Breezing along the Oregon Coast: the surf's rhythmic cadence washes away stress in this land of sandy beaches, quaint harbors, and classic lighthouses

Stretching 363 miles from Astoria to Brookings, Oregon is blessed with a coastline of scenic beauty and variety, unmatched on this continent. Pacific waves pounding volcanic rock form the "seastacks" and other unique monoliths. Abundant rainfall creates lush green forests.

Spellbinding scenery unfolds as Pacific Coast Scenic Byway All-America, Road (Highway 101) winds through fishing villages, past towering sand dunes, and along dense coastal forests.

While the drive is breathtaking, this scenic coast begs closer exploration. Nearly 100 pretty state parks and day use areas invite picnickers, families, and photographers. Children spend hours building sand castles, and dogs romp playfully in the surf.

A string of quaint beach towns dots the coast from north to south. At the mouth of the Columbia River, the historic town of Astoria is the site of Fort Clatsop, home to the Lewis and Clark expedition during the winter of 1805-06, as well as the Columbia River Maritime Museum and the Astoria Column, a hilltop tower depicting local history.

Seaside is known for the Promenade seawalk that separates town and beach. Cannon Beach, an artist-friendly village filled with photogenic gray-shingled buildings and bright flowers overflowing from planter boxes, is dominated by Haystack Rock, a 235-foot-high offshore monolith.

Heading south from Portland, husband Bob and I stopped for fresh cheddar cheese cards and ice cream cones at the famous Tillamook Cheese Factory, where visitors watch cheese production through large windows.

Multi-generation teams fly kites in the brisk Pacific breeze at Lincoln City. The popular oceanside town with seven miles of public beaches is positioned where warm equatorial air and cold polar air mix. Different shapes, colors, and sizes of kites soar, dart, and dance during June and September kite-flying festivals.

After a beach walk, we hunkered down to watch shell collectors and tail-wagging dogs from our oceanfront suite at the Shilo Inn. When the fog rolled in, the gas fireplace created a cozy ambiance.

While this beautiful coast is the perfect setting for bird watching and tide pool exploration, the Pacific waters are too cold for swimming. Jeans and sweat-shirts are preferred beach walking garb most days.

A year-round destination, visitors find less traffic and lower lodging rates mid-September through June. Rhododendrons and azaleas create a riot of color in spring. In early May, migrating gray whales and their babies play near the beaches, just beyond where the waves break. July and August are the busy months. During winter storms, visitors watch 30-foot waves crash on rocks from snug oceanside rooms with fireplaces.

People we met in shops and eateries made our vacation memorable. At Devil's Punchbowl State Park, we stopped for tasting at Flying Dutchman, a boutique winery, where owner Dick Cutler invited us to enjoy the incredible ocean view from his deck.

When we checked into the Hallmark Resort in friendly Newport, we found a bonus view of the Yaquina Head lighthouse from our balcony.

With two lighthouses set on majestic cliffs, Newport is a photographer's mecca. The 93-foot Yaquina Head lighthouse towers over a bird refuge, visitor center, and fantastic tide pools that beg exploration. Here we discovered the world of sea urchins, starfish, and sea anemones. A few miles south, the Yaquina Bay lighthouse is said to be haunted. Both lighthouses are open to the public.

Newport is a laid-back town where tourists can mingle with friendly locals. When we had breakfast at Big Guy's Diner on Highway 101, Mayor Mark Jones served our seafood omelets and poured coffee.

A Newport visit is not complete without exploring the working bayfront's attractions, galleries, and eateries. At the Oregon Coast Aquarium, visitors walk through a 200-foot clear underwater tunnel that snakes through three ocean habitats. Being surrounded by sharks, skates, and stingrays is an exhilarating sensation. Daily "keeper talks," scheduled feedings, a touch tank, and behind-the-scenes tours enrich the educational experience.

Tide pool and aquarium exploration whet one's appetite. Delightful aromas from seafood restaurants permeate Newport's bayfront. Leading the pack in rustic charm and famous clam chowder are the original Mo's and Mo's Annex.

While enjoying our tasty Brucewich (shrimp between cheddar cheese grilled on home-baked bread) at Mo's Annex, owner Cindy McEntee and her family delighted us with their Grandmother Mo's colorful history, highlighted by a visit from Bobby and Ethel Kennedy. After lunch, we watched charter boats weigh their catch from the deck behind Mo's Annex.

Wanting a taste of ocean action, we took a two-hour narrated sea life cruise that provided close-up views of the commercial fishing fleet in Yaquina Bay. An onboard naturalist helped kids throw out crab rings as we passed under the spectacular bridge. As Captain Mark skillfully navigated choppy ocean swells, we watched a gray whale spout a plume of water before it breached.

That night we feasted on sizzling steak and fresh lobster at Shirley's on the Bay. Locals come here for homemade salad dressings, ribeye, hard crab, and huge portions of bread pudding loaded with nuts and cinnamon.

South of the charming village of Yachats, Cape Perpetua provides stunning Pacific views from its 803-feet summit overlook. Here we hiked through old-growth trees in a temperate rain forest. From the Visitor Center, we took a short walk to explore marine gardens at low tide. We watched the forces of nature that created Devil's Churn, where ocean spray flies as waves explode onto volcanic rock.

Just north of Florence, the famed Heceta Head Lighthouse is one of the most photographed in the U.S. A mile south of Heceta Head, Sea Lion Caves provides close-up views of Stellar sea lions in their natural setting. Florence is the northern gateway to intriguing coastal sand dunes. South of Florence, visitors ride dune buggies at Sandland Adventures.

Our Oregon Coast trip ended with a crescendo of dramatic beaches, rocky coves, and pounding waves along the 65 miles of southern coast between Port Orford and Brookings.

The most spectacular part of the coast, which extends for 11 miles north of Brookings, bears the name of Samuel Boardman, founder of Oregon's nationally recognized state park system. While exploring Boardman State Park, don't miss Arch Rock Point, Natural Bridges, and Lone Ranch Beach.

A beautiful finale for our coast visit was watching the sunset light show produced by Mother Nature at Harris Beach State Park, just north of Brookings.

Contact: Oregon Coast Visitors Association., (888) 628-2101; www.visit theoregoncoast.com.

Newport Chamber of Commerce, (800) 262-7814; www.newportchamber.org.

Lincoln City Visitor Bureau, (800) 452-2151; www.oregoncoast.org.

Lane County Visitors Assn., (800) 5475-445; www.VisitLaneCounty.org.

COPYRIGHT 2004 World Publishing, Co. (Illinois)
COPYRIGHT 2004 Gale Group