10 THINGS TO MAKE WITH ZUCCHINI/ GAD-ZUKES! in everything from zoups

Cathy Thomas

Zucchini plants are wondrous to behold. They look like innocent bouquets of dark-green leaves and sunflower-yellow blossoms. But beneath those elephant-ear leaves, subtly curved cylinders of summer squash play hide-and-seek.

Hunt them down when they're luscious 2- or 3-inch babies, and delicate blossoms sprout from rounded ends. Sever them when they're 5 to 7 inches long and so tender a gentle fingernail stroke can easily pierce their flesh.

But turn your back for a few days, and those delectable mid-size models turn into monsters - hardskinned blimps full of pulpy flesh and overgrown seeds.

Quick-cooked "zucchini-type" summer squash, picked at the right size, have crunchy, tempting textures. They taste buttery sweet with a faint cucumber flavor.

"Zucchini are so subtly flavored, you can add bold seasonings to them," said Andrea Chesman, Vermont-based co-author of "The Classic Zucchini Cookbook" (Storey, $14.95), a revised and updated version of "The Zucchini Cookbook" first published in 1977 (by Nancy C. Ralston and Marynor Jordan).

"So versatile, they're great grilled, broiled, roasted and sauted. Deep-fried or steamed. Often, especially when sauting, I remove some of the water from the zucchini by salting it first; it concentrates flavors and improves texture."

What about gargantuan zucchini, those beauties that tip the scale at over a pound?

"Either they should go in the compost heap or be used for dessert," Chesman said. Her cookbook includes a recipe for Zapple Pie With Streusel Topping, a mock apple pie that uses six cups of peeled and cored zucchini.

"It's fun to tell kids that they're eating their vegetables for dessert," she said.

Why not? We never question the usability of sugar-sweet pumpkin or yams.

Too bad we don't think of versatile zucchini as more glamorous vegetables. We seem to take them for granted. Maybe they're seen as a culinary workhorse because the bountiful beauties are so prolific. Each plant can yield 15 zucchini.

Plant one and you've got enough for the family. Plant more and you'll be giftwrapping them for neighbors.

Here are 10 quick ways to give zip to zucchini:

(1) Easy fried blossoms: Some folks like to stuff zucchini blossoms before frying, either with soft cheese or finely chopped vegetable mixtures. But they're delicious unstuffed, too. Use both male flowers (the ones with long straight stems) or female flowers (those attached to small 2- to 3-inch zucchini).

If using male flowers, remove stamens and discard. Both types are good, but there's more to eat when small zukes are attached. Combine 2/3 cup all-purpose flour and 3/4 cup beer; stir until thoroughly mixed. Wash flowers with cold water and pat dry. Heat 1 inch vegetable or peanut oil in deep skillet at 375 degrees. Dip flowers (or flowers with small zucchini attached) in batter and carefully place in hot oil. Fry 3 to 5 minutes or until nicely browned, turning once. Drain on paper towels and season generously with coarse salt (such as kosher salt) or Shichimi Togarashi (Japanese seasoning mixture that includes red pepper and sesame seeds sold in Asian markets and some supermarkets).

If you like, make a dipping sauce with half soy sauce and half rice vinegar. Zucchini blossoms are available at some supermarkets and farmers markets. If you can't find them, use this technique with 1.2-inch-thick slices of medium zucchini or zucchini cut in lengthwise quarters.

(2) Z pasta: Fettuccine and zucchini make great flavor partners. For pasta, heat a large pot of lightly salted water on high heat.

Meanwhile, heat 3 tablespoons of butter and 3 tablespoons of olive oil in a large, deep skillet on medium-high heat. Add 4 medium zucchini (washed, trimmed, quartered lengthwise and sliced) and 4 cloves of minced garlic. Cook 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in 10 halved cherry tomatoes or grape tomatoes, 1/4 cup of chopped fresh basil and 1 cup of vegetable or chicken broth. Turn off heat and season with salt and pepper to taste.

