Seoul, South Korea's vibrant capital - Asia

South Korea has, until recently, been languishing in the shadows of some of the better-known tourist destinations in Asia, like Hong Kong, Singapore and Japan. But travel agents now are getting calls asking, "Where else can I go in Asia?"

There are a number of unjustly neglected countries, including Malaysia, Indonesia and, in particular, South Korea. The country has a great deal to offer to even the most jaded travelers.

Writer Jon Carter Covell capsulized things in saying the following:

"Korea's history spans 5,000 years, the rise of four major religions, countless wars and invasions, internationalism and isolationism, subjugations as a colony and division into two hostile states, become (sic) the hottest spot in the cold war. It also has advanced from an agricultural state to an industrial state in only three decades."

Sprucing up for company

Since the Korean War ended, South Korea and its capital, Seoul, have surged ahead at an amazing pace - advancing from being one of the poorest countries in Asia to the point where it now ranks third in Northeast Asia in per-capita income.

In spite of all of the foregoing tragedies and triumphs, Korea has never lost its very distinct national character. There is much new to be seen, but much of the old remains to be admired.

The 1988 Olympic Games in Seoul spurred a tremendous surge of national spirit. Many new facilities were built. Ancient palaces were restored and a new National Museum opened, as well as a new Folk Art Museum and a Royal Court Museum.

All new public buildings were required to spend 2% of their total costs for public art, such as sculpture gardens. New subway stations added murals and some 50 parks were built.

The famous Han River was spruced up as well, attracting visitors with new cruise boats, 31 riverside parks and other recreational opportunities like swimming, water-skiing and sailing.

It all was very exciting to watch and that spirit continues today.

Korean Air became one of the best carriers in Asia and now has competition from fledgling Aseana. Most international airlines, including a number of American entries, have added South Korea to their Asian route structures. It's a snap to get there!

Hotels to mention

In the heart of the fashionable Myong Dong shopping and entertainment district are several hotels worthy of recommendation. The Hotel Lotte is probably the best known. It is huge, has lots of good food and beverage outlets and is adjacent to the Lotte Department Store, which is arguably Korea's finest.

Practically next door are the Westin Chosun (which, for my money, has the best rooms), the Seoul Plaza and the President Hotel. The President is a bit less stylish than the three deluxe properties but is just as well located and has considerably lower prices.

The popular Itaewon shopping district has a fairly new hotel, the Capital, which is infinitely superior to the old Hamilton Hotel.

Fine hotels now dot the city. I particularly like the Hotel Shilla (with its loverly views of the city), the Hyatt Regency Seoul (in a park-like setting looking south to the Han River) and, to a bit lesser extent, the Seoul Hilton.

The Ramada Renaissance, InterContinental and Lotte World are relatively convenient to the Korean Exhibition Center and World Trade Center but are otherwise a bit too far from the action, for my taste. The Sheraton Walker Hill is even more remote but does boast a casino.

Upscale dining

Much of the fine dining in Seoul is at the better hotels. Hugo's at the Hyatt, The Seasons at the Hilton and, most particularly, the Ninth Gate at the Chosun have pleased me on previous visits.

There are a surprising number of good Italian restaurants - evidently favored foreign cuisine with locals as well as many visitors. All over Asia, upscale Italian has been taking the place of classic French food at many of the better hotels. This is a trend that I applaud.

Things to see and do

Be sure and visit the magnificent Kyongbok Palace, originally built in 1395 and restored several times since. The grounds are truly beautiful and the museum is of real interest.

Also, the Changdok Palace, which was used as the royal residence until 1910, is very worthwhile.

The wildly colorful East Gate Market is a must. A bit less interesting but also fascinating is the South Gate Market, near the Hilton Hotel.

A day trip outside of Seoul that you're sure to like is one to the Korean Folk Village - a step back 200 years. It is a living, working village of traditional craftsmen in ancient constume, living in houses much like those of their ancestors and practicing traditional arts and crafts.

The trip to the Panmunjom Truce Village, on the border with North Korea, is, alas, not terribly exciting. Perhaps it is only of interest to Korean War buffs.

The South Korean economy is spectacularly successful, particularly when compared to the moribund economy m the North.

The North and the South governments still are at odds, but the people are all Korean and, after more than 30 years, are unlikely to provoke any truly serious hostilities. It seems North Korea sometimes thinks it can better hold its collapsing country together by generating an imaginary threat by the south.

Korea is no longer the bargain shopper's paradise it was about 10 years ago. There is, however, still plenty of value for the careful shopper who is not afraid to prowl the markets and do a bit of haggling.

Korean silk in bold but somehow subtle colors, embroidery, dolls, custom-made shoes and clothing, ready-to-wear clothes, smoky topaz and amethyst jewelry, ancient scroll paintings, inexpensive luggage and sporting goods, carved wooden chests, celadon and porcelain: the list goes on.

In future issues I'll be covering two of my favorite Korean destinations outside side of Seoul: Kyongju, a city often described as a "Museum Without Walls," and the beautiful island called Cheju-Do, in the far south.

COPYRIGHT 1994 Martin Publications, Inc.
COPYRIGHT 2004 Gale Group