Chef adds dash of Europe to American dishes

Paul Gstrein, executive chef at Bayside Restaurant in Newport Beach, describes his cooking as "modern American cuisine," but there's a definite international aspect to it.

This Austrian-born, classically trained chef says his cooking style uses French techniques and fresh ingredients inspired from around the world, but grown locally whenever possible.

Gstrein grew up in his family's hotel and resort, a business he says has been in his family for 400 years. They lived on the floor above the hotel's restaurant, which likely contributed to his decision at an early age to become a professional cook.

After completing his studies at Villa Blanca Culinary School in Innsbruck, where he honed classic French culinary techniques, he worked at a four-star restaurant in Hamburg, Germany, before moving to the United States at 21. He has worked for the Ghoukassian family, owners of Bayside Restaurant, for more than 16 years. His innovative dishes showcase well-balanced, bold flavor combinations, designed to delight the palate and the eye.

His Roasted Beet and Goat Cheese Torta is so popular, it stays on the menu year-round. In the spring and summer, he garnishes it with fresh pea shoots; in the fall and winter, he uses Belgian endive.

Q: With whom would you most like to "do lunch"? A: Eckart Witzigmann. He's a famous German chef who owned Aubergine Restaurant in Munich. He is retired now and lives in France. He modernized German cooking and has written many cookbooks.

Q: What's your favorite dish to make at home? A: I like to make fried chicken with breading, similar to Wiener schnitzel.

Q: What culinary gadget could you not cook without?

A: My 12-inch chef's knife. I pretty much do everything with it . . . and nobody else gets to touch it.

Q: What three ingredients could you not cook without?

A: First salt, then butter, then, garlic.

Q: When it comes to eating, what's your guilty pleasure?

A:A good, New York steak. I love the texture and flavor. For me, it's superior to a filet mignon.

Q: What's your favorite restaurant? A: The Gramercy Tavern in New York City. It's the best food I've had.

Q: What one cooking tip could you offer to readers to make their time in the kitchen easier?

A: Buy quality ingredients and keep the cooking simple.

Q: What's the biggest mistake you ever made while cooking?

A: When I cook, everything is ready to go, so it's hard to make a mistake. But one Valentine's Day, I made the menu too complicated. We had a huge crowd, five courses for 350 customers from 7 to 9. One dish had to be ready every two seconds, so if we made a mistake there was no way to catch up. The key is to know what customers want and to keep it simple.

ROASTED BEET AND GOAT CHEESE TORTAS Yield: 6 servings

3 large (baseball-size) red beets

Salt and pepper, to taste 1 cup fresh mint leaves 1 cup plus 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, divided 11 ounces goat cheese, at room temperature Freshly ground black pepper 2 shallots, minced 2 cups balsamic vinegar, reduced to a syrup (see cook's notes) 1 cup toasted walnut halves (see cook's notes) 1 bunch pea shoots or assorted baby lettuces

Cook's notes: To reduce balsamic vinegar, place in medium-sized, heavy-bottomed saucepan over low heat. Simmer until reduced in volume by about half or until it reaches a syrup-like consistency. To toast walnuts, place in single layer on baking sheet. Place in 350-degree oven for about 5 minutes or just until lightly toasted.

Procedure:

1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

2. Trim and wash beets. Season with salt and pepper. Wrap in aluminum foil and roast beets until tender, about 1 1/2-2 hours. Remove from oven and cool. Peel beets by rubbing with damp towel. Cut beets into 1/4-inch thick rounds. With a 2 1/2-inch ring mold or cookie cutter, cut beets into 12 equal rounds. Set aside. Dice remaining beet trimmings.

3. Place mint leaves and 1 cup olive oil in blender and pure. Strain through coffee filter. Set aside.

4. Place goat cheese and 1 tablespoon olive oil in bowl. Season with freshly ground black pepper. Mix well; if desired, place mixture in pastry bag fitted with large, plain tip.

5. In another bowl, mix diced beets, shallots, 1-2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar reduction (enough to lightly coat ingredients) and salt and pepper to taste.

6. Place ring mold in center of plate. Place 1 beet slice at bottom of ring. Spread a thin layer of goat cheese on top (or pipe it on). Add a small portion of diced beet mixture and spread evenly with back of spoon. Add another layer of goat cheese and cover with beet slice. Remove ring and repeat to make 6 servings. Drizzle each plate with some balsamic reduction and mint oil. Garnish with toasted walnuts and pea shoots.

Nutrition data per serving:

Calories 638 (86 percent from fat); 61.1 g fat (sat 13.8 g, mono 33.4 g, poly 10.9 g); protein 14 g; carbohydrates 13 g; fiber 2.89 g; cholesterol 24 mg; sodium 633 mg; calcium 125 mg.

Source: Executive Chef Paul Gstrein, Bayside Restaurant, Newport Beach

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