Fraser, his nephew and a crew of 16 men boarded a longboat and pinnace, both leaking badly. According to Eliza, they were afloat for some three weeks before landing on what was then known as Great Sandy Island. Once ashore, many native aboriginals met them. Eliza claims to have been treated terribly, but was eventually rescued from the island. Her husband, however was not so fortunate. According to some sources, he died from a spear wound and lies in an unknown grave. The island now bears their name.

Although the name of the island has changed from the native K'gari to Great Sandy to Fraser, everything is much the same. True, aboriginals no longer roam the sandy beaches, fishing and digging clams. But the pristine beauty of this magnificent sand island remains almost unchanged since first sighted by Captain James Cook 230 years ago.

Located on Australia's east coast, Fraser Island, made almost entirely of sand, is the world's largest sand island. Placed on the World Heritage List in 1992, it ranks among our Earth's unique places. Being an easy two-hour drive north of Brisbane, a major capital city, makes it readily accessible to both local and overseas visitors. Most of this 72-mile-long island comprises the Great Sandy National Park, only 3 percent being privately owned. Several hundred people reside permanently on Fraser Island, many of them involved in tourism in one way or another Four or five places offer resort-style accommodations, gas, food and ice.

Spread over 400,000 acres, the topography of Fraser Island varies, from brilliant white beaches to cool peaceful rain forests, towering sand dunes, breathtaking and colorful sand cliffs, mangrove swamps, dense heath and eucalyptus forests. The island's sand dunes, among the tallest in the world, reach 800 feet above sea level. Strong ocean winds continually blow them inland, slowly obliterating everything in their path. Forests disappear under the massive dunes, and at least one lake, Lake Wabby, is parado)dcally being swallowed by the very dune that formed it.

Among the most magnificent sights on the island are the inland freshwater lakes. Half of the world's perched lakes are found on Fraser island. Perched lakes are just that - perched high above the water table in the sandy dunes. Some are so clear you can see 30 feet down or more. Others might remind you of a giant cup of tea, stained in shades of brown, red or black by tannin that has leached out of dead vegetation. These curious lakes were filled and are maintained almost solely by what rain actually falls on the surface.

The words "sand island" may conjure up images of a desert, but Fraser island is far from that. Rain forests actually thrive here, mystifying scientists and botanists worldwide. Eco-tourism being the main emphasis on the island, the abundant wildlife always attracts the interest of visitors. The famous Australian brumby (wild horse) inhabits Fraser Island. A few Arabians and Clydesdales, escaped from a horse-- and-cattle run years ago, form the basis for the population. Currently only about 20 still live on the island, but there is no more beautiful sight than a mare and her colt frolicking in the surf.

Several other Australian icons can be found on Fraser island. Wild dingoes roam free. Being isolated from the coast, their bloodline is the purest of any eastern dingo population. While they don't live on the island, kangaroos occasionally swim across from the mainland for a visit. The Wallaby, a small cousin of the kangaroo, does live there, as well as goannas, frill neck lizards and bearded dragons. Sadly, there are no longer any koalas on the island. It is believed that the aboriginals hunted the remaining few early last century. There's good news for bird-watchers: More than 300 species frequent the island.

Though the interior lakes are too sterile to support much aquatic life, turtles abound, and some lakes do have small fish. During mating season, giant sea turtles come ashore on the northern shore. Migrating humpback whales are seen offshore from August through October. Many people come to the area each year to watch these majestic creatures jump and leap in the ocean waves.

Now that you're convinced you need to visit Fraser Island, how do you go about it? Day trips are available from the mainland; there is one luxury resort and several holiday-style accommodations on the island. But nothing compares to camping as the best way to experience this breathtaking wilderness. Such a trip can actually be planned quite easily before you leave the States.

Dirty Weekends, a Brisbane-based company, rents sport-utility vehicles (SUV) and off-road travel trailers. Owner Brad McCarthy can provide all the gear you'll need for an RV adventure of a lifetime. The trailers come equipped with everything except food and linens. Also I strongly recommend his book, Dirty Weekends, which is full of tips and hints regarding Fraser Island and off-road beach travel, as well as other destinations within easy reach of Brisbane.

You must have an SUV to navigate the island, as well as an off-road travel trailer. (They are known as caravans in Australia.) A small 4x4 motorhome is another option, but not as good as the truck/trailer combination, which allows you to leave camp set up while you explore the island.

