The Swede life is a bit of all white Swede even when

If you're dreaming of a white winter break...book yourself a weekend in Stockholm.

The idea of going somewhere where it's nearly always colder than Britain may make you shiver, but imagine a winter where the snow stays powder-dry instead of turning into grey slush, the skies are baby blue even at -12C and the locals keep warm by pouring fiery alcoholic drinks down their throats.

You can go ice-skating on the lake in a scene straight out of Bambi - take a cruise through the Fjaderholmarna archipelago and shop until your lips turn blue at the outdoor market where long-johns are absolutely esssential.

January is the darkest month of the year with the sun setting just after lunch. Yet at the first signs of early dusk the city comes alive with candles blazing in every window.

To help them through the dark time, the Swedes have invented their very own festival of light called Lucia, after the Sicilian saint.

Candlelit children's processions organised by schools and churches take place across the country, led by "Lucia" herself, who wears a crown of candles in her hair. It is every little girl's dream to be Lucia. with the lucky ones getting to show off for days afterwards by picking bits of candlewax out of their hair.

We met Swedish women who were psychologically scarred for life by never being picked. Apparently it helps to be tall with long blonde hair.

Another highlight is the Vasa Museum. In 1628, the Vasa, pride of the Swedish fleet, sank on its maiden voyage and the Swedes have spent a decade painstakingly restoring the ship so that tourists can come and laugh at it.

You don't have to be Francis Drake to see why it never made it out of Stockholm harbour - it makes the Titanic look well-designed.

Otherwise, eating and drinking your way through the afternoon dark is the name of the game.

There is a special winter smorgasbord, known as a "Julbord", and an entire drinks cabinet of festive plonk - including "Glogg", a strong, hot, mulled wine served with almonds and raisins.

Swedish food is surprisingly good after the bad press the Muppet Show's hatchet-wielding chef has given the nation's kitchens.

And every restaurant is reassuringly familiar with every fixture and fitting looking as if they had come straight out of an IKEA catalogue.

FACT FILE

Good value for tourists is the Stockholm Card which offers free public transport and admission to over 70 attractions. Contact the Swedish Travel and Tourism Council on 0171 724 5868. SAS Scandinavian Airlines (0171 734 4020) offer value-for-money holidays to Stockholm with 3-day breaks from pounds 254.

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