Japan �� it can be visited without busting the bank

When I opened my mail one day near the end of last April, I noticed that Continental Airlines was offering its frequent flyers a round trip to Tokyo from any of the cities they serve in the 48 states for only 25,000 frequent-flyer miles. The usual amount is from 50 to 60 thousand.

For a number of years I had passed through Tokyo's Narita International Airport on the way to Hong Kong, Singapore and Bangkok but had never visited either the city or elsewhere in Japan because of the cost. I understand that Tokyo is probably the most expensive place in the world for hotel rooms, meals and transportation, and as a cheapskate traveler I had delayed a visit there.

Networking pays off

Well, this deal sounded too good to Pass up; I contacted the frequent-flyer department at Continental and set up a trip leaving on the 6th of May and returning on the 13th. I would have preferred 10 days or two weeks, but these were the only flights available since the rules said the offer was over by the 15th of the month.

To digress, I was in Madrid, Spain, a little over a year before and wandered over to the Plaza del Sol, which is said to be the center of the city. It was a Sunday afternoon and I sat down on a bench to watch the activities there. Sitting next to me was a Japanese couple on a tour and we became encyaged in conversation. They lived on the outskirts of Tokyo and had been involved in a worldwide organization named SERVAS. One of their daughters, Yoko Marube, was also a member and lived in Tokyo. Before saying good-bye we exchanged addresses and took photos of each other.

SERVAS promotes peace and world understanding through visiting. As a traveler, you can stay with a host in a foreign land at no cost for one or two nights. You do not have to be a host and if you prefer to just visit others this is okay.

Another world traveler, Carroll Chandler, who also writes of his travels and has traveled as a courier like me, has been an e-mail friend for several years. I knew he was a member of SERVAS so I contacted Carroll and he kindly gave me a letter of recommendation to join. I joined the organization and when they sent me the host list for Japan there was Yoko Murabe listed, complete with, her e-mail address. I contacted Yoko and over the next couple of days we sent messages back and forth.

I found out that her parents were leaving to take a one-week tour of Germany on the same day I was arriving. Therefore, I would be unable to see them during my trip, but Yoko made arrangements to meet me the evening of my arrival. Carroll also had mentioned that he had heard of a reasonable place to stay in Tokyo, the Tokyo Anabaptist Center. It is run by a missionary group and has three rooms that Visitors can rent; they are pleased to take in anyone, not just members of their own group, which is a branch of the Mennonite church here in America.

I e-mailed the missionary who runs the center, Koz Enomoto, and he promptly replied, offering me a single room at [yen]3,500 per night (US$30 @ [yen]117 per dollar). For Tokyo, this is a very cheap price for a place to stay.

Prior to leaving for the Far East, I contacted the Japan National Tourist Organization in New York and they sent me a wonderful packet of tourist information. I also had read in International Travel News that Kintetsu International Consultants in San Francisco would sell me the Japan Railways pass. I phoned Ms. Carolyn Masuda there and she arranged delivery of it within days. You must purchase the pass prior to arriving in Japan. My 7-day pass cost $248 and was a bargain, considering the cost of a one-way trip from Tokyo to Kyoto would have been $107. I more than got my money's worth since I used the pass to get to and from Narita International, which is over an hour from Tokyo center, as well as to visit Kyoto, Nara, Hakone and Kamakura and at times also within metropolitan Tokyo itself.

Feeling at home

Leaving, my home in Maryland on Thursday morning, I flew to Houston where I changed planes for the 12-hour flight to Japan. Crossing the international date line, I arrived at Narita International Airport at about 4 p.m. Friday, cleared Customs and Immigration and had my JR pass validated before I took the train to the Shinjuku rail station on the western side of the city. I could have taken the subway to the Anabaptist Center, but because I was to meet Yoko at 7 p.m. I took a taxi; the cost for the short ride was US$23! That was the last cab trip I took.

Koz and his American wife, Lois, along with their 10-month-old daughter, Erica, met me at the gate of the center and made me feel right at home. Not only did I have a reasonable place to stay, it was like being with a family and living in a local neighborhood, which gives one a real sense of how the local people live.

Yoko arrived and it was like meeting an old friend. She kindly gave me pointers on what to see and how to get around by train and subway, which saved me a lot of headaches and time. I had wanted to stay with a SERVAS host, but since I had only joined a few days before I left home and most hosts request a one-week notice by phone or letter, I had not made these arrangements. Yoko did call a friend of hers. in the Kyoto area to see if I could stay with him while I was visiting that city, but he apologized that he couldn't do it at this time because his wife was ill.

I walked Yoko to the subway station and we made arrangements to meet on the last night of my visit and have dinner so I could fill her in on all I had done during my brief stay.