Cook 1 1/4 pounds of fettuccine in boiling water until al dente. Drain and toss with zucchini mixture. Add 1 cup of grated Parmigiano- Reggiano cheese; gently toss. Serve additional cheese at table.

Yield: 4 to 6 servings.

Source: "The Classic Zucchini Cookbook."

(3) Stuffed zucchini: Stuffed zucchini make a great summertime entree; they can be prepared in the cool of the morning, refrigerated, then baked just before serving. You can use either sweet or hot Italian sausage or ground turkey seasoned with dried Italian herbs (see recipe).

(4) Zucchini slaw: Cut zucchini into small matchsticks (a food processor's julienne disk can make short work of this) and add to your favorite coleslaw recipe.

(5) 'Cue squash: Even vegetable haters can't resist the smoky- sweet flavor of grilled zucchini. Cut 4 to 5 medium zucchini (use both green and yellow varieties if available) into 1/4-inch-thick lengthwise slices. Place in a single layer on a platter. Drizzle with about 2 tablespoons of olive oil, 2 teaspoons of balsamic vinegar, 1 to 2 teaspoons of minced mint or 3/4 teaspoon of dried oregano, and salt and pepper to taste.

Brush grill with olive oil. Place zucchini on grill diagonally in single layer. Grill about 3 minutes on each side. After turning, brush zucchini with oil and vinegar mixture left behind on platter. Taste and adjust seasoning as needed.

To turn into finger food, spread cheese mixture atop each room- temperature strip of grilled zucchini and roll up jellyroll fashion: Stir room-temperature goat cheese or ricotta cheese, minced fresh thyme and a little olive oil together and spread a thin layer on top of each strip; roll.

(6) Ratatouille: This dish is traditional summer fare in southern France. It uses the season's best . eggplant, bell peppers, sun- ripened tomatoes, and of course, zucchini. The flavors meld perfectly, accented with olive oil, onions and fresh herbs. It can be served hot, cold or room temperature (see recipe).

(7) Oh my! omelet: Cut 1 medium zucchini into lengthwise quarters; slice crosswise. Toss with about 1/2 to 1 teaspoon of salt, place in colander and set aside 30 minutes. Place in a clean dish towel and wring out moisture. Heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a medium skillet over mediumhigh heat. Add zucchini and 1 clove minced garlic; cook until tender-crisp, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in 1 tablespoon of chopped basil. Add 3/4 cup of grated cheddar cheese. Use to fill a 4-egg omelet.

Source: Adapted from "The Classic Zucchini Cookbook."

(8) Veggie stir-fry: Cut 6 trimmed zucchini into 1/4-inch-wide slices. Cut 3 whole, trimmed green onions into 1-inch diagonal pieces. Set vegetables aside. Make sauce by combining 1/4 cup of dry sherry, 3 tablespoons of tomato sauce, 2 tablespoons of soy sauce, 1 tablespoon of Asian sesame oil, 2 teaspoons of cornstarch and 1/4 teaspoon of black pepper; stir and set aside. Mince 2 teaspoons of fresh ginger; set aside.

Heat wok with 2 tablespoons of vegetable or peanut oil on high heat. When almost smoking, add ginger and stir-fry 5 seconds. Add vegetables and stir-fry 3 minutes. Stir sauce and add to wok; stir- fry until sauce thickens and vegetables are glazed. Serve over cooked rice.

Yield: 4 servings.

Source: Adapted from "Hot Wok" by Hugh Carpenter and Teri Sandison (Ten Speed Press, $17.95).

(9) Zucchini zoup: In large pot, stir 3 tablespoons of butter with 2 tablespoons of flour over medium-high heat 2 minutes. Whisk in 3 (14 1/2-ounce) cans of chicken broth and 2 teaspoons of minced garlic; bring to simmer and lower heat. Simmer 10 minutes. Add 1/2 cup of orzo or rosamarina (tiny rice-shaped pasta); simmer 5 minutes. Grate 3 medium trimmed zucchini (a food processor's grating disk works well); add to soup. Simmer 3 minutes and stir in 1/3 cup of minced fresh basil and 3 tablespoons of grated Parmesan cheese. Taste; add salt and pepper as needed.

