ON THE GRAPEVINE: Join the crusade

I'VE long been a crusader for Spain's many undervalued, underpriced and often undiscovered cheap red wines.

These must be the best value reds in the world today.

But where are the world's fastest improving wines coming from? This accolade must go to Spain's neighbour, Portugal.

The country has many things going against it - hardly any Cabernet, Merlot or Chardonnay, mainly unprouncable grape varieties and an almost manic desire for tradition.

But these very drawbacks can also be advantages.

Didn't we all feel we were being so adventurous when we started drinking Austrailian wine all those years ago?

But how many of us have drunk nothing but Cabernet and Chardonnay since?

Now the numerous, interesting indigenous varieties of Portugal give us a chance to be truly adventurous again.

The more far sighted wineries are now tempering tradition with modern technology, often paid for by EEC grants, and using up to date methods brought in by foreign winemakers.

Now there are super wines coming out of all regions of the country with exciting, adventurous flavours you've never come across before and prices usually hovering around pounds 5 -pounds 7.

Try the rich jammy fruit of the Douro Valley Port region - wines like Duas Quintas (a beauty) and Quinta de la Rosa or futher south the Joa Pires with its extra touch of bite and the Duc de Viseu Dao

Further south still in the Estramadura region is the Portado Tinto (Co- op & Oddbins) - one of the best value reds I've come across in a long time. And perhaps best of all is the Fonseca Periquita available at Tesco at just pounds 5.49.

And one thing is for certain. Whichever of these Portugese wines you try, when you come back for newer vintages in two or three years time they will be getting better and better.

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