Chocolate: more than an obsession - Recipe

EVER SINCE SPANISH PRINCESS MARIA THERESA PREsented cocoa beans as an engagement gift to Louis XIV, chocolate has been a symbol of devotion and love. And no wonder: Intense yet sweet, comforting yet exciting, with a bittersweet edge that keeps us wanting more, it has all the makings of a passionate love affair. And for some of us, the affair has bordered on obsession.

Why exactly do we love chocolate so much? Maybe it's because cocoa is usually swirled into sugar and fat, two of our favorite substances. Maybe it's the smooth, velvety way it slides across the tongue and arouses the palate. Or maybe, like falling in love, it actually does something to the brain.

"Chocolate is a potent mood modifier," says Chris Kilham, author of Psyche Delicacies (Rodale, 2001) and Tales From The Medicine Trail (Rodale, 2000). "Chocolate boosts serotonin, the `feel-good' brain chemical, and helps to brighten mood. It contains phenylethylamine (PEA), a chemical that occurs in higher concentrations in the brain when you're in love and when you have an orgasm, and it contains anandamide, a canabanoid also found in marijuana."

But your love affair with chocolate doesn't have to be an illicit one. Besides its positive effects on mood, cocoa has other noted health benefits. What's bad about chocolate isn't the cocoa. In fact, even the saturated fat in cocoa, stearic acid, appears to be benign and unsaturated-like in its effects on our vascular system, so it doesn't contribute to atherosclerosis, as far as is known.

So indulge yourself in a guilt-free chocolate affair of your own with the following taste-tantalizing recipes.

AncientAztec Cacahuatl

Serves 4

Ancient Aztecans added vanilla and honey to
the Mayan's sacred beverage, xocolati, creating
a spicy-sweet beverage that packs a punch.
We've substituted milk for water to impart a
smoother, richer flavor.

1 cup water
1 tsp. ground, dried chili peppers,
  or to taste
2 whole vanilla beans
4 cups milk
2 oz. squares bitter, unsweetened
  bakers' chocolate
3 Tbsp. honey
4 sticks cinnamon bark

In small saucepan, combine water and dried chili
peppers. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to a
simmer. Add vanilla beans, and simmer, covered,
for 10 minutes. Strain liquid into a medium
pot. Add milk, and warm over medium-low heat
for 3 minutes. Add chocolate and honey, stirring
constantly, until chocolate is melted and mixture
is heated through. Serve in four individual mugs
with a cinnamon stick for stirring.
Raspberry Truffle Brownies

Makes 24

A deep, rich chocolate is key to these reduced-fat
brownies. Try Scharffen Berger, Valhrona,
Ghiradelli or another premium brand for the
richest flavor.

  1 cup sugar
  1 cup unsweetened cocoa powder
  2 eggs
  1 10-oz, jar natural raspberry preserves
  1 tsp. vanilla
  1 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. baking soda

Preheat oven to 325 [degrees]F. Spray a 9 x 13-inch
baking pan with non-stick cooking spray and
set aside.

In large bowl, combine sugar and 3/4 cup
plus 1 Tbsp. cocoa, and stir to mix. Using a
hand beater, beat in eggs. Add raspberry jam
1/4 cup at a time, and beat on low speed until
mixture is creamy, 4 to 5 minutes. Stir in vanilla.

In medium mixing bowl, combine flour, salt
and baking soda. Add cocoa mixture to flour
mixture, and mix just until ingredients are combined;
do not overmix. Pour batter into prepared
pan and bake at 325 [degrees] F for 30 to 35 minutes,
until brownies spring back to the touch. Cool
completely. Using a wet knife, cut into 24
squares. Dust with remaining cocoa, and serve.
Black-Bottom Chocolate Pie

Serves 8

Fat-free milk and egg whites make this creamy,
decadent dessert a guilt-less treat. For even more
fat and calorie savings, substitute a prepared low-fat
pie crust for the chocolate crumb version.

    1 cup skim milk
    2 cups canned evaporated skim milk
1-1/2 cups sugar
  1/3 cup cornstarch
  1/2 tsp. salt
  1/2 cup unsweetened cocoa powder
    2 eggs
    2 egg whites
    1 tsp. vanilla
    1 9-inch chocolate crumb pie crust
      (see recipe below) or prepared
      reduced-fat pie crust
Low-fat whipped topping
Chocolate curls for garnish

In medium saucepan, combine skim milk and
evaporated skim milk. Whisk in sugar, cornstarch
and salt. Bring to near boil and whisk in
cocoa. Reduce heat and simmer for 15 minutes,
whisking frequently.

In medium bowl, beat together eggs and egg
whites. Add about 1 cup of cocoa mixture to beaten
eggs, whisking constantly. Return egg and
cocoa mixture to saucepan. Increase heat and
bring to a boil and cook, stirring constantly, for 1
minute. Remove from heat and stir in vanilla.

Pour chocolate mixture into chocolate
crumb crust (or prepared, reduced fat pie
crust, if desired). Cover with a sheet of waxed
paper and refrigerate for 4 hours. Remove
waxed paper. Pipe rosettes around rim of pie
with low-fat whipped topping and garnish with
chocolate curls. Served chilled.
Chocolate-Crumb Pie Crust

Makes one 9-inch crust

    6 tbsp. unsalted butter
1 oz. bittersweet chocolate, chopped
30 all-natural chocolate sandwich cookies

Spray 9-inch, glass pie pan with non-stick
cooking spray and set aside.

