West Texas wind

Rockin' and rollin' in Guadalupe National Park has nothing to do with music

TRAVEL

My fifth-wheel trailer is rocking back and forth, and ss ishing from side to sidc to side. Will it break in two? I wonder as I lie bundled up in bed, what will it feel like when my trailer tips over on its side? Will I scream? Will I cry? What about all of my pictures and research papers? Will they end up in east Texas? Forget about my things, will I be able to get out of my "house" alive? And if I do, where will I go in my flannel pajamas?

The wind roars through the canyon: It's il freight train barreling don^n on me, and I am stuck on the tracks fiozoll in the train's headlight. Actually, I'm too sick to move Too sick to care. I'm seasick on land.

Seasick on land? The wind calms for a second and I think how ironic it is that I ti ilL Gl seasick at Guadalupe Mountains National Park. In a wa); it makes sense. ConsideT its past, lt, S it's actually no sulpr' t10 SlUe. "Why?`' you ask. Because, when you camp in the Guadalupe Mountains, when you hike its trails, photograph its wildflowers and other plant life, observe its wildlife, you are, in essence, exploring what was once an undersea reef. I survive the 100-mph winds-as does everyone else camped at Pine Springs Campground-and spend a week exploring the park during its 25th anniversary year, astonished by this ancient marine fossil reef.

Formed during the Permian Age, about 250 million years ago, an immense tropical sea once covered vast portions of present-day northern New Mexico, western Texas and southeastern New Mexico. During the millions of years that followed, the main reef builders-calcareous sponges, algae and other limesecreting marine organismscombined to form the 400mile-long, horseshoe-shaped Capitan Reef. More time passed: Sometimes the reef was above sea level, and sometimes it was under it. Eventually, the sea receded and the reef was buried in a dense quilt of salts and other potassium-rich minerals. Again, millions of years passed, the reef buried until a mountain-building uplift revealed a portion of it.

Islands in the northernmost reaches of the Chihuahuan Desert, today the Guadalupe Mountains, share the distinction of being part of the world's most extensive limestone fossil reef with two other mountain ranges-Apache and Glass-both located to the south.

In current times, the only ancient snails, clams or sponges that you'll see are fossils unearthed by researchers. But the Guadalupes remain rich in flora and fauna. In fact, the national park's high mountains, deep canyons and wide desert boast of more than 900 species of plants, 60 types of mammals, 289 kinds of birds, 55 species of reptiles and amphibians and 11,000 types of insects.

The 86,415-acre park was deemed worthy of protection and recognition when Congress designated it as such in 1966. However the park wasn't opened to the public until 1972. On a special note, more than half of its acreage-46,850 acres-is under special wilderness protection.

Although the best way to really see the Guadalupes is to hike the park's trails, you can easily see one of the most prominent and interesting features-El Capitan-from the highway. A couple of picnic areas along Highway 62/180 allow folks to stop and stare in awe at this, the southernmost feature of the Guadalupe Mountain Range. An impressive sight it is!

The north-south range is steep and rugged, but there are flatter trails heading up the west-east canyons that the whole family can enjoy. At McKittrick Canyon, for instance, there's a short nature trail, and you'll find miles of flat trails along the canyon to the historic Pratt Cabin. Often called "the most beautiful spot in Texas," the canyon is especially colorful in the fall when deciduous trees within it, like maple and oak, paint a rainbow of colors. At the Headquarters Visitor Center, you'll find a paved, wheelchair-accessible trail with trailside exhibits that allow you to read about what you are seeing as you meander to the Pinery (ruins of a Butterfield Trail stagecoach station). Portions of the El Capitan Trail are moderately strenuous, but provide a walk through the Chihuahuan Desert to the base of El Capitan for a close-up look at the monolith. If you're quiet and hike early in the morning or late in the day, you might see herds of deer as well. In addition, look for easy trails leading to both Manzanita and Smith springs from historic Frijole Ranch.

