10-minute tech

Corner Protection

The final step in winterizing our trailer is to cover it with a plastic tarp. I use an inexpensive blue tarp that can be purchased at any building supply or hardware store, although my tip will work just as well for covers that are designed specifically for RVs. After the first or second winter's use, the tarp wears through at the top where it rests on the awning posts on one side and on the ends of the rain gutters on the other. This is usually due to the wind causing the tarp to move and abrade at these sharp pressure points. I purchased two 4-inch- diameter, semi-smooth-surface Styrofoam balls from a craft store for 49 cents each. I sawed each in half, pressed them on at these pressure points, then hollowed out the inside at the indentations using a jackknife. I then press-fit these half-balls into place on the protrusions and secured them with a length of duct tape. No more holes in the tarp.

J. BARD ANDERSON LONG GREEN, MARYLAND

Defrosting Secret

Defrosting the freezer in our RV has never been high on our list of fun things to do. The ice at the back of the compartment has to be clobbered and pulverized into submission. But, the last time I defrosted the freezer, I dried out the compartment and taped a sheet of thin plastic across the rear, where the ice had formed. The plastic sheet was cut from a new, white trash bag. The frost and ice came back as it always has, but this time it formed on the plastic sheet instead of the freezer wall. Months later, when it was time to defrost again, I simply removed the frozen foods, pulled on the edge of the plastic sheet and all the ice and frost fell off. No pounding, no scraping, no kidding. Don't cover any of the fins; use the plastic on flat surfaces only. JIM COOK, LIVINGSTON, TEXAS

Parking Guide

When parking my 30-foot fifthwheel trailer beside my house, I rely on a system that works without a helper. The parking space is on a concrete pad and the eaves make for a very tight fit; maneuvering is very difficult without guidance. I fixed the problem by painting a 2-inch line on the concrete in the exact location of the arc that the RV's wheels will have to follow. The line starts at the point where I have to start the backing process and is painted so that the left wheels can be easily seen by the driver from his/her window or mirror. At the spot where the RV's wheels should be stopped, a short line is painted at a right angle, allowing the driver to know exactly where to stop.

To find the proper position, park the RV in the exact spot where you store itwith help, of course. Wash the concrete pad to remove all tire tracks and allow to dry. Mark the position of the wheels on the concrete. With help, slowly pull or drive the RV out of the storage space to the point where you start your backing process. Paint a 2-inch-wide line (or wider, if you wish) down the center of the tire track left on the concrete. At the point where you marked the wheel position, paint a right angle line where the wheel should stop.

Using this method, I can back the trailer along within 12 inches of the house eaves, every time, without help. If you are not parking on pavement, you can use stakes driven into the ground, linked with rope.

HARVEY E. MARSHALL, ATASCADERO, CALIFORNIA

Propane Cylinder Lock

Like many trailer owners who reside in snow country, I prefer to store my rig during the winter in a facility with a more temperate climate, many miles from my home. Having heard of cases where the propane cylinders have been stolen from stored trailers, I decided to make things as difficult as possible for would-be thieves. I had a chain link welded to the end of the big wing nut that secures the cylinders into position on the trailer A-frame. I then threaded a short length of chain through the link and the valve guard on the top of the cylinder and attached a padlock. The wing nut is now virtually impossible to turn. Make sure the other end of the long threaded rod is tack welded to the baseplate.

DIRK P. WOESTENBURG, CHESTER, CALIFORNIA

Free Distilled Water

We have two deep-cycle batteries in our Airstream trailer and one in our tow vehicle, and they all need water now and then. We always use distilled water but it's not always easy to find while on the road. For the last few years, I have been getting the water free"from the tube that drains the condensation while the roof-mounted air conditioner is in use. This tube exits under the trailer so I just position a clean container so that the opening catches the dripping water It actually fills rather quickly, and we never run out of water for our batteries.

THOMAS J. RONEY, GRALYING, MICHIGAN

Kneel and Stabilize

Although most of the stabilizer jacks on trailers have some type of handle for turning the screw for lowering or raising the mechanism, we found that an old bit brace is really comfortable to use. Once you locate a brace-I use one that belonged to my father-cut the appropriate-size socket off an old lug-nut wrench and install it in the end of the brace. The brace I have ratchets in both directions or can be locked in place. To save my knees, I cut a piece of carpet into a 12 x 12-inch section and use it to kneel on while working the stabilizer jacks. Works great for us older folks.

CECIL K. FARNHAM, MELBOURNE, FLORDIA

10-MINUTE TECH

Trailer Life readers are invited to submit material for publication in 10-Minute Tech. Topics may cover any aspect of RVing, ranging from brief articles to tips that save effort, time or money. Include diagrams (hand-drawn, if necessary) or photographs (no color slides) if needed for clarification, plus your Social Security number. Payment ranges from $25 to $100. Unused submissions will not be returned. Mail entries to 10-Minute Tech, Trailer Life, 2575 Vista Del Mar, Ventura, California 93001. While editors screen all material, TL Enterprises Incorportaed does not take responsibility for accuracy.

Copyright T L Enterprises, Inc. Apr 1998
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