Sicilian-style vegan cuisine

MENTION SICILY TO PEOPLE WHO ARE FAMILIAR with it, and you'll hear about ancient landscapes, a rich history, and ... lots of food! You can't visit a Sicilian household or business and have only a "little taste." The "taste" could be a glass of hearty wine with crusty bread, a delicate dish of olives, or a bitter, bracing, steaming hot espresso accompanied by anisette toast or candied figs.

Over the years, many conquerors left their culinary mark upon this Southern Italian region. For example, carciofi alla Guida (artichokes done in the Jewish way) dates back to Roman times. Thought to be from Jerusalem by way of Rome, this popular dish is prepared by flattening artichokes and sauteing them in olive oil and bread crumbs.

This history has left a legacy upon today's Sicilian pantry, where you would find pasta and rice, sausage (vegan Soyrizo works well), cheeses (soy Parmesan and mozzarella are terrific substitutes), eggplant or melanzane, capers, olives, cauliflower, artichokes, and onions. Flavorings include fennel, oregano, mint, and sesame seeds for savory dishes and nuts, syrups, and sweet wine for desserts.

Wheat is the grain crop in Sicily, and you'll find pasta, pasta, and more pasta. We've seen sweet pasta, angel hair tossed with raisins and pine nuts; seasonal pasta, ravioli stuffed with pureed winter squash or pumpkin; and flied pasta or pastachiutte (pronounced "pasta-shoot-te"), leftover pasta with sauce that is quickly stir-flied in olive oil for a second-day meal.

With the wheat comes lots of crusty bread and rolls and unleavened bread, eaten dipped in olive oil. San vito pizza is a pizza dough topped with savories, such as chopped olives and minced garlic. Scacciata, or bread pie, is made from two dough rounds that have tomatoes and cheeses sandwiched in between them. You can reproduce these with dough made from scratch or with frozen, thawed pizza dough.

There are lots of pasta dishes that incorporate seafood. The sea figures in the life of Sicily, and fish is an important ingredient. One such recipe is pasta con sarde, a layered pie of pasta with a sauce flavored with fennel, sardines, pine nuts, and white raisins. You can make this dish vegan by using smoked tofu or Tuno, a canned vegan product, instead of sardines.

Also, when you think Sicilian cuisine, you must think of lots of olives! Olive trees provide the shade, the cooking oil, and the "vegetable" for Sicily. Olives are often used to make tapenades, which are traditional, flavorful, and usually vegan! For this dish, the olives are hand-minced into a paste and may be flavored with flesh garlic, onions, basil, sage, thyme, or pepper for variety. The result is served as a coarse dip or to replace oil or butter on bread. (If ordering tapenades in a restaurant, check to ensure that some minced anchovy did not find its way into the dish. Anchovies are plentiful in Sicily and are often used as a flavoring ingredient.)

Southern Italy shows the marriage of the olive and the "golden apple." Tomatoes, or pommodaro (literally "apple of gold"), have been a Sicilian staple since they were introduced from the New World. Combined with the traditional olive, fresh tomatoes can be served as a salsa cruda, or flesh sauce. The tomatoes are chopped and thrown into a saute pan with olive oil, chopped olives, a little garlic, and perhaps some basil. This combination is quickly cooked until the tomatoes are lightly wilted and then the sauce is served over pasta. Olives and breadcrumbs are used to stuff tomatoes that are then either baked or braised until soft.

Classic Sicilian flavoring combinations include basil, olive oil, garlic, and pine nuts (also known as pesto or pistou), or a savory mix of olive oil, parsley, and garlic. These combinations can be used to dress pasta, risotto made with short-grained arborio rice (the pearly-looking variety that is the basis of risotto), seasonal cooked greens, roasted potatoes, and breads. Walnuts, almonds, and hazelnuts are plentiful. Often these are used to season sweet and savory dishes or served with fresh or dried fruit.

Sicily has warm summers, and many types of citrus fruit, prickly pear, cactus fruit, melons, and figs grow in season. These fruits are eaten fresh, served simply with a syrup, or dried or canned in syrup or wine for eating year-round. Marsala is a sweet dessert wine, served as a dessert and used as an ingredient in many sweet dishes.

Sicilian cooks take their desserts seriously. It's believed that, in the 800s, the Sarracins introduced Sicily to sophisticated sweets, such as cannoli and cassata, creamy custard studded with raisins. Throwing sugar-coated almonds at weddings for a sweet and fruitful life was thought to originate in Sicily, by way of the Sarracins. Some Sicilian monasteries still compete annually, using closely guarded recipes for candy, confections, and ice creams.

RECIPES

SOUPE AU PISTOU (BEAN SOUP WITH BASIL) (Serves 10)

Although "pistou" is the French term for "pesto, "you'll find this soup thoroughly Sicilian in flavor.

PISTOU

1/4 cup olive oil
4 cloves peeled garlic
1 cup packed fresh basil leaves
  (or about 4 Tablespoons dried basil)

Place oil, garlic, and basil in a
blender or food processor canister.
Blend until smooth. Set aside.

