Chillin' In Chile

Life in Santiago can be an adventure or laid back. It's your choice.

The pigeon just barely got away from Idalia's grasp.

The 4-year-old let out a shrill scream of glee as she gave chase.

Then she fell down. As she got up and looked at her parents, the expression of surprise on her face turned to a frown. And then she cried.

Her dad, Master Sgt. Vic Maciel, rushed over and picked up his little bundle of energy.

"It's OK. You're all right," he said while brushing dirt from her knees. "No harm done." He hugged and kissed her.

Then he told her, "See, the pigeons are waiting for you. Go get 'em."

Squirming lose from dad's grasp, Idalia resumed her chase.

The nip of spring rustled through the trees in the well-groomed park they were visiting. On a nearby bench, Maciel's wife, Rosa, smiled and basked in the warm morning sun. He went back and put his arm around her. Then they kicked back -- chilled out -- and watched their child play.

"It's so gorgeous here. So peaceful," Rosa said. "I could stay here all day doing nothing."

Nearby, an older couple in church clothes walked a pair of yapping poodles. On an ornate bench under a tree, a young man whispered sweet nothings in his giggling girlfriend's ear. A young woman with spiked blue hair, orange garb and dark sunglasses jogged by. And at a cafe on a side street, people read newspapers as they sipped coffee.

At the Plaza de Italia -- an island that splits the busy avenue in front of the park -- sat a giant statue of an 1800s Chilean war hero. The cavalryman, on his bronze steed, gazes toward the snow-capped Andes Mountains.

Off in the distance a statue of the Virgin Mary -- on 2,800-foot San Cristobal Hill -- stood guard over another beautiful, and peaceful, Sunday morning in Santiago, Chile.

The sprawling capital will be the Maciel's home for the next three years. It's also the workplace and home for a handful of U.S. troops who work at the U.S. Military Group-Santiago and the U.S. Embassy. They're all far from the benefits of military life they've grown used to.

But the Maciels are excited about what lies ahead, and the experiences they'll share.

"There's so much to see and do here," said Maciel, the group's noncommissioned officer in charge of operations. "So much history. So much culture. And so much hospitality."

Hospitality. Chileans are known for it. And they'll argue with zeal that their capital, the jewel in their 2,700-mile-long string bean of a country, has no rival in South America.

Maciel thinks so, too. "It's beautiful. There's more here than you can hope to do," he said.

Old and new

Spanish conquistador Pedro de Valdivia founded Santiago in 1541. Since then, it's provided Chile's heartbeat. Its political, economic and cultural pulse.

The fifth largest city in South America, more than 6 million people live there. That's almost half of Chile's population. It lies on a wide plain 2,500 feet above the Pacific Ocean, which is 60 miles away. And another 10 miles to the east are the Andes.

It's the most European city in South America. A mix of the old and new. But a distinct Latin flavor spices up its quaint European charm. Modern skyscrapers and relics of its colonial past grace it. It's full of wide, tree-lined avenues, picturesque plazas and majestic churches and public buildings. Scores of parks surround it. And the Mapocho River cuts it in half.

Santiago's historic central square -- the Plaza de Armas -- is the hub around which city life revolves. Landscaped with trees and benches, it's a favorite hangout for "Santiaguinos."

Sitting on a plaza bench, Pato Urra sipped a Coke and ate a huge "completo." That's a Chilean hotdog topped with everything but the kitchen sink and smothered in mayonnaise. Like most Chileans, he has an opinion on Santiago.

"It's simple. Santiago is Chile," he said. "If there's no Santiago, there's no Chile."

That's one reason the Maciels feel lucky to be there. Santiago, they say, has an underlying sense of adventure. It has mesmerized them.

And it has cast a spell on other U.S. troops who serve there, said Lt. Col. Dana Willis.

"They didn't stamp Santiago from a mold," said Willis, the military group's Air Force section chief. "It's unique and will Surprise you."

So will other things about the city. One of the first observations is how crowded the city is. It has world-class traffic jams. Terrible smog. Earthquakes. Potholes that can swallow small cars in some parts of town. And gas that costs $3.50 a gallon.

"Chilenos" speak rapid-fire Spanish. Are prone to drive like they own the road. Love their wine. Adore a good argument. And will fight at the drop of a hat for their soccer team's honor.

Military families won't find a commissary or exchange. Or military housing, schools and medical facilities. Or any of the traditional support agencies found at military bases.

That'll test those used to life with all the on-base bennies. Those used to popping into a 24-hour convenience store at 3 a.m. for a six-pack and a can of sardines.

But the Willises, Dana and Brenda, said life in Santiago is not unlike living in any large city. Newcomers adapt fast. They said pros of living there far outweigh the cons.

"We knew there would be challenges," Willis said. "But we also knew coming here would be a once in a lifetime opportunity."

Brenda said their teen-age daughter, Katherine, sealed the decision to make the move. "She said, 'If we're going to move overseas, we might as well go someplace nobody else goes."'

They don't regret their choice. Although a jar of American peanut butter costs $7 -- "and we have five kids who love 'PB and J' sandwiches," she said.

But nobody goes hungry, she said. Local supermarkets sell most goods found in American stores. And department stores and malls "are just like back home." They just cost more.

"Plus, you can always wait for the commissary plane," she said. That's an Air Force transport that once a month delivers, among other things, "the groceries" to the military group and embassy staff. They place bulk orders via a computer. So most buy a freezer and stock up.

