To Germany with gusto

TRAVEL

Bavaria is an enchanting break from the rest of the world

TRAVELING

TIP

When you are cleaning out your closet and find outfits that you liked but aren't in style, put them in your "travel" closet or a box. Do this each time, adding clothes to your stash for summer and winter months. Then, when you are ready to travel, you have a wardrobe selected. Wear these clothes on your trip, and instead of packing them after you wear them, leave them in your hotel room. Not only do you now have more room for purchases, you also have a lot less laundry to do upon your return.

THAD ALLTON/THE CAPITAL-JOURNAL

Trieburg Black Forest in Germany towers over houses built in its clearing.

PHOTOGRAPH BY BETSY GILLILAND/HERS KANSAS MAGAZINE

The German flag waves from a building.

By Kathy Smith

SPECIAL TO THE CAPITAL-JOURNAL

Germany is a country for people who can laugh heartily. And who can drink in the abundant beauty (and beer!) with gusto. The mountains seem higher, the forests seem taller, the food heartier than any other place.

I love Germany, but especially enchanting for me is Bavaria. The southernmost and largest state of Germany, Bavaria brings to mind images of Lederhosen, cowbells, mountains, beer gardens and brass bands. Romantic villages, large forests, fairy tale castles and vineyard-clad hills tug at your very soul.

Oktoberfest in Munich, which begins this month, is an event of monumental proportions --- from fun carnival rides and games to the 14 enormous beer "tents," where in 2002, 5.9 million visitors who drank 5.7 million liters of beer.

Imagine if you will, picnic tables lined up in a building with a capacity of several thousand. Everyone is laughing; traditional German music is playing in the background.

Not only are the beverages good, so is the food. Roast organic chicken, duck, goose, potato or cabbage dumplings and dozens of other Bavarian culinary specialties can be found at the world's largest fair.

While in Munich, a visit to the town square is a must. The Marienplatz has Neo-Gothic City Hall, which has the famous Glockenspiel with 43 bells and moving figures. A crowd gathers daily at 11 a.m., noon and 5 p.m. This is also a terrific place to have a cup of coffee or tea and people-watch.

During Advent, in preparation of Christmas, German cities take on a festive air. Nowhere else in the world will you find entire cities so devoted to celebrating the season. The aromas of gingerbread cookies, grilled sausages and potato pancakes fill the air. Choirs sing on the steps and balconies of historic town halls.

The Augsburg Christkindlmarkt is a village of stalls and little houses that fill the town hall square. The Rathaus is turned into a huge Advent Calendar, in whose windows the Augsburg Christmas Angels appear and play Christmas music.

The Christmas Market in Munich has been documented as early as 1310, which makes it one of Germany's oldest. It is on Marienplatz Square, where a huge tree resplendent with innumerable lights towers over. Bavarian arts and craft, especially carved creches, are popular during this month-long market.

The castles of Bavaria's "Dream King," Ludwig II, include Linderhof, and Neuschwanstein. Linderhof is reputed to have been his favorite and was modeled after the Petit Trianon in Versailles. The style of this castle is a mixture of Renaissance and baroque, with the characteristic lavish decoration of gilded cherubs, mirrors and painted ceilings. Allow at least a half-day to explore not only the castle but also the extensive gardens.

And while it would be impossible to cover every interesting and delightful aspect of Bavaria, I would be remiss if I didn't include Oberammergau. This tiny town hosts the famous Passion Play every 10 years --- the next in 2010 --- but during the rest of the time, it is the home of some of the world's most noted woodcarvers and craftsmen. It is worth stopping in this charming town.

Copyright 2003
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