Joining in the bustle of France's 'marches'

Living part of the time in the town of Chatou, just 30 minutes from downtown Paris, one of my immense pleasures as an American living in France is blending in with the local shoppers in their quest for their daily cooking requirements.

Part of the culture

Unless one lives in the host country, it is easy to bypass much of the native charm and endemic culture of that country. The weekly market days, or marches, have been part of life in France for centuries. And they still are held in just about every town and village as well as in the arrondissements (departments) in Paris.

On special days of the week a marche is set up in the town square or areas maintained for the French, who still like to shop for their culinary needs on a daily basis.

The marche in the town of Chatou is held every Wednesday and Saturday. A part of the town square is reserved for booths or stands which are put up the night before for those merchants who truck in their wares and products for sale from all over France.

Shoppers can select from fresh fish and oysters in season from Brittany, honey of all types from Normandy, succulent cured hams from Alsace, cheeses from every corner of France and wines from Bordeaux, Cotes du Rhone, Burgundy, Languedoc and Saumur, not to mention champagne from the famous region south of Reims. Heaps of fresh fruits and vegetables are interspersed throughout the huge square.

These specialty stands sell their products generally from the family farm, such as poultry raised free of pens, pork products from Normandy or various cuts of beef from the Midi in the south of France.

The air of excitement is not unlike an opening of the circus, or sale day in any large department store, and the French are not reserved in their manners as one usually finds them in everyday life.

Something for every taste

In addition to the food, there are rugs from Turkey or Iran, antique furniture harking back to the reign of the French kings, and slightly imperfect pottery and china from the famous are of Limoges (sold at only a fraction of its original cost).

Shoes, sweaters and children's jackets can be found at bargain prices as well.

With the hustle and bustle of the shopping going on all around you, the French merchant meanwhile is loudly shouting and exhorting the superb qualities of his unique delicacies.

The French are known as gourmets, and food quality must be maintained if a merchant in the marche is to stay in business very long. Tiny slivers of cured hams, full-bodied goat cheeses, creamy cunard pate from Picardie and seasoned olives for every taste are offered to be sampled.

As much as I try to speak French like a true native, the local French merchant usually can spot my American accent. And since I am an outsider he always insists on throwing in an extra sprig of bright-green parsley, an extra dash of garlicky olives or just a little extra measure of the homemade pate made from goose livers, wild mushrooms and maybe a hint of truffle.

After tucking a choice trunche of cunard pate or several new cheeses to be tried into my shopping bag, I eagerly scurry home to prepare a simple repast. I find this is best accompanied by a noble glass of Chateauneuf-du-Pape wine or perhaps a superb bottle of Pierre Gruber's mellow Bourgogne Grande Reverse, if it's a special occasion.

Before leaving our marche, though, I linger for a few moments in front of the colorful flower stand to ponder whether to buy a small bouquet to tiny roses or a varicolored chrysanthemum to decorate our table for the coming weekend.

After visiting the glorious sights of Paris, if you have the time in France I'd suggest searching out a village or town where a typical marche is being held. There is no charge for admission and you will come away appreciating having been exposed to one of the ancient charms and cultures of France.

From Paris to Chatou

Chatou is located 30 minutes from Paris on the RER line from Charles de Gaulle-Etoille connection (near the Arc de Triomphe west en route to St-Germain-en-Laye). The RER stop is marked Chatou-Croissy.

COPYRIGHT 1992 Martin Publications, Inc.
COPYRIGHT 2004 Gale Group