Hooked on the Highlands

"WELL", said Dougie my ghillie as we set off down the path to the river, "the worst day's fishing is still better than the best day in the office.

"After 40 years on this river I still get all trembly when I hook a salmon, so you'll have a good time whatever happens."

I made my first hesitant cast into the frothing Thurso River, on the far north-west tip of Scotland.

"The Queen Mother used to fish here, ye ken," said Dougie.

I realised then that salmon fishing is no longer just the sport of the rich and privileged - pay your money and anyone can have a go.

You don't need any experience - the ghillie will teach you everything - but women, Dougie said, are far better learners than men. And they catch more fish.

On the second cast the line went taut and I was into my first salmon. For about 10 seconds. Then it was gone.

For the rest of the day, salmon leapt all around, but not another catch in sight.

The rest of the party did better, including one who got a 15lb salmon.

So I settled for listening to the sound of the curlews, the drumming of the snipe and the song of larks in the surprisingly mild weather.

My lack of success didn't matter at all in this tranquil place...being there was enough.

The next day we tried our hand at sea fishing on the Karen, a 45ft fishing boat based at Scrabster from which the world record shark of 507lb was caught.

No records for us but fish galore - some 40 each.

We fished beneath the spectacular rock stacks and cliffs of Dunnet Head, mainland Britain's most northerly point.

With haggis and neaps for lunch on board, all tackle included and excellent guidance from the skipper, the Karen was superb value at pounds 11 a head inclusive.

Thence to Loch Hope in search of sea trout. Plenty of hope but no fish on the wind-lashed water. "Ach well," said today's ghillie, "it's better than being at home arguing with the wife," as he accepted the offer of a "wee dram".

On the advice of local fishing guide and guru Bruce Sandison we transferred to a small trout loch leased by the hotel (just pounds 6 per day) with moderate success and magnificent scenery beneath Ben Loyal.

That evening the Port na Con restaurant was a perfect ending to a stress- free holiday.

The Scottish fishing experience is about much more than catching fish. It's about slowing down, enjoying the company, the scenery and the fresh air.

You sleep and eat well in modestly-priced hotels, arriving home refreshed.

Even if the Scottish fish aren't hooked on me, I'm hooked on Scotland.

FACT FILE

BRITISH AIRWAYS (0345 222 111) Gatwick-Inverness SuperSaver costs pounds 72 return in late-July. There's a three-hour drive to Thurso.

RIVER Thurso bookings: Eddie McCarthy (01847 831 591).

SEA Fishing on the Karen: Paul Gough (01847 895 009).

THE Ulbster Arms, Thurso: B&B from pounds 41 per person (01847 831 206).

THE Ben Loyal Hotel, Tongue: Rooms from pounds 28 per person (01847 611 216).

FISHING Tackle Hire: Graham, Inverness, about pounds 12 per day (01463 233 178).

BRUCE Sandison: Fishing Consultant (01847 611 274).

HIRING a ghillie costs about pounds 40 a day and greatly increases your chances of success.

FURTHER information: Scottish Tourist Board (0131 332 2433).

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