In small, heavy saucepan, combine butter
and chocolate, and heat over low heat until
melted. Finely grind cookies in food processor.
Add chocolate mixture, and process again until
crumbs are just moistened. Press crumb mixture
along bottom and sides of pie dish. Freeze
for at least 30 minutes, until firm.
Hazelnut Chocolate Cherry Biscotti

Makes about 2 dozen biscotti

1 2/3 cups flour
    1 cup sugar
  1/3 cocoa
    1 tsp. baking soda
  1/2 tsp. salt
    2 eggs
    4 egg whites
    2 tsp. vanilla
1-1/4 cups chocolate chips
  1/3 cup ground hazelnuts
  1/3 cup diced dried cherries

Preheat oven to 350 [degrees]F.

In large bowl, combine flour, sugar, cocoa,
soda and salt. Stir to mix.

In small bowl, beat together eggs, 2 egg
whites and vanilla. Add wet ingredients to dry,
and mix to form stiff dough. Fold in chocolate
chips, hazelnuts and dried cherries. Turn
dough onto a floured surface, gather into a bal,
and divide in half. Roll each half into a 12-inch
tog. Transfer logs to parchment-lined baking
sheet 3 inches apart, and bake until golden,
about 35 minutes. Remove from oven and
reduce temperature to 325 [degrees]F. Let biscotti cool
in pan on a rack for 15 minutes. Using serrated
knife, cut logs crosswise into 1-inch slices.
Places slices on sheet and bake again for 15
minutes. Let cool completely before serving.
Hazelnut Fudge Cake

Serves 8

Rich and moist, this fudgy cake is lower in fat
and calories than its traditional counterpart.
Serve it warm with a scoop of low-fat ice cream
for a special dessert.

    1 cup chopped pitted prunes
  1/3 cup apple juice 2 eggs
    3 egg whites
    2 tsp. vanilla
1-1/2 cups nonfat buttermilk
1-1/4 cup unsweetened cocoa powder
    1 cup sugar
    2 cups all-purpose flour
    2 tsp. baking powder
  1/2 cup ground hazelnuts
  1/2 cup confectioner's sugar
   16 whole hazelnuts

Preheat oven to 350 [degrees]F. Coat 9-inch springform
pan with non-stick cooking spray and set aside.
In small saucepan, combine prunes and apple
juice. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer,
uncovered, for 5 to 7 minutes, or until
prunes are soft. Transfer to a food processor
and puree to a paste.

In a large mixing bowl, combine eggs, egg
whites, vanilla and buttermilk. Beat well. Beat in
pureed prunes.

In medium bowl, combine cocoa, sugar,
flour and baking powder, and mix well. Add
cocoa mixture to flour mixture, and stir just until
combined; do not overmix. Fold in hazelnuts.

Transfer batter to prepared pan. Bake at
350 [degrees]F for 45 minutes, or until a knife inserted
in center comes out with moist crumbs
attached. Sprinkle confectioner's sugar on top
of cake. Arrange whole hazelnuts on top of
cake, pressing in gently. Let cool before cutting.

RELATED ARTICLE: The wheat from the chaff.

Specific characteristics mark the difference between fine chocolates and an ordinary candy bar, according to Corinne Moore, president of Chocoholic.com in Merrimack, N.H. Some of the most important:

TASTE. Is it bitter, sweet or somewhere in-between? Darker chocolates have a higher cocoa content and are usually more bitter, but a quality chocolatier can tone down the bitterness so the flavor is smooth and even.

TEXTURE. A good chocolate should be smooth and velvety, almost melting in your mouth. A grainy or gritty texture isn't considered a plus in the chocolate world.

COCOA CONTENT. Most range from 30 to 75 percent cocoa. Gourmet chocolate bars usually hover in the area of 60 percent. Inexpensive chocolates generally have a lower cocoa content. ORIGIN. Though most chocolatiers use a blend of different beans, some prefer to stick to a favorite brand. Each should be able to tell you where their beans originate. A South African cocoa bean, for example, will have a different flavor than a Mexican cocoa bean. (One chocolatier, International Chocolate, sells "single-bean" chocolate bars--each bar is made from a specific region and, like fine wine, each has its own unique flavor.)

PRESENTATION. This includes not only the packaging but also the design of the chocolate. Some chocolatiers only sell bars, but many have distinctive shapes--Joseph Schmidt, for example, is known for his beautiful egg-shaped truffles.

OTHER INGREDIENTS. Most gourmet chocolatiers use only natural ingredients, and very few, if any, use preservatives. This will affect not only the taste but also the shelf life of a chocolate.

Want to sample some of the world's finest chocolates? Gather a group of friends for a chocolate tasting party. Purchase four or five high-quality chocolate bars, arrange each on a plate with the name of the chocolate on a small card, and offer champagne or sparkling water as a palate cleanser. Here is a sampling of some especially fine selections:

Moonstruck Chocolatier: Portland, Ore.

Valhrona: France

Cafe-Tasse: Belgium

Scharffen Berger: San Francisco, Calif.

Michel Cluizel: France

Cote d'Or: Belgium

Nirvana: Belgium

Schokinag: Germany

Max Brenner: Israel

Richard H. Donnelley Fine Chocolates: Santa Cruz, Calif.

Most of these are available at gourmet shops and some natural products stores. For more great chocolate selections, check out www.chocoholic.com or www.chocosphere.com. For more chocolate info, visit www.chocolateinfo.com OR www.exploratorium.edu/chocolate.

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