SOUP

1 cup cooked or canned white beans,
  such as navy beans (If starting with
  dry beans, soak and cook 1/2 cup
  beans.)
2 cups chopped onions
5 1/2 cups water
4 cups chopped canned tomatoes
  (with liquid)
3/4 cup tomato paste
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
1 cup fresh or frozen, thawed green
  beans, cut in 1/2-inch lengths
1 baking potato, peeled and diced
  (about 11/2 cups)

Combine beans, onions, water,
tomatoes, tomato paste, and pepper
in a large soup pot. Bring to
a fast boil, lower heat, and allow
soup to simmer, uncovered, for
30 minutes. Add green beans and
potatoes, and simmer until potatoes
are tender, about 20 minutes.
Stir pistou into simmering soup.
Stir and simmer for 3 minutes
or until hot.

Total calories per serving: 159 Fat: 6 grams
Carbohydrates: 23 grams Protein: 5 grams
Sodium: 174 milligrams Fiber: 1 gram

STUFFED SAVORY
PEPPER APPETIZER
(Makes 5 appetizers or 2-3 entrees)

This recipe, which combines such
Sicilian staples as olive oil, garlic,
parsley, and tomatoes, is colorful
and hearty either as an appetizer
or as an entree.

5 fresh red bell peppers
1 Tablespoon olive oil
3 cloves fresh garlic, minced
1/4 cup smoked tofu or Tuna*
1 cup dry bread crumbs
1/2 cup minced fresh parsley
1/2 cup fresh tomatoes, chopped
Vegetable oil spray

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.
Cut peppers in half, across the
"equator," so you can stuff them.
Remove seeds and core. Set aside.

Heat olive oil in a frying pan.
Add garlic and saute until just
golden (do not allow to brown).
Remove from heat.

In a medium bowl, mash
Tuno or smoked tofu. Add garlic
and oil, bread crumbs, and
parsley, and mix well. Put a small
amount of mixture in each pepper
hale Top with tomatoes.

Spray a baking dish or oven
casserole with oil. Place peppers
in dish. Spray a small amount
of oil over each stuffed pepper.
Bake for about 20 minutes or
until peppers are soft.

Note:
* Sicilian cooking gets a lot of its
accent flavor from anchovies or
smoked fish. You can reproduce
this vegan-style by using smoked
tofu or Tuno, a canned vegan
product from Natural Touch.

Total calories per serving: 170 Fat: 5 grams
Carbohydrates: 27 grams Protein: 6 grams
Sodium: 259 milligrams Fiber: 4 grams

CAPONATA
(Makes 10 appetizer portions)

Make this dish during eggplant season,
then freeze or properly can far
use throughout the year. Serve as a
thick dip, sandwich filler, or condiment,
or use instead of a sauce.

  1 large eggplant, peeled and cubed
    (about 3 1/2 cups)
3/4 cup chopped onions
3/4 cup chopped red bell pepper
1/2 cup fresh tomatoes, chopped
1/2 cup chopped celery
1/3 cup pitted and halved green olives
1/4 cup pitted and chopped black olives
1/3 cup olive oil
1/4 cup red wine vinegar or plain vinegar
  1 Tablespoon sugar (Use your favorite
    vegan variety.)
  1 teaspoon dried basil
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper

Place all ingredients in a large pot
and stir. Turn heat to low, and
allow dish to simmer, uncovered,
for 40-50 minutes or until vegetables
are soft and most of the liquid
has evaporated. Allow to cool.
Serve as noted above.

Total calories per serving: 95 Fat: 9 grams
Carbohydrates: 6 grams Protein: 1 gram
Sodium: 113 milligrams Fiber: 2 grams

PANZANELLA
(BREAD SALAD)
(Serves 8)

The texture of the marinated bread
makes for a delightful salad. Serve
on its own or as a stuffing for tomatoes,
summer squash, peppers, or
sweet onions.

  Crusty fresh bread (baguette or Italian
    bread, for example) ripped into small
    pieces to total 1 cup
  2 Tablespoons red wine vinegar
    or plain vinegar
  1 Tablespoon cold water, or as needed
  2 cups chopped fresh tomatoes
1/2 cup chopped red onions
3/4 cup diced fresh cucumber or zucchini
1/2 cup chopped celery
  2 teaspoons shredded fresh basil
  1 teaspoon black pepper
  4 Tablespoons olive oil

In a large glass or plastic bowl,
combine bread, vinegar, and water.
Use enough water to moisten bread
lightly. Don't use so much water
that the bread gets soggy or soupy.

Add tomatoes, onions, cucumbers
or zucchini, celery, basil, and
pepper. Toss, sprinkle olive oil over
mixture, and toss again. Chill for
at least 40 minutes prior to serving.

Total calories per serving: 92 Fat: 7 grams
Carbohydrates: 6 grams Protein: 1 gram
Sodium: 37 milligrams Fiber: 1 gram

SPINACHI IN TEGAME
(SPINACH SAUTEED
WITH GARLIC)
(Serves 6)

A fast, savory side dish.

