Miso: Japan's flavor powerhouse: a classic flavoring perks up contemporary recipes

If you've ever ordered a steaming bowl of savory miso soup, then you're familiar with the rich, complex flavor a spoonful of miso paste can lend to a simple liquid. But to the Japanese, miso is so much more than just a soup seasoning. "In Japan, miso is the ultimate comfort food," says Eric Gower, author of The Breakaway Japanese Kitchen.

It is also the ultimate cultural food. "Written references to miso date back to the ninth century, and the soy-based condiment we know today is the result of many generations of inspired craftsmanship in Japan," says Christian Elwell. founder of South River Miso in Conway, MA. Just as France has a long tradition of cheese making, Japan boasts a heritage of artisanal miso making, a tradition that is still going strong.

It's personal too. Individuals put up batches of homemade miso and pride themselves on their recipes in much the same way that American cooks make jams and preserves. And while most Americans reach for a jolt of java to get going at the start of the day, for traditional Japanese, no morning would be complete without a bowl of fortifying miso soup.

Talk about your breakfast of champions! A single tablespoon of miso--roughly the amount used in a bowl of soup--has just 35 calories and contains two grams of protein, plus a host of enzymes thought to fortify the immune system and aid digestion. In a study published in the June 2003 issue of Journal of the National Cancer Institute, scientists from Stanford University revealed that women who ate three bowls of miso soup a day had a reduced risk of breast cancer. "As a natural immune enhancer and overall health strengthener, miso ranks way up there," raves Elwell.

FLAVOR BOOST

But what exactly is this miracle paste that has such a particular taste that even experts such as Gower and Elwell are hard-pressed to describe it? (For the record, miso's flavor has been called rich, robust, full-bodied, earthy, tangy, beany, nutty, buttery, mushroom-y, meat-like, Parmesan-like and, of course, salty!)

Miso is a mixture of cooked soybeans, steamed rice (or wheat or barley) and salt that has been injected with a mold culture to induce fermentation. Elwell likens the process to adding a sourdough starter to bread dough to make it rise. Once made, miso is sealed in cedar tubs and allowed to age and ferment anywhere from a few weeks to several years.

"Miso varieties can be broken down into three basic types: white, yellow and red, which are determined by the ratio of beans to grains and how long the mixture ferments," explains Gower. White miso, with the highest ratio of grains to soybeans and the shortest fermentation period, is the sweetest and mildest. Red miso has more soybeans, more salt, a longer fermentation period and a full-bodied flavor. Yellow miso falls between the two. It is what you are most likely to find on the shelves in the United States and the type that so many Japanese consume each morning.

Thanks to its growing availability, miso is making the leap out of the soup bowl and into mainstream Western dishes. A teaspoon or so adds vim to vinaigrettes and gives marinades robust flavor. A dollop can infuse tomato sauce with a hearty tang. And miso makes a fabulous "secret" ingredient when you want to add body to onion soup, chili or barbecue sauce.

When it comes to marrying miso with other flavors, Gower recommends pairing it with citrus. "Just combine the zest and juice of a lemon with miso to get a thin sauce that's fantastic on vegetables and broiled tofu," he says.

Perhaps the best thing about miso? Simply making room for one little tub in the fridge (it keeps for at least a year!) means that comforting soups, kicked-up kitchen standards and creative new dishes are just a spoonful away.

Freelance writer Mary Margaret Chappell has had to move the mayonnaise and ketchup to a lower shelf in her fridge to make room for the miso varieties she flow has and uses regularly.

recipe

HOT SPRING VEGETABLE
SALAD WITH
MISO VINAIGRETTE

Adapted from The Breakaway
Japanese Kitchen by Eric Gower.

Serves 6 Vegan
30 minutes or fewer

Serve as a side dish with a hearty casserole,
or spoon it over rice for all entree.

1 Tbs. miso paste
2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice
1 tsp. lemon zest
2 Tbs. plus 1 tsp. olive oil
1 tsp. apricot jam
1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
2 small zucchini, quartered and cut
  into 1/2-inch pieces
1/2 lb. fresh green beans, trimmed
  and cut into 2-inch pieces
2 cups fresh or frozen corn kernels

1. Whisk together miso paste, lemon
juice, lemon zest, 2 Tbs. oil, apricot
jam and pepper in small bowl.

2. Heat 1 tsp. olive oil in large skillet over
medium heat. Cook zucchini and green
beans, covered, stirring occasionally,
5 to 7 minutes, or until tender.

3. Uncover skillet, and add corn.
Cook 3 minutes, or until corn is heated
through. Stir in miso mixture, and
continue to cook until sauce is hot and
vegetables are lightly glazed. Serve hot.

PER SERVING: 120 CAL; 3G PROT; 6G TOTAL FAT
(1G SAT. FAT); 15G CARB; OMG CHOL; 140MG
SOD; 3G FIBER 4G SUGARS

Freelance writer Mary Margaret Chappell has had to move the mayonnaise and ketchup to a lower shelf in her fridge to make room for the miso varieties she now has and uses regularly.

STILL LIFE PHOTO BY RENEE COMET

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