Tswalu - reclaiming the Kalahari - South Africa; Kalahari Desert

"Can you see her?" whispered Adriaan Erasmus, general manager and chief ranger at Tswalu, a 250,000. acre private game reserve at the edge of the great Kalahari Desert.

"Uh, yes," I replied. At least, I thought so, never dreaming that an animal with the bulk of a desert black rhino - Diceros bicornis bicornis, as it's known in zoology circles - could keep such a low profile in the tall grass.

Adriaan suggested that we take a closer look. Much closer. With an admonition to "walk softly and try not to step on any branches," we set out from the Land Rover toward the thornbush-browsing rhino. (On the other hand, white rhinos, less heralded Tswalu residents, are grazers, feasting on grass.)

A beautiful baby

Adriaan undoubtedly knew what he was doing, but I couldn't help feeling more than a bit exposed as the distance from the Rover lengthened. Suddenly, in plain view, there she was: mother black rhino with her fast-growing newborn close behind and barely visible above the tops of grass stalks.

The baby rhino was born - as far as anyone can determine - around Oct. 13, 1997. It is the first black rhino to be born on a private reserve in South Africa and is living proof that Tswalu, site of a massive conservation project funded by British entrepreneur Stephen Boler, is working.

Tswalu, meaning "a new beginning" in the local dialect, was begun just three years ago with the purchase of an existing farm. Since then, parcels have been continually added to the point that the property now comprises over 250,000 acres.

Within the reserve, all manmade buildings and structures were razed and over 1,000 miles of fencing removed.

Our single goal was to bring the Kalahari back to the Kalahari," said Boler, "and recreate Africa as it was a thousand years ago."

As a key part of that effort, eight rare desert black rhinos - now nine, counting the latest arrival - were imported from Namibia early in 1996. In addition, ongoing breeding projects include the king cheetah, leopard, sable antelope, roan antelope and disease-free buffalo.

"These are animals that haven't been seen in these parts for years," noted Pieter Lombaard, Tswalu's veterinarian and conservation director, "and I'm happy to report that they're thriving in their new home."

All told, Tswalu is home to more than 40 species of animal, more than any private game reserve in South Africa, making the property a fast favorite of both professional and amateur photographers as word of mouth about this special place spreads.

A walk on the wild side

Back with mother rhino and child on the Kalahari thornveld, I raised my camera and depressed the shutter release with seemingly the loudest click I've ever heard. We were upwind of the pair and rhinos can't see very well, but they sure can hear.

Instantly, two pair of ears perked up. They knew something was out there. Morn emitted a loud snort of confusion, annoyance, or both.

Adriaan whispered, "Move closer to the tree!"

What tree? To me, at that moment, it was just an overgrown twig, offering scant protection.

We observed the pair a few moments longer, then Adriaan signaled me to follow and we carefully retreated back to the Rover. Wise move. No sense upsetting the animals, or having them upset us, for that matter.

The faithful Land Rover started on the first try and we headed back to the main lodge, which consists of individual desert suites villas, actually - and a central facility, all artfully designed to blend with the colors and hues of the surrounding hills.

The exclusive resort can accommodate just 22 fortunate guests, who have the 250,000 acres all to themselves. (As an idea of the sheer vastness of Tswalu, it could accommodate the entire island of Manhattan in a corner, with plenty of room to spare!)

Fit for a king

While the bush is unspoiled and game-drive photo opportunities are limitless, there's apparently no limit to the outright spoiling of guests "back at camp" by Tswalu's management.

Each guest chalet has a 30-foot-high thatched roof and contains more than 700 square feet of space plus a private veranda that overlooks a watering hole, a frequent way station for warthogs and various antelopes.

Details from my notebook: remote controls for fans and air-conditioners (one in the bedroom and one in the large living area, which has a dominant fireplace); tasteful, not tacky, African art decor; large bathroom with antique, brass-looted bathtub, plus spacious indoor and outdoor showers, the latter with a thoughtfully placed game-viewing window.

Well, what does a lucky couple expect for $800 per night? The rate is inclusive of all meals as well as two game drives per day.

The routine included a morning game drive either with brunch in the bush or lunch near the swimming pool at the lodge, then late afternoon tea and, following that, another game drive and cocktail time at sunset before heading back - with night game viewing en route.

Dinners at Tswalu were casual, featuring African-inspired recipes and copious portions served in the main dining room or under the stars in the boma, a circular enclosure formed of thick, closely woven reeds.

(If any guests want to get away from it all or just have a little privacy, dinner can be served in their individual villas.)

For those of us who chose to join the other guests, after the after dinner drinks a special attendant materialized, with lantern in hand, to escort us along a stonework path to our villas. . . where he had already preadjusted the air-conditioning and turned down the beds.

As one guest was heard to exclaim to no one in particular, while up to his neck in the cooling waters of the pool and gazing out at the expanse of desert extending ad infinitum, "Is this unbelievable or what?"

It is, indeed.

Getting there

Tswalu is located in a malaria-free zone near Kuruman, South Africa, about 40 miles south of Botswana.

South African Airways (SAA) has daily nonstop flights from New York to Johannesburg or from Miami, via Cape Town to Johannesburg, where connections can be made via air charter direct to Tswalu's own 5,000-foot airstrip.

It also can be reached via commuter airline to the old diamond town of Kimberley - a pleasant stopover in itself - then it's an easy 3-hour rental car drive to Tswalu.

For a free brochure, contact Tswalu, P.O. Box 1081, Kuruman, 8460, South Africa. For a video, include $10 to cover shipping, refundable with a booking.

(Africa numbers) phone 011-275378-19211 or fax 011-27-537819238. (U.K. numbers) phone 011-44-1565-830-255 or fax 011-441565-830-518.

Jewish cultural heritage in Germany

The German National Tourist Board has published "Germany for the Jewish Traveler," a 40-page brochure that lists important sites of Jewish cultural heritage in numerous cities, towns and villages. Synagogues, community centers, museums and memorial sites are included.

For a free copy, contact the German National Tourist Office, 122 E. 42nd St., New York, NY 10168-0072; phone 212/661-7200, or fax 212/661-7174, or website http://www.germany-tourism.de.

'Berlin As It Used To Be'

Every Sunday at midday, the Adria Cinema in Steglitz, Germany, shows a film called "Berlin As It Used To Be."

This documentary film, shot by Leo de Laforgue in the early 1940s, was banned by the Nazis because they were afraid of the contrast it presented with a Berlin already marked by the ravages of war. It was not until 1950 that the film was premiered, and since then it has been shown every week without a break. The narrator is Friedrich Luft.

The film brings back memories to older people who know what Berlin was like without the Wall and ghostly underground railway tunnels and with a city center worthy of the description. Younger viewers are astonished to find what a noisy, bustling and dynamic city Berlin was and how much life there was on Potsdarner Platz.

On show with "Berlin As It Used To Be" is another film called "The Berlin Royal Palace," where an art exhibition was held in 1946 shortly after the end of the war.

De Laforgue was also on the spot with his camera when the remains of the palace were blown up on the orders of Walter Ulbricht.

For more info, contact Adria Film-theater, Schlossstr. 48,12165 Berlin, Germany. For tickets, phone ++49 (0)30 25 00 25, or fax ++49 (0)30 25 00 2424.

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