greatest show on Earth, The

Tucked into Baraboo, Wisconsin, is the world's largest circus museum

Surprises await you in Baraboo, a splendid little town of 10,000 friendly souls tucked away in south-central Wisconsin, 3 1/2 hours northwest of Chicago, 12 miles south of the Wisconsin Dells.

Baraboo. It rolls across your tongue like the first swallow of a creamy root beer float-lingering sensations tickling your toes, recalling memories of warm afternoons and exotic Americana where live performers display skills that defy the impossible.

The circus is in town. A moment of pleasure with lasting memories. The circus to Baraboo is like climbing the Alps to the Swiss, skiing to Utahans, cliff diving to the Acapulquenos and surfing to Hawaiians. In Baraboo, the circus is always in town.

It all began when the innovative Ringling brothers, the greatest showmen of their era, began their circus spectacular in Baraboo in 1884 with three horses, a hyena and a troupe of 21. From a humble, small-town, Midwestern background, the Ringlings made good on their boyhood dream of starting their own circus.

They settled in and the town became their circus home for 34 historic years. The troop would return to Baraboo at the end of the performing summer season to develop and refine the next season's show, The Ringlings purchased their major competitor, the Barnum & Bailey Circus, and later merged the show giants into one huge three-ring enterprise. For decades, the Ringlings' special 100-car train and big top that held 10,000 people were synonymous with the thrill of the American circus. Today, Ringling Bros. and Barnum & Bailey still tour as "The Greatest Show on Earth. "

The buildings and barns along the Baraboo River are now the five-star, 50-acre Circus World Museum, owned by the State Historical Society of Wisconsin and operated by the Circus World Museum Foundation Inc. Opened in 1959, the museum-largest in the world dedicated to circus life-is not a zoo or an amusement park, but a revered National Historic Landmark with more energy than a Midwest thunderstorm.

The big top, a one-hour performance with the smell of sawdust, cotton candy and popcorn, and the tang of thrills and spangles, is announced by a snappy live concert band and a herald's trumpet. The performers, who must be bursting with circus gypsy genes, and probably began at eight months of age juggling their baby bottles while balancing on the edges of their cribs, sport exotic names such as Zerbini, Barreda and SaLoutos.

The tent is alive with prankster clowns playing to the audience. Incredible Hungarian acrobats seem to have nerves of steel with muscles to match. A Russian and Yank juggling duo are unmatched and can juggle anything they can hold. A trapeze act leaves you light-headed. Elephants tramp into the ring guided by the Barreda family; Jorge, Lou Ann and seven-year-old daughter Julia, who must have been born on one of their five pachyderms and is as fearless as the Caped Crusader Mom, Lou Ann, is the daughter of the legendary American clown, Lou Jacob, who performed for many decades with The Greatest Show on Earth.

Before or after the big top performances, guests browse through the C.P Fox Wagon Restoration Center, where there are informative exhibits and craftspeople at work on the circus parade wagons. Circus World Museum has more than 170 circus parade wagons, all beautifully restored and noted as the world's largest collection.

With a little imagination you can hear them rumbling down Main Street USA. The circus has arrived. A sign reads, "No PICKPOCKETS-NEVER ON SUNDAY-WE ALWAYS PAY OUR BILLS." Riding on the parade wagons could be Pawnee Bill, a Hippopotamus from the River Nile; Delno Fritz, who deftly swallows swords; 7-foot 11-inch Anna Swan; 25-inch-tall General Tom Thumb and tottering clowns on towering stilts.

Intriguing circus-legend exhibits, complete with pictures, are designed for the family, with facts right out of the record books. Throughout the day the place is jumping with everything from a six-horse team demonstration, a band concert and parade, to a guided tour of the wagon collection and circus music presentations.

At 1:30 p.m. kids can learn how to be the class clown at the Kids' Clown Show. Maybe not a great idea.

Another encounter is with the elephants, an endearing symbol of circus lore. Audiences learn about the relationship between the animals and their owners. Then the fun increases when they do their daily splash-around in the Baraboo River that skirts through the complex.

Downtown Baraboo on the Square, check out the resplendent Al Ringling Theatre dating to 1915, inspired by the Grand Opera House of the Palace of Versailles near Paris.

It's Midwestern hands-on fun. They throw down the welcome mat with a big circus smile, and you can't help but feel good. TL

Baraboo Area Chamber of Commerce, (800) BARABOO.

Circus World Museum, 426 Water Street, Baraboo, Wisconsin 53913-2597; (608) 356-8341; 24 hour circus information line, (608) 356-0800. Web site is: www. circus worldmuseum.com. Exhibit facilities are open year-round.

Al Ringling Theatre, 136 Fourth Avenue, Baraboo, Wisconsin 53913; (608) 3568864; recorded movie/program information line (608) 356-8080.

Wisconsin Tourism; (800) 432-TWP

CIRCLE 212 ON READER SERVICE CARD.

Copyright T L Enterprises, Inc. Feb 2000
Provided by ProQuest Information and Learning Company. All rights Reserved