Whichever means you choose for your visit, the island is reached by ferry from the mainland. The barge Rainbow Venture runs from Inskip Point, just north of Rainbow Beach, to Hook Point at the southern tip of the island. Because the barge runs continuously during the day, booking isn't necessary except during peak periods. A vehicle permit must be obtained, and it's slightly cheaper if purchased before arriving on the island.

Campers can choose between two private campgrounds and seven within the national park, complete with formal campsites, picnic tables, barbecues, showers (some with pay hot water), toilets and tap water. Camping is also allowed along the beaches except where signs prohibit. Those who wish such seclusion must be prepared to do without facilities.

Upon reaching the island, I suggest that you first find a place to camp, whether in one of the campgrounds or on the beach, especially during peak season when the campgrounds fill up quickly. Rangers on duty at Central Station can give advice on campsites. Except in private campgrounds, you must have a camping permit, available wherever you purchase your vehicle permit.

Some of the campgrounds provide a limited amount of wood for campfires, but visitors are encouraged to use fuel stoves. If you want a fire every night, you'll need to bring your own firewood. Park rangers discourage using deadwood found on the island, as decaying tree matter is very necessary to enrich the sandy soil. Preserving Fraser Island's unique beauty is essential. The 300,000 yearly visitors to Fraser Island come during all seasons. Australian school holidays are particularly busy, especially during Christmas and Easter.

The semitropical climate means that intense summer winters can be quite chilly, with nighttime temperatures dipping into the low 30s. Australia, being in the Southern Hemisphere, has winter weather in June, July and August.

There are many places to explore on Fraser Island. The island, essentially a sponge, soaks up the 60-plus inches of annual rainfall. That explains the 200 inland lakes and myriad freshwater creeks. it's hard to imagine that this crystal-- clear water, bubbling up from the water table, fell as rain up to 200 years ago.

With more than 70 miles of sandy beaches, it's easy to find a spot to yourself. Mile after mile of spectacular colored sand cliffs line 75 Mile Beach on the eastern side of the island. Only a rusted shell remains of the Maheno, a steamer beached in 1935 by a rare winter hurricane, but it is still worth a look.

Ocean swimming isn't recommended because of sharks, riptides and fireweed, except at the Champagne Pools during low tide. For freshwater swimming, crystal-clear Eli Creek on the eastern beach forms a natural waterslide as it makes its way to the ocean.

Driving on the beach at low tide will thrill every visitor. it's perfectly legal, yet somehow gives the feeling you're doing something you shouldn't. The beaches are technically highways, with rules applying and, at peak times, they can certainly resemble highways. There are also miles of sandy inland tracks.

Surf fishing, one of the most popular sports, draws thousands just for that purpose. Anglers regularly catch taylor, dart, whiting and brim, to name a few, off the beach year-round.

It is thought that when the Frasers and their crew struggled ashore in 1836, some 2,000 to 3,000 aboriginals inhabited the island. They thrived here, for early accounts describe them as being very handsome and well-built. They feasted on eugaries, a type of clam, leaving behind large piles of shells known as middens. Also remaining are gunyah and canoe trees, whose bark had been removed in large sections for use as canoes and hut roofs. The wind sometimes reveals the only other hint of the island's original owners - stone tools long buried under the sand.

Walking trails leading to some of the island's most spectacular spots vary from short boardwalks to overnight hikes. Only experienced hikers should attempt bushwalking off the roads and trails. Be sure to take a map, compass, food, water and appropriate clothing.

Plan on spending a minimum of three days, although it will take a week or longer to explore the entire island. Once there, you'll want to swim in every lake, drive every track and climb every dune. Those who visit are forever captivated by this pristine wilderness that has been tamed just enough to make it a wonderful place for a holiday. TL Tourism Queensland; www destination queensland.com. CIRCLE 209 oN READER SERVICE CARD.

IF You Go: Off-road travel trailer rental: $350/week.

SUV: $170/day; Includes insurance.

RAM driving permit for Fraser Island:

$30 and is good for one month. Available at Queensland Parks and Wildlife, Rainbow Beach Road, Rainbow Beach.

Barge to Fraser Island: $45; return trip on the Rainbow Venture, departing from Rainbow Beach.-B.E.

Dirty Weekends; dirtyweekends.com.au and motorama.com.au.

Copyright T L Enterprises, Inc. Apr 2002
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