Holidays 2002: YOU'LL BE ALL AT SEA IN MAJORCA

WHAT was the best thing about Majorca for me? No, it wasn't the scenery, or the two huge water parks. Nor was it the laid-back people or the crazy night life. It was the island's sea life.

Crabs, eels, urchins, anenomes, starfish and a zillion species of fish all jostle for your attention.

It's like Australia's Great Barrier Reef down there as you snorkel the days away in the warm water of the Mediterranean getting a bronzed back which fails to match a lillywhite front.

If only I could master snorkelling on my back!

We stayed at the Suncentre resort in Alcudia, a sweeping bay in north-west corner of the island.

And we discovered very quickly there was a small wooden pier about 50 yards from Alcudia Pins, which was a big draw with all forms of sea life. Son Kriss was soon claiming to have seen a dogfish "the size of my arm" while I was dumbstruck by the sight of a magnificent cent ray.

On day two we went out on a pedalo and had a great time diving off it as we continued our underwater adventure further out in the bay.

Speedboats also take the intrepid up on parachutes, out on water skis or drag them behind on banana boats - large inflatable sausages which you cling to for dear life to avoid a soaking.

There was also plenty going on at Alcudia Pins - nine four-storey blocks of 600 rooms that was home to around 2,400 other people as well as us.

The daily programme of events, includes children's clubs, sporting events and an impressive evening cabaret with a ventriloquist, singer and a magician on the bill during the week we were there.

Of course, you get the regular Brits-abroad features; bingo, talent contests, mini-discos... you love it or you hate it. And, to be frank, it's hard to escape the evening entertainment if you fancy an early night.

We went half board in an attempt to avoid housework - if you can get the children up for breakfast (8am-10am) it's certainly worth it. The evening meal (6pm-8pm) is an eat-till-you-pop extravaganza.

The atmosphere is busy and British rather than slow and Spanish; a week here won't be laid back, but it will certainly entertain, tan and relax you.

The sea is literally a stone's throw away and although there are only occasional waves it is breathtakingly clear.

Two loungers and an umbrella on the beach cost 4 while the towels go down on the ones by the poolside at dawn. Even though the Alcudia Pins stopped taking German tourists four years ago, the habit lingers on.

There are plenty of excursions. You can take a train journey through the mountains, tour ancient Majorca or take a submarine trip.

There are also two waterparks - Hydrapark, just 10 minutes from Alcudia Pins, and a vast affair called Aquacity on the other side of the island. Both are worth visiting for a day.

But not to be missed is The Sunshine Cruise. We left at 9.30am from nearby Port Alcudia, and all but flew to nearby Formentor - home of the rich and famous - on a catamaran with windows below water level.

The day was spent diving for bottles of champagne, leaping 12ft off the third deck of the boat and generally living the life of Robinson Crusoe with home comforts.

It cost about 16 each...and was easily the best day of the holiday.

Majorca is supposed to be over-commercialised, over-crowded, over- priced and over-sold. Not at Alcudia Pins it's not. And I'd go back like a shot...if only for the sea life.

THE FACTS: MAJORCA

AIRTOURS Summer Sun (0800 028 8808; www.mytravel.com) have seven nights at the Suncenter, Alcudia Pins, Majorca, from 429 per person (self-catering) and 539 per person (half board) for departures in May. Peak season departures (July/ August) cost around 669 per person, self-catering. There are limited number of free and reduced price child places . All prices include return flights, transfers and accommodation. Check for special deals. Further information: Spanish Tourist Office brochure line (09063 640 630 - premium rates).

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