Where to stay in Bali - Asia

Much has been written about "mystical," "magical" Bali. If you avoid the most crowded beach areas (Kuta Beach, in particular), you still can find the Bali of the government tourist brochure: "a beautiful land of emerald rice fields, languid blue lakes, vibrant red sunsets, cascading streams, endless golden beaches protected by spectacular coral reefs, stark inactive volcanoes and cool mountain peaks."

Not a word of exaggeration - it's all still there if you get a bit off the beaten path.

An indispensable sampler of the many wonders of this exotic Indonesian island is the "Insight guide to Bali" published by APA Publications.

Wide range of accommodations

I've inspected 50 to 60 hotels in Bali, including all of the best ones. This article will concentrate on a few favorites below the priciest, superdeluxe level. These are places I consider "good value."

First, a word of warning - Bali's climate is warm and humid year round. Virtually all feel that air-conditioning is essential in a beach-area hotel, so invest a few extra dollars to ensure your comfort.

You indeed could get what are called "backpacker accommodations" for $10-$25 a night. If you enjoy trying to sleep in a muggy, airless room under your own recently purchased mosquito net - marinating in your own juices and keeping one eye open to guard your valuables - you'll love these places. In fact, you'll "save" so much money you'll completely ruin your vacation!

Enough sermonizing. Approximate price guidelines for standard rooms in nonpeak seasons are as follows: Moderate (less than $100 per room), Moderately Expensive (less than $130) and Expensive (less than $175).

NUSA DUA BEACH AREA

Regarded as the prestige area, it is beautiful, but too many hotels have been built.

The ultradeluxe and most expensive hotels (in my order of preference) are Grand Hyatt Bali, Nusa Dua Hotel and Bali Hilton. Sheraton Lagoon Nusa Dua was not fully completed when I visited but no doubt belongs in this group.

* Putri Bali - elegant, quietly refined, understated. . . I really like this hotel.

Standard rooms are bright, cheerful and airy, with quality furnishings, wood parquet floors and all of the expected amenities.

The one-bedroom suites, most with ocean view, are really beautiful. They have vaulted ceilings, expensive furnishings and even a guest bathroom.

You'll find top-quality restaurants here.

It's almost as nice as the much more expensive hotels and certainly my favorite for the money in Nusa Dua. Moderately Expensive

* Melia Bali Sol - a surprisingly nice property, with 398 double rooms and 110 very interesting duplex suites.

The lobby's high, vaulted ceiling is covered with elaborate, vibrantly colorful paintings. Some Balinese Michelangelo spent a great deal of time on a scaffold.

Standard rooms are of good size, are tastefully decorated and have a sitting area and terrace. the suites are split-level and really nice.

Good restaurants and a beach area. Moderately Expensive

SANUR BEACH AREA

Bali's first international resort area, it's a bit less ostentatious than Nusa Dua. There still are small farms in the area and fishermen with lanterns along the beach at night.

* Bali Hyatt - a very pleasant place to stay. You'll find absolutely outstanding landscaping of this 36-acre complex. There are small pools, waterfalls, flowers and exotic plants all through the lush grounds.

Deluxe rooms are of average size, face the ocean and pool and have nice sitting terraces. The decor is Balinese. Bathrooms are colorfully tiled.

There are a number of good restaurants.

The hotel is not as spectacular as the Grand Hyatt but then not as pricey, either. Expensive

* Hotel Sanur Beach - an older, well-kept hotel that has a great many loyal followers.

The attractive, well-furnished rooms have extra-large windows overlooking the tropical grounds.

There are several good restaurants.

I like the "feel" of this one and consider it very good value. Moderately Expensive

KUTA BEACH AREA

The center of Kuta is very crowded and unpleasant to many. There are not only traffic jams but people jams.

This is the favorite beach for surfers. There are lots of cheap, tacky guest houses ("losmen") with barely acceptable rooms (see my earlier warning). The one place I can enthusiastically recommend is below.

* Kartika Plaza Beach Hotel - This is in an area many call South Kuta. It's a bit closer to the airport and altogether more civilized than the center of Kuta.

This hotel is a fine place to stay. It has a good restaurant, a fabulous pool and an uncrowded beach.

There are 300 rooms in the main building plus 82 thoroughly upgraded bungalows. Guest rooms are bright, cheerful and a bit larger than most.

A comfortable place to stay, particularly at Moderate prices.

LEGIAN BEACH AND

BEYOND

Kuta's northern neighbor is much more serene. The beach is impressively wide and not crawling with vendors.

There are a number of moderately priced hotels along this stripplus one very special, more expensive place. My two favorites are...

* Intan Beach Village - I liked this one very much. It's particularly good for water sports.

The 194 rooms in the main building are of average Size but nicely done with quality furnishings, marble baths and more. The lanais have garden or ocean views.

The attractive interior courtyards of the main building have small pools.

The hotel also has 52 bungalow rooms which are even nicer. Their bathrooms have rock gardens and skylights, for example.

This place boasts an excellent pool area and a wide, secluded beach. It offers a free shuttle bus to town.

This hotel is a fine value at Moderate.

* Bali Oberoi - This is a special place, one of the best in Bali. All alone on its tranquil beach, this bungalow-style, lowrise development has 30 acres of lush and exotic gardens. The grounds have a maze of paths punctuated with tropical blossoms and lotus ponds. There's a fine pool area at ocean's edge.

The Lanai Cottages are large and very beautifully decorated. They have sunken marble bath areas with small gardens and skylights. Their lanais open to flower-filled gardens.

Beat of all are the 10 thatch-roof Villas, which are even more extravagant. Each has its own center courtyard with a fish pond, raised open-air dining pavilions and private terraces that overlook the beach and gardens.

With fine restaurants, the Oberoi is strongly recommended and has rates that are mostly in the Expensive and Expensive+ category, depending on the style of rooms you choose.

UBUD VICINITY

(in the mountains)

The two most expensive hotels on the island are here. Amandari (sister hotel to Phuket's Amanpuri) is best, with Kupu Kupu Barong a reasonably close second. If price is no object, they surely are wonderful.

Below are two much more moderately priced choices.

* Cahaya Dewata - shares the same high-ridge view as Amandari and Kupu Kupu Barong but at a fraction of the price. This one ranks as only moderate in price.

The hotel has 22 rooms on four floors and more planned. They are attractive without being luxurious. They are fan-cooled, which is sufficient in the mountains. A good value.

* Hotel Tjampuhan - one of the earliest hotels in Ubud and, frankly, beginning to show its age a bit.

The superior rooms are large and exotically furnished with handcarved furniture. There are overhead fans. The bathrooms have skylights and rock walls.

The hotel is on a steep slope overlooking a deep, scenic ravine. This can mean a lot of climbing up and down, depending on where your room is located.

There is a lovely, small pool area.

The "Rajah Room" had an elaborate canopy bed and a wraparound view.

The staff here is extremely accommodating. I consider this a slightly tarnished "gem." Moderate.

COPYRIGHT 1992 Martin Publications, Inc.
COPYRIGHT 2004 Gale Group