2 Tablespoons olive oil
6 garlic cloves, minced
2 pounds (or three 10-ounce bogs)
  fresh spinach, washed and trimmed
1 teaspoon block pepper

Place olive oil in a large frying
pan and heat. Add garlic and saute
until just golden. (Do not allow
to brown.) Add spinach, tossing
constantly, until just wilted. Remove
from heat, toss in pepper,
and serve immediately.

Total calories per serving: 78 Fat: 5 grams
Carbohydrates: 7 grams Protein: 5 grams
Sodium: 120 milligrams Fiber: 2 grams

RADICCHIO E FINOCCHIO
(RADICCHIO AND FENNEL
SAUTEED WITH ONIONS)
(Serves 6)

A little more expensive than the
usual side dish but wonderful for
holiday and special meal events.

  2 Tablespoons olive oil
1/2 cup thinly sliced onions
  3 cups sliced fresh fennel
  1 cup shredded fresh radicchio

Place oil in large frying pan and
heat. Add onions and saute until
soft, about 3 minutes.

Add fennel and radicchio,
reduce heat, and cover. Allow
to simmer for about 20 minutes,
stirring occasionally, until fennel
is soft.

Total calories per serving: 58 Fat: 5 grams
Carbohydrates: 4 grams Protein: 1 gram
Sodium: 24 milligrams Fiber: 2 grams

SALSA VERDE (GREEN
SAUCE FOR VEGETABLES)
(Makes about 1 cup)

Traditionally, salsa verde is served
with asparagus, but any vegetable,
potato, or grain will be glad to
associate with it!

  2 cups washed and stemmed fresh
    parsley
  2 Tablespoons drained capers
  2 cloves garlic, minced
1/4 cup red wine vinegar or plain vinegar
1/2 cup olive oil

Place parsley, capers, and garlic
in a food processor or blender
canister and process until smooth.
Continue to process, adding vinegar
and oil in a steady stream.

Alternatively, you can chop the
parsley, capers, and garlic by hand,
if preferred. Then, whisk the vinegar
and oil in slowly until mixture
is very well combined.

Chill until ready to serve, then
warm in a microwave or warm
water bath on top of stove.

Total calories per 2 TB serving: 136 Fat: 14 grams
Carbohydrates: 4 grams Protein: 1 gram
Sodium: 74 milligrams Fiber: 1 gram

SICILIAN SWEET MEATS

Make these little dessert "bites"
ahead of time. Offer a combination
of them as a Sicilian sweet sampler,
with nuts and dried fruit

STUFFED DATES
(Makes about 20 pieces, or 10 servings)

1 pound (about 2 cups) marzipan or
  almond paste
2 pounds (about 4 cups) whole dates
8 ounces (about 1 cup) orange flower water
  (available in Middle Eastern or Mediterranean
  groceries, health foods stores,
  and supermarkets that carry international
  products)
8 ounces (about 1 cup) sugar (use your
  favorite vegan variety)

Shape the marzipan into small balls.
Slice dates almost in half and stuff
with marzipan; press halves together.

Combine orange water and
sweetener in a small pot and bring
to a boil. Lower heat and simmer
for 5 minutes.

Dip dates into hot syrup to
glaze them. Allow to cool.

Total calories per serving: 509 Fat: 9 grams
Carbohydrates: 113 grams Protein: 5 grams
Sodium: 16 milligrams Fiber: 9 grams

ALMOND SWEET MEATS
(Makes about 20 pieces, or 10 servings)

2 pounds (about 4 cups) ground almonds
2 pounds sugar (use your favorite vegan
  variety)

Make certain that almonds are
uniformly ground.

Melt sweetener in a double
boiler or heavy pan until it begins
to caramelize. Remove from heat
and quickly stir in almonds until
well combined.

Pour the mixture onto a greased
cookie sheet and spread to a 2-inch
thickness. Allow to cool and cut
as desired.

Total calories per serving: 885 Fat: 46 grams
Carbohydrates: 107 grams Protein: 19 grams
Sodium: 35 milligrams Fiber: 11 grams

ALMOND SWEET BITES
(Makes about 20 pieces, or 10 servings)

Vegetable oil spray
2 pounds (about 4 cups) blanched almonds
2 pounds dry vegan sweetener, such as
  date sugar

Spray large frying pan or saute
pan with oil and allow to heat.
Brown almonds in a saute pan
until slightly golden. Leave whole.

Melt sweetener in a double
boiler or heavy pan until it begins
to caramelize. Remove from heat
and quickly stir in almonds until
well combined.

Pour the mixture onto a greased
cookie sheet and spread to a 2-inch
thickness. Allow to cool and cut
as desired.

Total calories per serving: 897 Fat: 46 grams
Carbohydrates: 105 grams Protein: 19 grams
Sodium: 35 milligrams Fiber: 10 grams

COPYRIGHT 2005 Vegetarian Resource Group
COPYRIGHT 2005 Gale Group