SPLASHING OUT

You've been to Chelsea, you've seen the gardens there and perhaps been inspired by the Standard's design to create a water feature at home. But where do you start? PETER ROBINSON offers this practical guide

The current rise in popularity of water gardening is not difficult to understand. This most beguil -ing element can be introduced to every size and style of garden. In areas and at times of year when water is a precious resource, water gardening is, per -haps surprisingly, one of the most practical and least wasteful ways of transforming a garden into a cooling retreat with lush plant growth.

Here are two ways to introduce water to your gar den which you could probably do in a weekend and which you will be able to enjoy for years to come. Splashing out Simple pond Flexible liner is the most versatile material to use in the construction of a pond. When choosing the line, however, do bear in mind that they vary considerably in quality and durability. Inexpensive polythene liners only have a life expectancy of three to five years if exposed to sunlight, while the more expensive PVC and butyl liners will last up to 50 years. When installing liner, make sure that no part of the material is left exposed above the waterline, as this will not only spoil the look of the finished feature, it will also leave an area of liner exposed to sunlight. This will cause cheaper brands to harden and crack, resulting in a drop in the level of the water in the pond. To prevent the liner from being punctured by sharp objects such as stones or rocks, always use good-quality underlay. Before buying flexible liner and underlay, calculate how much will be needed to line the pond, including enough for a generous overlap. If possible, unroll the liner and lay it flat in the sun for at least half an hour. the heat will increase the liner's flexibility and help to ease out any stiff creases. Roll it up again to make lay -ing easier. When fitting line into an irregularly shaped pond, do not strain it tightly over the contours of the excavation as this will reduce its natural elasticity and make it more likely to be punctured by stones or rocks. How to make the pond 1 Mark the outline of the pond. Position a datum peg at the edge of the outline to indicate the proposed water level. Position the remaining pegs regularly around the pond. Use a spirit level and a straight edge to check that all the pegs are level. 2 Remove turfs 5cm (2in) deep and 30cm (12in) wide from the edge of the pond, beyond the pegs. Retain the turfs if a grass edging is planned. Excavate the entire area to a depth of 22cm (9in). After raking the surface, use sand to outline the proposed deep zone, leaving marginal shelf areas that are at least 30cm (12in) wide to accommodate plants. 3 Excavate the marked area to a depth of 37cm (15in). Rake the floor of the hole and remove any large or sharp stones. As an extra precau -tion against a sharp object piercing the underlay and liner, spread a 2.5cm (1in) layer of soft sand or sifted soil at the bottom of the excavation, where the water pressure will be strongest. Remove the pegs. 4 Drape the underlay over the hole, then press firmly into the contours. Unroll the liner over the hole. Use bricks to hold the edges temporarily in place and slowly fill the pond with water. The increasing weight of the water will settle the liner into the more difficult contours. Pleat any large creases as necessary. Adjust the bricks as the liner tautens. What you will need Tools Sand or string to mark out pond 10 pegs, one datum peg Lump hammer Spirit level Straightedge Shovel, spade Rake Materials Soft sand or sifted soil: 0.5 cubic metres (half a cubic yard) Underlay: five metres by four metres (15ft x 12ft) Bricks to hold liner temporarily in place. The rocks and stones edging this pond decrease in size as they get closer to the water. This creates a natural effect, disguising the edge of the liner and inviting wildlife to approach Seen from the house and terrace, the pool has its own surround of planting, which has largely been kept low so that views of the lawn and borders beyond are not blocked. Paving stones continue the theme of the terrace and stonework. The planting, using plenty of bold greenery, capitalises on the backdrop of trees in neighbouring gardens The plants in this barrel, right, are in planting baskets to prevent their roots from mingling. Marginal plants are placed on bricks or on empty upturned baskets to bring them up to the correct planting depth. Far right, two barrels are linked by a spouting head. Below: always clean tubs and barrels thoroughly. New ones will be watertight but older ones may require lining Charm of an informal pond Curving lines, distinct planting areas and the matching, weathered shades of decking, steps, bridge and bench are crucial for making this garden seem much bigger than it is. The steps, and a gravel path leading to the utility area, give more practical access between house and garden. The simple wooden bridge comprises two parallel railway sleepers and here divides the water as well as providing a way across. A submerged barrier of fine mesh underneath retains young fish, tadpoles and any other small creatures in the smaller pool area on the left, protecting them from predators. * From RHS Water Gardening by Peter Robinson, published by Dorling Kindersley, price GBP 25. Peter Robinson is the leading figure in the current water gardening revival. Earlier in his career, he was principal of Capel Manor Horticultural College at Enfield in Middlesex, whose current students have helped build our own Chelsea water garden. Now Peter is an internationally acclaimed expert on water gardening, designing and installing water gardens for more than 35 years. He has also designed Gold Medal winning water gardens at Chelsea and he was awarded a prestigious Garden Writers Guild award for the book from which this extract is taken. Water gardens in containers Although limited in size, containers make water gardening possible in very small gardens and on patios, verandahs and terraces. Even the most modest container, once planted, will quickly become a focal point, especially if it houses a small fountain. The addition of a couple of small fish transforms forms it into a fascinating feature for children. The only drawback container water gardens have is their susceptibility to rapid temperature changes and to the risk of freezing solid in prolonged periods of low temperature. This makes them unsuitable for fish or for tender plants through the winter unless you are able to bring the container under cover in cold weather. An alternative is to sink the container into the ground so that only 10-15cm (4-6in) remains visible above ground. this insulates the contents to a degree. Almost any container, from barrels and decorative urns to sinks and home-made hypertufa troughs can be used as long as they are watertight. Earthenware pots should be glazed and wooden barrels and tubs should be sealed; older, leaky barrels may also need a waterproof lining. A plastic dustbin makes an ideal, inexpensive miniature water garden that can be sunk into the ground or surround by other containers to disguise its unattractive exterior. A group of container water gardens makes a striking arrangement, particularly if one of the larger containers is used to house a small pump and fountain. The humidifying effect of the circulating water will benefit surrounding plants, and keep the water fresh and sparkling; in containers without a fountain, oxygenating plants must always be included to keep the water clear. Apart from this

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