Saturday, my first day

My inner clock was still on Maryland time and I awoke wide-eyed at about 4:30 a.m. with the sun coming up. I dressed and strolled around the local neighborhood watching Tokyo come alive. I noticed that it must have been garbage collection day and that all the houses and: small businesses had wrapped and tied up their refuse like they were gifts.

Believe me, the Japanese are extremely neat and clean. When you enter anyone's home, you leave your shoes at the front door and there are rows of slippers for guests and people of the household to slip into. To go even further, before you go into the bathroom you take off the "household slippers" and slip into a pair of "toilet" slippers. Now? that is really being hygienic!

After a breakfast with Koz and Lois I headed to the local subway. As I walked there I perused the Tokyo transportation map and started to tremble. One look at it and you will see there are about 10 different lines crisscrossing that large city of over 12 million. I wondered how I would ever find my way, but my fears were unfounded.

Anytime I was in doubt on what line to use or which train to take in what direction, I would look puzzled at the map and some kind person would come over to me and help. It turns out that a very large percentage of the Japanese people, at least in the cities, speaks some English. I found the Japanese people to be some of the friendliest I have ever met, and many would walk me a block or so out of their way to make sure I was going in the correct direction.

I spent the morning and part of the afternoon visiting the Imperial Palace grounds and then headed up to Ueno Imperial Park where there are a number of museums as well as the zoo and other attractions. Since it was Saturday there were crowds of people everywhere enjoying their day off. Many groups of schoolchildren in uniforms were being shepherded by tour leaders each with a small flag on a stick and a "bullhorn," leading the way from one place to another.

Senior citizens in Tokyo and the surrounding area can get free or discounted admissions to museums and art galleries. Just bring your passport or any document that proves you are 65 or older.

By late afternoon I was winded and headed back to my room for a rest. That evening I headed out for dinner at one of the local neighborhood restaurants. In Japan almost every restaurant will have plastic displays in their front window showing the various food dishes they offer. These dishes look just like the real thing. I would find one I thought I might like and then would get the waiter or waitress to come outside with me, pointing to the dish I desired. A few times the dishes were a surprise to me, but they all were good.

Prices in the small restaurants I frequented ranged from $5 for a bowl of noodles with a sprinkling of fish and vegetables to $15 for a complete set meal; therefore I didn't find the cost of food expensive. I, of course, was not eating in the major hotels and top-flight restaurants where expense accounts pay the bills.

Sunday, off to Nara

I was up and on my way at 6 a.m. to the train station. During the 3-hour-plus train ride I decided to change trains in Kyoto and go on to Nara since it was a smaller city and I could spend the afternoon seeing the various sites. I would then spend the night in Nara and on Monday visit Kyoto.

When I arrived in Nara I went directly to the tourist information counter in the railroad station and a kind lady phoned a ryokan (Japanese inn). It was a 10-minute walk to the Tsubakiso ryokan, which is situated on a small side street be hind a wall about eight feet high. I rang the bell and the front door was opened by the owner, Noriko Hirasawa. She kindly led me to my room, where we left our shoes outside.

We then entered the main part of the quarters walking on the woven-straw mats. I was instructed to sit on the floor behind, a low table about 14 inches off the floor and Noriko then poured me a refreshing cup of green tea. Only then did we get down to business, having me fill out the form with the necessary home address, etc. She kindly gave me a map of the city and pointed out places to visit.

Nara is, a small place and I had no need for public transportation. I walked to Kofuku-ji temple and admired its beauty. While standing there a gentleman came over and asked if I needed direction. His name was Hiroyuki Oya and he was a high school history teacher from Osaka. He was in Nara to once again see the sights. He asked if he might accompany any me in my wanderings so he could practice his English, and I in turn got the best end of the bargain since I had my very own tour guide who knew the history of what I was seeing that day. Once again it gave me the chance to get to know more about the average person in this interesting country.

We went from temple to temple throughout Nara Park as he filled me in on many subjects. Among the most interesting things there are the 1,200 sacred deer that live in the park. They have no fear of people since they are free to roam everywhere in the park and people bring them bread like one would feed the pigeons in Trafalgar. Square in London. One can feed them, pet them or handle their horns. It's amazing!

After several hours of sightseeing I bid Hiro good-bye and headed back to the ryokan for a rest. Noriko opened a closet in my room and stacked six or seven tatamis one upon the other till I had a mattress about seven inches high. She then tucked in a sheet and put a comforter over it and placed a pillow for my weary head. It wasn't too long before I was in "never, never land."

Before I went to bed that night Noriko had asked what time I would like to have breakfast. At 8 a.m. I walked over to the dining room, left my shoes outside and sat on a cushion on the floor. Noriko came in with a tray which had an egg, toast and some fresh fruit along with a pot of coffee. Outside I could see the small garden complete with sculptures and a small pond with birds coming and going. It certainly was a peaceful setting and conducive to lingering but I had a full day of sightseeing in Kyoto ahead of me.