A moderate hike up Devil's Hall should be seriously considered. Heading up Pine Springs Canyon, you may see deer, and a staircase of natural rock near the end of the trail delights hikers of all ages. About 4.2 miles round-trip, the trail is very rocky-wear sturdy hiking boots.

Those more inclined to hiking steep trails will find a whole slew of them. Of course, there's Guadalupe Peak, the highest peak in Texas and a must-do for all peak baggers. It's a 3,000foot climb in elevation from the campground to the 8,749-foot summit, but the 4.2-mile trail (one-way) passes through some of the most spectacular scenery-with wonderful views from start to finish-that I hardly noticed I was climbing. If you'd rather enjoy the summit at sunrise or sunset, I'd recommend lugging your backpack (and water) to the Guadalupe Peak Campground. It's a mere 1,000 feet below the summit and the views are outstanding.

Another must for those who enjoy more difficult trails is a jaunt to The Bowl. If you'd rather ascend something less steep and return via the steepest route, walk clockwise about 9 miles from the campground, heading up the Tejas Trail to the Bowl Trail, continuing up to Hunter Peak for a fine view, then down the knee-jarring Bear Canyon Trail. Near Hunter Peak you'll have access to The Bowl, a lush conifer forest of Douglas fir and other high-elevation species, a total contrast to the surrounding desert. Serious geology buffs will want to hike the Permian Reef Trail, with stop markers that can be used with a geology guidebook available at the visitors center. Excellent views of McKittrick Canyon are another reward for hiking more than 8 miles round trip and gaining 2,000 feet in elevation. Several trails also take off from Dog Canyon, located in the remote northern region of the park.

Backpacking is allowed and encouraged, although trips are usually limited by how much water a hiker can carry (at eight pounds per gallon). A hiker needs to carry a minimum of one gallon per day. There are more than 80 miles of trails and 10 backcountry campgrounds. All overnight backpackers must obtain a free Backcountry Use Permit, issued at the Headquarters Visitor Center and Dog Canyon Ranger Station. Typically, there are plenty of campsites available, although they may fill during spring break, fall colors and holiday weekends.

While spring visitors can expect high winds-70-mph gusts are quite common-I experienced everything from calm days to 100-mph blasts. I thought spring a grand time to visit as it was warm enough most of the days with cool nights. Hiking was a real treat, with tiny wildflowers making their debut. Fall is another special time in the park, with its vibrant colors attracting folks from around the country.

Summer produces locally severe thunderstorms accompanied by dangerous lightning strikes and possible flash flooding in the canyons. In the winter, look for mild, cool days and cold nights. High winds and freezing rain are common in the high country, with snow accumulations of 3 to 6 inches.

You can park your rig at Pine Springs Campground, elevation 5,840 feet. There are 20 tent sites and 18 RV sites (no hookups) and one wheelchair-accessible site, available on a first-come, first-served basis. Restrooms have sinks and flush toilets; there are no showers. The Dog Canyon Campground is at 6,320 feet. Amenities are the same, although there is a limit of four RV sites and nine tent sites. Both campgrounds charge a fee. Leashed pets are permitted only in drive-in campgrounds: They are banned from trails. Horses are allowed on most of the trails. Stock corrals are available at Dog Canyon and Frijole Ranch, by reservation only. All stock trips must start and end at one of these corrals. Horses are not permitted overnight in the backcountry

Scenic drives are limited and lead to trailheads only. A 7-mile road leads to Williams Ranch, but is only open to fourwheel-drive vehicles. Ask for a gate key at the visitor center.

The park is open year-round, and the main exhibit area at Pine Springs offers park exhibits, a slide program and bookstore. Helpful rangers answer all questions and provide summer evening programs in the campground amphitheater

You'll find the nearest services, including an RV park with full hookups, in White's City, 35 miles northeast on U.S. Highway 62/180. TL

Guadalupe Mountains National Park, Box 400, Salt Flat, Texas 79847; (915) 8283251. Web site: www.nps.gov/gumo

Copyright T L Enterprises, Inc. May 1999
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