(10) Let them eat cake! Forget carrot cake; try this zucchini confection (see recipe).

- Food writer Cathy Thomas can be reached by e-mail at cthomas@freedom.com or by calling (800) 722-7770.

Types of zucchini

Zucchini, a variety of summer squash, resembles a lightly ridged cucumber; its skin is medium to deep green, with paler flecks or stripes. Here's a rundown on other "zucchini type" summer squash:

Golden zucchini: Daffodil-yellow skin and pale yellow flesh. Flavor is slightly more buttery than classic green zucchini.

Tatume: Pale green, tapering shape with pale yellow flesh. Sweet flavor and lower water content. Called "calabacita" in Mexico.

Spherical zucchini or globe squash: Eight Ball and Gourmet Globe zucchini fall into this category. They have dark-green skin and green- tinged flesh that has a sweet flavor and dense texture.

SKILLET RATATOUILLE

Yield: 6 servings.

1 pound hot or sweet Italian sausage*

About 2 tablespoons olive oil, plus 1-2 tablespoons more

5 Japanese eggplant (cut into 1/2-inch slices) or 1 large eggplant (cut into quarters lengthwise and then into 1/2-inch slices)

2 large onions, peeled, halved, thinly sliced

2 yellow bell peppers, cored, seeded, cut in strips

1 red bell pepper, cored, seeded, cut into strips

4 medium-large ripe tomatoes, about 1 pound, cut into 1-inch chunks

Pinch of ground fennel seed*

3-4 zucchini, some yellow if possible, sliced

2/3 cup coarsely chopped fresh basil

Salt and pepper to taste

For serving: Cooked rice or pasta

Garnish: Parmesan cheese

Line microwave-safe plate with 3 layers white paper towels. To reduce fat, poke holes in sausage on all sides with fork. Place sausage in single layer on towels and cover with paper towel. Microwave on high 4 minutes. When cool, remove and cut into 1 1/2- inch slices.

Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in Dutch oven or large, deep skillet. Add sausage and cook on medium-high heat, stirring or shaking pan frequently, browning on all sides. Remove sausage with slotted spoon. Set aside.

Add eggplant, onion and bell pepper to pan. Add 1-2 tablespoons olive oil if dry. Cook on medium heat about 8 minutes, stirring frequently, until vegetables start to soften.

Add sausage, tomatoes, fennel seed and zucchini to pan. Cover and simmer on low until vegetables are tender, about 15 minutes. Add basil and season to taste with salt and pepper. If there is a lot of juice, strain solids (either by using slotted spoon or pouring mixture through a colander, reserving juices).

Cook juices on high heat until reduced by two-thirds. Return vegetables to reduced juices. (Ratatouille can be prepared a day in advance, refrigerated and reheated.)

Place rice or pasta in shallow bowls. Ladle ratatouille on top. Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese. Serve with crusty, warm bread.

COOK'S NOTES: If omitting sausage, start with step sauting eggplant.

To grind fennel seeds, place in zipper-style plastic bag and pound with mallet or heavy pot (or process in mini food processor -- a regular food processor won't work).

If using ratatouille as a filling or topping, cut the vegetables smaller and reduce the cooking time. If using it cold, omit sausage.

Nutrition information per serving, not including pasta, rice or parmesan cheese: Calories 386 (58 percent from fat); fat 24.8 g (sat 7.6 g, mono 12.5 g, poly 3.2 g); protein 20 g; carbohydrates 24 g; fiber 6.87 g; cholesterol 59 mg; sodium 757 mg; calcium 77 mg.

STUFFED ZUCCHINI

Yield: 8 appetizer servings.

