UNESCO World Heritage Site - Cyprus

While living in Cyprus as a Fulbright Professor from August '90 to February '91, I visited the UNESCO site of Paphos.

It is well worth a visit of two or three days to visit both the Byzantine church of Ayia Kyriaki and the ancient city sites of Paphos.

At Ayia Kyriaki, you can see mosaics, columns and earlier Roman foundations which were incorporated into the basilica. Also on the site is a partially excavated Roman forum.

Some guidebooks will inform you that one of the pillars is the one to which St. Paul was tied in order to receive his punishment of 39 lashes; this, however, has not been documented.

Paphos is most famous for its Roman mosaics, but it also entices the visitor with the "Tombs of the Kings," small museums, old churches, a restored Roman theater, a fortress and nearby beaches.

Paphos abounds with hotels, from 5-star resorts to inexpensive rooms with kitchen facilities. At the time of my visit, development had not yet masked the town's original identity as a small fishing village.

Also designated by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site are the painted churches in or near the Troodos Mountains. Built for a preliterate population, the churches themselves illustrate the main stories and concepts of Christianity.

When arriving in town, it's easiest to ask residents the location of the church (panayia) you wish to visit, as the churches are small and sometimes off the beaten path. Also, you may need to track down the local priest - not a difficult task; just check the nearest cafe. Most will gladly unlock the church doors and show you around. A small donation to the church is appreciated.

From the more than two dozen churches, basilicas and monasteries we visited during our 6-month stay, I have, with difficulty, selected my personal "top five" (including Ayia Kyriaki). Visiting these churches will provide you with a variety of church and fresco styles; more importantly, you can see many interesting villages and lovely landscapes of Cyprus.

Asinou Church (also known as Panayia Phorbiotissa) is tops on nearly everyone's list. It is not in a village, so it's necessary to have a car or take a taxi to this church as well as stop at the nearest village, Nikitari, to pick up the priest.

The church is off the main NicosiaTroodos road, approximately 15 km south of Peristerona. It sits alone on a hill but is surprisingly busy on Sunday, when you can count on it being open in the morning hours.

While "in the neighborhood," you should visit the Byzantine church in Peristerona, known as the Church of Sts. Barnabas and Hilarion. These two churches can easily be visited in a half-day trip from Nicosia.

My personal favorite is the church of Arakas (Panayia tou Arakou), located just outside Lagoudhera, a typical mountain village. Its frescoes are generally considered the finest on the island.

The stone church is nestled into the side of the mountain with views of terraced vineyards.

The priest lives in the building next to the church, so it's easy to visit. Although he doesn't speak much English, he directs your attention to the elaborate murals of New Testament scenes. The church is about 15 km from Agros, off the Kakopetria-Troodos-Limassol road.

Approximately 25 km from Langoudhera, the church of Ayios Nikolaos tis Stegis (St. Nicholas Under the Roof) is worth a visit, both on its own merits and because it is near the pleasant resort town of Kakopetria. This town and the nearby village of Galeta boast several interesting churches. There are several hotels, restaurants and shops in Kakopetria, as it is a popular resort for Cypriots.

The Monastery of St. Neophytes, 9 km north of Paphos, has cave rooms covered with wall paintings. The monastery sits among a lovely group of buildings and grounds with marvelous frescoes and spectacular views from the high mountain site.

Cyprus, only 59 miles wide and 140 miles long, is easily explored independently. If renting a car and driving on the left is too daunting, you can easily take "sevice taxis" from place to place for a very reasonable cost.

Though rather heavily traveled, the roads in Cyprus are well maintained, and none of the trips I've mentioned are difficult.

Tourist information offices in the main cities will give you excellent maps, brochures and directions.

COPYRIGHT 1998 Martin Publications, Inc.
COPYRIGHT 2004 Gale Group