Travel: 48 hours in.. Gibraltar

GIBRALTAR is pulling out all the stops to celebrate the 200th anniversary of the Battle of Trafalgar. Starting next month there will be re-enactments, talks and musical displays as well as tours to Cape Trafalgar where Nelson defeated the French fleet. The celebrations culminate in a huge regatta on the big day itself, October 21. But there are plenty of other ways to have fun on one of the last surviving bits of the British Empire, as Travel Channel presenter GARETH DAVIES found out on a 48-hour break in Gib...

FRIDAY NIGHT

FLYING into Gibraltar has a Second World War feel about it. The runway - one of the shortest in the world - was built then, so cue sharp descent, popping ears and fluttering hearts. Once you've landed, everything is within taxi distance of the tiny airport. Head off to the colonial surroundings of The Rock Hotel which was built in 1932 and was where Churchill stayed during his visits. Enjoy an intimate dinner gazing out across Algeciras Bay to the Atlantic. Two courses cost pounds 26 or you can opt for a three-course set menu with a glass of the local sherry or manzanilla for pounds 22.95.

SATURDAY MORNING

GIB'S shops close on Saturday afternoons so get your bargain- hunting in early. The main street is called, er, Main Street and is narrow, semi-pedestrianised and lined with duty- free shops selling cigarettes, booze and perfume. Ciggies are cheap - around pounds 9 for a carton of 200. A bottle of spirits costs pounds 6 less than what you'd pay in the UK. You'll also find a lot of familiar high street names like Burton and Body Shop, as well as the most successful M&S outside the UK, attracting shoppers from as far away as Madrid. It's amazing what people will do for reliable undies!

The main square is Casemates, named after the British barracks that used to occupy the north side of the square. It's a lively social hub with shops and cafes. A great place for lunch is the Lord Nelson Bar and Brasserie, a refurbished barracks. You can get a sandwich for pounds 3.50, a burger for pounds 6.50 (tel. 00 350 50009, www.lordnelson.gi ).

At the south end of Main Street is the Trafalgar Cemetery with gravestones mainly from 1798 to 1814. The Trafalgar ones are easy to spot as they've been scrubbed up for the bicentenary.

SATURDAY AFTERNOON

OF course a must-see is in and around the Rock. Prices of tours range from pounds 12 to pounds 14 for an adult and pounds 6 to pounds 9 for a child. Try Bland Tours (00 350 75552).

The basic tour lasts 90 minutes and includes St Michael's Cave, a spectacular natural grotto, and the Great Siege Tunnels, scraped out of the rock by British soldiers in the 1770s which led to the formation of the Royal Engineers. Then there are the famous apes. Yes, the apes are fun to watch...except when they're trying to gnaw away the strap on your bag. More rewarding is the view. At Europa Point, the southernmost point in Gib, you can stare across to North Africa and the mountain of Jebel Musa which along with Gibraltar's Rock makes up the two ancient Pillars of Hercules.

SATURDAY EVENING

QUEENSWAY Quay is one of many smart marina developments and it's a relaxing place for dinner. Claus On The Rock (14 Queensway Quay, 00350 48686) serves everything from Lebanese mezze to sushi rolls. It's housed in a Moroccan tent, a nod to neighbours across the Straits. Starters are from pounds 3.50, mains from pounds 11 and wine from pounds 14 a bottle. For nightlife, head for Casemates Square where in summer there's free live music.

SUNDAY MORNING

ROCK and Fortress is a new addition to Gibraltar's attractions, offering regular walking tours through some of the 30 miles of tunnels hacked out by by the Royal Engineers during World War Two. There's also a new visitor centre and photographic exhibitions. The tour can be combined with a visit to a section of 18th Century tunnels called the Middle Galleries for pounds 7.50.

A good option for Sunday lunch is the Royal Calpe (176 Main Street, tel 00350 75890). It has a beer garden, a relaxed atmosphere and main courses from around pounds 6.

SUNDAY AFTERNOON

THE perfect way of wrapping up your weekend is a spot of dolphin- watching. Common dolphins are, well, common, but if you're really lucky, you may see the bottlenose and striped variety. Dolphin Safari (Marina Complex, tel 00 34 9567 71914) is the longest running set-up and offers 90-minute excursions that cost pounds 25 for adults and pounds 12 for children.

THE FACTS

GETTING THERE: There are seven flights a week from Heathrow and 10 from Gatwick with GB Airways. For fares, call 0870 850 9850 or see www.ba.com WHERE TO STAY: Two nights B&B in a room with a seaview at The Rock Hotel costs pounds 72pp a night when two share. Book through www. rockhotelgibraltar. com

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