4 medium zucchini, rinsed, halved lengthwise

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 small onion, diced

2 large cloves garlic, minced

1/4 cup finely chopped mushrooms

1/4 cup finely chopped celery

1 pound hot or sweet bulk Italian sausage (or a combination)*

2 tablespoons dry white wine

3 tablespoons chopped fresh basil

3/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese

1 egg, lightly beaten

3/4 cup fresh bread crumbs

Salt and pepper to taste

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

Scoop out inside of zucchini halves with small spoon to make room for filling, leaving sides and bottom portion about 1/4- to 1/8-inch- thick; reserve half of cored portion and chop.

Warm oil on medium-high heat in large, deep skillet. Add onion, garlic, mushrooms and celery; cook until celery starts to soften, 7- 9 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add sausage and break into small pieces with spatula or wooden spoon. Cook until sausage is done, about 4-6 minutes. Add white wine and reserved chopped zucchini spooned from inside; increase to high heat and bring to boil. Boil until wine evaporates.

Remove from heat. Stir in basil and cheese. Stir in egg and bread crumbs. Taste and adjust seasoning as needed.

Season interior of zucchini with salt and pepper. When sausage mixture is cool enough to handle, place in zucchini, mounding so filling is above cut edge. Place filling-side up in 9-by-13-inch baking pan. Place 1/8- to 1/4-inch water in bottom of pan (you may need to remove one of the zucchini to add water, then replace it).

Bake 30-40 minutes or until zucchini is tender-crisp and filling is nicely browned. Carefully remove zucchini with wide spatula and serve.

COOK'S NOTES: If you prefer, use ground turkey rather than sausage. Season it to taste with salt and dried Italian herb seasoning.

Nutrition information per serving: Calories 548 (63 percent from fat); fat 38.6 g (sat 13.9 g, mono 18 g, poly 4.5 g); protein 34 g; carbohydrates 16 g; fiber 3.27 g; cholesterol 153 mg; sodium 1,439 mg; calcium 275 mg.

ZUCCHINI CAKE

Yield: 14 servings.

FOR CAKE:

Butter or margarine for greasing pan

1 (18 1/2-ounce) package yellow cake mix (without pudding)

3 eggs

1/2 cup (1 stick) butter or margarine, softened

1/2 cup water

1 1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

2 cups grated zucchini

2/3 cup chopped walnuts

FOR FROSTING:

3 cups powdered sugar

6 ounces cream cheese, room temperature

5 tablespoons butter or margarine, room temperature

1 teaspoon lemon extract

Optional garnish: Zucchini flowers

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Grease 13-by-9-by-2-inch baking pan with butter or margarine.*

Combine cake mix, eggs, butter, water, cinnamon and vanilla extract in large bowl of electric mixer; beat on low speed 4 minutes. Stir in zucchini and walnuts. Pour into prepared pan. Bake in preheated 375-degree oven 35-40 minutes or until toothpick inserted in center comes out clean. Cool.

Meanwhile, prepare frosting: Combine powdered sugar, cream cheese, 5 tablespoons butter or margarine and lemon extract in electric mixer or food processor fitted with metal blade. Beat (or process) until smooth.

Frost cake. Cake may be prepared 2 days in advance and stored airtight in refrigerator.

COOK'S NOTES: It's faster and easier to make this cake in a 13-by- 9-by-2-inch baking pan, but for more glamorous results, use an angel food cake tube pan with a removable bottom (not a Bundt pan). The results are prettier, but increase baking time to 55 minutes. After baking, run thin knife around edge and pull out removable bottom by grasping center tube. Invert onto cake plate.

Nutrition information per serving: Calories 315 (59 percent from fat); fat 20.8 g (sat 10.2 g, mono 6.5 g, poly 3.1 g); protein 4 g; carbohydrates 31 g; fiber .66 g; cholesterol 93 mg; sodium 188 mg; calcium 24 mg.

Copyright 2002
Provided by ProQuest Information and Learning Company. All rights Reserved.