Arriving back in Tokyo just in time for the homeward rush hour, I got a taste of how hectic the subways can be in that huge city. I certainly was impressed by both the subway system as well as the railways. No graffiti here,, and uniformed railway personnel are everywhere to help you.

By 11 a.m. I was in Kyoto and checked my bag at the station. Stopping at the tourist information counter, I inquired about a guided tour but was informed that the only English-language tour had left an hour earlier and the next wouldn't be until late in the afternoon. I took my map and headed to the Higashi Hongan-ji Temple, the city's largest wooden structure, and then the nearby Nishi Hongan-ji temple. Also nearby is the. To-ji Temple and the country's tallest pagoda. There were a number of other interesting sites, but by early afternoon my poor old arthritic knees were about to give out so, after a lunch in a restaurant in one of the large department stores, I headed back to the railroad station.

I got back to my room at the Anabaptist Center, washed up and went to a local sushi restaurant for a wonderful meal of raw fish washed down with a cold bottle of beer.

Tuesday -- a long day

Up at the crack of dawn I was off to Kamakura where the "Big Buddha" is located. This small coastal town is about an hour from Tokyo. Back in 1192 it was the seat of the feudal government. Its most famous attraction is its giant bronze Great Buddha, 11.4 meters high. It now sits out in the open air, ever since a tidal wave swept away the original building back in 1495.

When I arrived at the railroad station I walked out to where the local buses are parked and asked a fellow which one to take to see this main attraction. He advised me to take number 4, which dropped me at the gate: After paying my entrance fee I walked through a path shaded by large bushes and trees, then all of a sudden the area' opened up and right before me was the impressive "Daibutsu"! I was the first one there in the morning and, let me tell you, I was stunned' by the sight of him sitting there' with not another soul in sight.

There were several temples in the area but I decided to go on to Hakone, so I retraced my steps and took another train for about an hour to the city of Odawara.

Exiting the station, I found a travel agency and purchased a one-day pass for $29 which allowed me to make a circuit of this lovely area. I first got on a bus, which took about an hour going through wooded areas with thousands of azalea bushes in full flower. The bus climbed higher and higher up the mountains till we arrived at Lake Ashi. I then boarded a full-sized replica of a 300-year-old English sailing vessel, which took about a half hour to get to the far end of the lake. There I took a cable car similar to those you see at ski slopes. At one time, near the top, I could see the steam coming from crevices in the ground of this volcanic area.

After a half hour in the cable car I transferred to another cable train similar to those in San Francisco for the journey down through a steeply wooded grove to a place where I boarded an electric train for the ride back to Odawara. The circular trip had taken about four hours and I had had the chance to see what some say is the most beautiful area of Japan.

Wednesday -- Tokyo sights

I had been told that I should not miss the Tokyo fish market in the Tsukiji area. It opens at 5 a.m. and most of the action is over by 10, so I was up at my usual early hour and arrived at the market at about 6:30 a.m. only to find that it is closed on Wednesdays. So much for an early start.

Another American tourist was also standing there scratching his head and we decided to head up to the Asakusa district where the Senso-ji Temple is situated along with a magnificent pagoda as well as the Kaminari-mon Gate. There are many small shops nearby where one can purchase souvenirs or just browse. We spent some time there and then headed to Ginza where the major stores and fancy shops are situated.

After a look around I bid my fellow tourist good-bye and went back to the center so that I could wash up and meet Yoko for dinner that evening. She sent me a fax complete with map of where I was to meet her and everything went as planned. I thanked her for all her help and information, hoping that sometime in the future I could repay her for all she had done for me, and invited her and her husband, Hiro, to stay at my home.

Thursday, my last day in Tokyo

My flight home from Narita airport was not till 6 p.m., so I had most of the day to see a few more things. I was up early and retraced my trip to the fish market and it was well worth it. Over 1,200 people work there and it is about the size of 10 football fields. The place is "frantic" with small electric carts running to and fro. Men are wheeling dollies with every type of seafood imaginable. Buyers for restaurants and food chains are sampling and placing orders. Water is running underfoot, so watch your step.

After taking many photos I escaped to the outside where I found a small food stall. I ordered my breakfast of sashimi over a bed of rice and a warm bowl of clear soup -- not typical of an American breakfast, but it sure tasted good.

On the way back I stopped at Tsukii-ji Hontgowan-ji Temple. The original temple was destroyed in the earthquake of 1923 and the new one is patterned after an Indian architectural motif, so it was different looking than all the other temples I had seen that week.

Returning to the center, I packed my things and bid good-bye to Koz and family, thanking them for all their hospitality. I then took the train back to Narita where I caught the flight back home. It had been a hectic week but well worth it. I was glad I had had the opportunity to finally see Japan and meet the people.

COPYRIGHT 2000 Martin Publications, Inc.
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