And Santiago has nearly every American fast food joint for the junk food fix.

Those who learn to shop where the Chileans buy will find cheaper food prices.

On the other hand, housing isn't cheap. Military families must live in designated areas. The Maciels pay $1,800 a month, The Willises plunk down nearly $3,000. Troops receive added rent money, a cost of living allowance and extra funds to help to defray utility costs.

There are plenty of homes to choose from, though. Thousands went up during Chile's economic boom. But now it's in a recession, so there's a glut.

"It's a renter's market," said Army Lt. Col. Sergio de la Pena, the group's Army section chief. "You can afford to be picky -- wait for what you want."

The de la Penas did just that, A realtor showed them 15 homes before they picked one. It was worth the wait, he said. Their home, about 10 miles from the embassy, is at the foot of the mountains. It's in a secluded, gated community with a park. It's quiet and has few traffic woes.

There's a choice on where to send children to school. They may go to a private international school or a private Chilean school. The Willises have their children in the city's top international school. Uncle Sam foots the bill for school-age children. But the Maciels, who send Idalia to pre-kindergarten, must pay $250 a month out of their pockets until she enters kindergarten.

But it's worth the cost, Maciel said. They enrolled Idalia in a Chilean school to immerse her in the Spanish language and culture. The de la Penas send their children to a Chilean school for the same reason. But since the children are older, the government pays the cost.

The only other concern newcomers have -- medical care -- isn't really a concern, Willis said. Santiago has Chile's best hospitals. Service members have a choice of two of the best for care. And they don't pay for visits or care. TRICARE picks up the tab, he said.

Settling in

So, yes, a move to Santiago has its hassles. Adjustments. No doubt about it.

But that's true of all moves, said Air Force Col. Alex Trujillo, military group commander. So there's no shortage of volunteers for group jobs. He talks to everyone who applies.

"I tell them all the same thing," he said. "First, that Santiago is a great assignment for a family. And that it takes a bit more initiative on their part to adjust. But I also tell them we have all the tools to help them."

The biggest tool is the group's "we care about you" mindset. That ensures a helping hand when needed. And it's the best way to pass on lessons learned, tips and "how to's."

"We make sure of that," he said.

The Maciels also get help from Sergio and Elena Orellana. They met the Orellanas while serving in Mexico City. The Maciels helped them settle into the Mexican capital.

"They received us like family. Went out of their way to help us our first few months," said Orellana, a chief master sergeant equivalent in the Chilean army, "We're great friends."

Now it's Orellana's turn to help. He knows the ins and outs of the capital like the back of his hand. He's passing his knowledge to the Maciels because he wants his friends to appreciate the city he loves and its people.

"I want them to learn about all there is to do here," he said.

Santiago has a lot to offer -- day and night. Whether it's that leisurely stroll in a park or a night of dinner and dancing. There are a host of things to do in between.

"It's a great place to collect antiques," said Trujillo's wife, Sila. "And there are many cultural activities, like the ballet and symphony."

The city has appeal for any taste. After all, it's had 460 years to refine its allure.

"There are a million things to do here," said Oscar Maldonado, a Chilean who has lived in Santiago 50 years. "If you can't find something you like to do, then you don't know how to live."

To really know Santiago you have to mingle with the people, he said.

A good way to do that is to visit the city center. Take a stroll up the Paseo Ahumada, a walking area lined with stores, restaurants, money exchanges and coffee shops, There are benches every 30 yards. And a shoeshine costs less than 50 cents.

At night, it's a haven for street vendors -- who hawk everything from cassettes to cheap rings -- plus singers, dancers and jugglers. It's where many Chilean comedians get their start.

Santiago has dozens of open-air markets that specialize in local wares. It's full of museums and art galleries. At O'Higgins Park, there's a replica of a typical Chilean village. And in front of the presidential palace, La Moneda, there's a daily changing of the guard ceremony.

The Bellavista section of town -- known as the Paris quarter -- is one of the liveliest. It has scores of nightclubs and ethnic restaurants. On weekends it draws crowds of tourists and locals.

Best of all, Maciel said, "You don't need to spend a lot of money to have a good time."

Those who venture outside Santiago find another Chile. The rural side. Quiet and laid back. Where housewives bake "empanadas," Chile's traditional meat-filled pastries, in outdoor wood fire ovens. And black-hatted Chilean cowboys round up herds of cattle.

"It's some of the prettiest countryside you'll ever see," Willis said.

It's also grape country. Home to the vineyards that make Chilean wines some of the best in the world. Almost equidistant from Santiago are beaches and ski slopes. There's a desert to explore in the north. And trout fishing and camping in the country's lake district in the south.

There's a lot to do in Chile. So how well a Santiago tour goes depends on how much a person wants to do, Maciel said. Those who shut themselves up at home will struggle to fit in.

"And miss out getting to know Chile and its people," he said. "And that's a shame."

But those who venture out will find that Chileans will welcome them with open arms. So the Maciels don't plan to spend much time at home.

The secret to doing that is to make friends, Maciel said. And he's doing that. After spending a day working at a Chilean air base, he went home with five dinner invitations.

"Chileans love to make friends," he said. "And attending to them. That includes finding things for them to do. So I know we'll have a great time here."

COPYRIGHT 2001 U.S. Air Force, Air Force News Agency
COPYRIGHT 2001 Gale Group