Looking backward into the future - wine industry

The California Grape Grower (Wines & Vines after Repeal) opens the July, 1925 issue by beating the drum for the new crop.

By now (1925) a very large number of Eastern "hobby" winemakers were firmly attached to their vinting practices, suppliers and grape varieties. Thus, looking forward to the "crush" was as exciting and happy time as it is today in any winery or as pictured in any old painting. According to my dad's stories, as I remember them, many people began to call him in the late summer, asking all kinds of question about the upcoming crop. Even the railroads got into the act by advising shippers through the press about the availability of cars, locomotives, etc., etc.

The lead story for the July, 1945 issue is, believe it or not, the latest "proclamation" by the-then guardian of our economic life, the OPA. It announced that ceilings on bottled wine would be dropped (prices lowered) and would be in effect until the end of the year. Germany was kaput, Japan was tottering, grapes were plentiful but yet the OPA must do its job.

A record 14,000 acres of grapes were planted during the year. This is in addition to the 10,000 acres planted the previous year. Pre-war new plantings tended to be about 5,000 acres annually, so all segments of the grape industry were preparing for shock waves (even though the term had not yet been invented). Unfortunately for us in the wine business, few of the vines were of the premium variety - 1,200 acres of Palomino, zero of Chardonnay and 10 of Sauvignon vert!

Fromm & Sichel, Inc. (sales agents for Christian Bros. in most states) buys Mount Tivy from guess who - Seagram.

The approach of peace has stimulated the pent-up demand for all sorts of winery construction, from cement floors to new stills and bottling lines, and, of course, new cooperage.

Of great note, to me at least, in this statistical issue of 1965, is Louis R. Gomberg's rumblings about the state of wine consumption. He notes, with some glee, that the consumption of all wine in the U.S. almost broke the one gallon barrier; actually it missed by a hair's breadth, to wit: .97 gallons per capita. Not bad but of even greater importance was the rise of table wine consumption, which was .4 gallons/capita. Very good considering that the previous record was set in 1875 at a level of .39 gallons. To quote the late consultant, "...it's full of promise and, something of a miracle. Why? Product quality is a major reason...".

The editorial in the July '85 issue of W&V is on the "equivalency" issue. Remember that? Editor Hiaring apparently interviewed Sam Bronfman of Seagram Classics Wine Co. and got the word (from Sam) that his (Sam's) data showed that there is no difference in the effect on the body whether the beverage is wine, beer or whiskey, etc., etc. Amazing as to how the issue has faded away. Ever wonder why? Well, I'll give you my opinion: Wine Institute had already proclaimed the evidence that wine was consumed more slowly, and was absorbed more slowly, etc. Then it was revealed that Sam B. had used faulty data. He used champagne, which because of carbonation was absorbed rapidly, and sherry which is near 18% in ethanol content vs. table wine, which is usually 10 to 12%.

A quote from the San Jose Mercury-News of May 23, 1985," A tiny insect is creeping slowly thru-out vineyards killing the plants of the state's multimillion dollar industry". Replies a prof at Davis, "That report and several national press service stories apparently have very little basis in fact".

Gallo releases its first vintage-dated white varietals.

Fresno Fair adds "bulk champagne" to its judgings. I wish they would add table wines also.

"It has become quite a common proverb that in wine there is truth". Pliny the Elder (circa 60 AD)

Quoted again in full to acquaint us with the fact that it was an old proverb in mid-Roman times.

COPYRIGHT 1995 Hiaring Company
COPYRIGHT 2004 Gale Group