Seattle's best secret: indulge in retail therapy in Ballard, the city's most dynamic neighborhood

Don't feel bad if you haven't heard of Ballard--even many Seattleites haven't gotten hip yet to the city's best shopping. This once working-class neighborhood with deep Nordic roots, best known by some as the place to spy salmon swimming through the Ballard Locks, now has the feel of a budding SoHo, with small, independently owned shops lining historic redbrick streets.

We've canvassed the neighborhood for you, mapping out a trail of trendy boutiques, most of which are concentrated on Ballard Avenue Northwest and Market Street. Both streets are home to designer- and artist-based businesses where you can buy everything from buttery-leather slides to quirky handmade greeting cards and tastefully alluring lingerie. Break for lunch, a glass of wine, or a gorgeous little cupcake. Because let's face it: Giving may be its own reward, but holiday shopping's a lot more fun when there's something in it for you.

Shoe fetish

For the latest in Italian footwear without a trip to Florence, check out designs at Re-Soul. Look for co-proprietor Maggie Burns's own Re-Soul label ($169-$189). 5319 Ballard; www.resoul.com or 206/789-7312.

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Garden delight

Garden designer Brandon Scott Peterson says he opened the Palm Room, a garden-design studio and plant gallery, in Ballard because he saw the brick-fronted neighborhood as "a clean slate waiting to happen." Pick up exotic plant presents or adopt something sculptural for yourself: succulents in bonsai dishes ($20-$40) or your very own potted Haworthia or red-tipped jade. Open Thu-Sun and by appointment. 5336 Ballard; 206/782-7256.

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Souvenir finds

For quirky, handcrafted cards, step into Curtis Steiner's Souvenir, both Steiner's working studio and a jewel box of a store, with blond wood floors and a striking card display that takes up an entire wall (cards as art: $6.50). Don't miss Steiner's jewelry designs, made with antique European beads, ancient beads from Nepal, and 200-year-old Russian blue glass trading beads (from $140). Closed Mon. 5325 Ballard; www.curtissteiner.com or 206/297-7116.

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Feminine chic

Julie Merriman's Olivine, inspired by a trip to Paris, stocks must-have feminine luxuries in a space as airy as a French flat. Go for flirty dresses (from $75) or Cosabella lace camisoles ($40-$100). 5344 Ballard; www.olivine.net or 206/706-4188.

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Global notions

Michele Wipplinger, a leader in the world of natural dyes, recently added a shopping annex to her studio, Earthues. Find Japanese textile brushes (left; $52), buttons made of tagua nut ("vegetable ivory"; $2-$4), and Nepali needle cases ($10-$20) hand-carved to resemble fish. Closed Sat. 5129 Ballard; www.earthues.com or 206/789-1065.

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Modern finds

Snatch up American modern dinnerware sets or a fab Russel Wright teapot ($12) at Lola Lola. Choose from well-edited displays of kitschy glassware (sets from $25), as well as retro-inspired new products. Don't miss the wool and cotton rugs in bright, '60s-inspired geometric designs ($70-$190). Closed Mon. 5208 Ballard; www.lolashop.com or 206/783-1890.

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Easy entertaining

After a hard day's shopping, drop by Kathy Casey Food Studios, where the Seattle food diva is headquartered in a spacious Ballard storefront. Although Casey's studios are typically booked for classes and special events, come in and pick up her signature goat-cheese and chive spread ($7) for simple appetizers at home. If she's in the kitchen, she'll autograph a copy of her book, Dishing with Kathy Casey (Sasquatch Books, 2002; $23). Closed Sat-Sun. 5130 Ballard; www.kathycasey.com or 206/784-7840.

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Duque divas

Salon co-owner and Ballard Avenue resident Tami Duque personally dreamed up Duque's "no girl left behind" policy. The result? One-stop shopping for girlie girls: Have a Brazilian bikini wax, get highlights or a cut, then browse racks of affordable sequined camisoles ($60) and chiffon scarves ($15). Also: Hanky Panky thongs ($18) and a great selection of essential Grass Roots and Last Tango T-shirts ($30-$60). Closed Mon. 5348 Ballard; www.duquesalon.com or 206/706-7177.

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Look at Lucca

European-inspired Lucca Great Finds is a tiny store stocked with well-chosen treasures: beautifully boxed, handcrafted MarieBelle truffles ($9-$25), G. Lalo writing paper in dreamy colors ($8-$12), and, for die-hard Francophiles, Eiffel Tower desk statues ($42). Open daily. 5332 Ballard; www.luccastatuary.com/retailgreatfinds.asp or 206/782-7337.

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Recharge

Cugini Cafe. Ballard Avenue's local espresso shop. 5306 Ballard; 206/784-2576.

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Cupcake Royale. Get a buttercream-frosted cupcake ($2). 2052 N.W. Market St.; 206/782-9557.

Habitude at the Locks. Book a manicure, pedicure, or express facial at this earthy salon and spa. 2801 N.W. Market; 206/782-2898.

Portalis Wine Shop & Wine Bar. Fresh market cheeses and "small bites" items accompany wines by the glass. Closed Mon. 5310 Ballard; 206/783-2007.

Volterra. High-style weekend brunch, or dinner daily. 5411 Ballard; 206/789-5100.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN CLARK

INFO: From State 99, exit at N. 46th St. and head west; road becomes Market St. Turn left on 20th Ave. N.W., then left at Ballard Ave. N.W.

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COPYRIGHT 2005 Sunset Publishing Corp.
COPYRIGHT 2005 Gale Group