Cheju Island, Korea's subtropical gem - Asia - travel in South Korea

Cheju Island, some 60 miles off the south coast of Korea, is often called the "Hawaii of the Orient." This may be stretching the analogy a bit, since winter temperatures sometimes can be chilly, but the other three seasons are pleasant, indeed. May through October are probably the best months to visit.

Nearly 20 years ago, a national news magazine chose the island as one of the world's 10 most unspoiled paradises. It has changed slowly since then but still ranks high on the list of desirable Asian destinations.

Travelers from around the world are beginning to discover this small paradise--it's about 25 miles from north to south and 45 miles from east to west. The native population numbers about 500,000 and is concentrated primarily in the cities of Cheju and Sogwipo.

The island has frequent air service and regular ferryboats from mainland Korea. A minimum of two days would be necessary to see just the highlights of the island and a longer stay would be well rewarded.

Among highlights

Impressive Mt. Hallasan, snowcapped in winter, rises some 2,000 feet above the plains. The second-highest mountain in Korea, and one of the most holy, it is an extinct volcano, with some 360 small "parasite" volcano cones scattered about the island. The crater of Hallasan contains beautiful White Deer Lake.

Ancient volcanic eruptions on the island have created a fantastic landscape, with a particularly dramatic jagged coastline. There also are marvelous beaches along both the north and south shores. In the spring, vast fields of bright yellow rape blossoms brighten the landscape. Bananas, papayas, pineapples, oranges and tangerines are grown there.

The island has a number of fabulous waterfalls. Ninety-five-foot Chongbang Waterfall cascades almost directly into the sea. Chongjiyon and Chongjeyon falls are even more beautiful, being surrounded by rich and varied vegetation.

A few other sightseeing highlights include the following.

In the city of Cheju, the Cave of the Three Spirits is well worth visiting.

Kwandok-jong Pavilion, dating back nearly 500 years, has been declared a National Treasure.

Song-up Village has been designated as a special folklore preservation zone by the Korean government.

The famed women divers of Cheju are a "must see." They free-dive for fish, shellfish, seaweed and squid. In the recent past, there were more than 25,000 divers.

The Snake and Manjang lava-tube caves, near the village of Hamdok on the north coast, offer lamplight tours during the summer months. They're a bit spooky, but most enjoy the visit. They cultivate mushrooms in many of the smaler caves on the island.

Roughly carved stone statues, called harubang (stone grandfathers), are everywhere. They often are at the entrances to villages and are thought to be "guardians."

Cheju Tourist Service offers a number of modestly priced tours to all important points on the island.

Stay, eat, shop

There are a number of fine hotels from which to choose.

In Cheju city, the Cheju Grand Hotel has a fine 36-hole golf course and the Cheju KAL Hotel, a casino.

Overlooking the Pacific Ocean, the Sogwipo KAL Hotel is very attractive and the neighboring Hyatt Regency Cheju has a casino. They are part of Sogwipo's Chungmun Resort area.

The deluxe hotels have fine restaurants, generally Korean, Japanese and Western. Korean-style restaurants, particularly near the port areas, are fine for the somewhat more adventurous; little English is spoken, but the good-natured Koreans will find a way to feed you well for a moderate price.

shopping can be an interesting adventure. Many of the small gifts and souvenirs are carved from basalt (lava rock).

The Hallim weavers' village on the northwest coast is a worthwhile stop. Roman Catholic priests and nuns trained Koreans to make fine woolen goods, like sweaters, skirts, scarves and more, in traditional Irish patterns. You can see all of the steps from the shearing of the sheep to the finished products.

Antique shops are loaded with exotic goods, and duty-free shops at the airport have a variety of attractive local goods as well as the usual watches, perfumes, etc.

Between North and South

Any extended trip to Korea should ideally include Seoul, Kyongju (written about in June and October '94 issues) and Cheju Island, called Chejudo in Korean. The 5,000-year-old culture, although similar to those of both China and Japan in some ways, has many unique and fascinating characteristics.

Unlike the poor, backward North, South Korea has become an economic marvel in recent years.

Enmity between North and South has risen and fallen over the years; both have used it for their own reasons: the North to convince their people that continuing sacrifices are needed to protect them against the "enemy," and the South to justify a continuing strong military.

The posturing has continued for more than 30 years, but neither would seem to have anything to gain from active hostilities. The rhetoric has calmed in recent years and talks between the two sides have been going on behind closed doors.

Is it safe to travel to South Korea? I've made seven or eight visits in recent years and would not hesitate to recommend it to family and friends. I feel far safer there than in many American cities.

Go -- and enjoy this friendly, intriguing country.

COPYRIGHT 1994 Martin Publications, Inc.
COPYRIGHT 2004 Gale Group