SPICE up your LIFE - Recipe

Nancy Ross Ryan

Stock your kitchen with these 15 international seasonings to create delectable meals in minutes

Each of us has at least one favorite international cuisine, but chances are the thought of preparing it at home is so overwhelming we tend to enjoy it only in restaurants. But re-creating exotic ethnic flavors is easier than you may think, if you follow the lead of contemporary American chefs who practice "fusion" cookery.

Here's how it works: Begin by identifying the dominant taste in a favorite exotic dish, then incorporate it into your own cooking repertoire. For instance, tiny fermented black beans provide the earthy, pungent tang in Chinese black bean sauce, and red curry paste lends the intriguing, complex flavor to Thai red curries. Both products are readily available in jars or cans at supermarkets or Asian markets. Use them to prepare the real thing in your own kitchen or just to give your everyday cooking a flavor boost. You might also consider using miso, a fermented Japanese soybean paste, instead of oil in a vinaigrette. Or substituting smoky chipotle peppers or harissa sauce for your tried-and-true hot sauce to spice up chili, enchiladas or pizzas. The possibilities are endless--and delicious.

Because there are hundreds of tantalizing spices and seasonings (with new ones being discovered all the time), choosing a short list of them to stock an international pantry proved quite a challenge. We narrowed our selection to the 15 we felt no kitchen should be without. We've also made suggestions for adding these new taste dimensions to your own fusion cooking. Use the following recipes to jump-start your creative culinary engine, then feel free to create some global taste sensations of your own.

French Onion Pizza

6 TO 8 SERVINGS DAIRY-FREE

There's no need for cheese on this traditional onion pizza from Nice in southern France. It's made by topping a flaky phyllo crust with a thick layer of slowly cooked, succulent onions. When sweet onions like Vidalia or Maui are in season, by all means use them. Always keep phyllo sheets covered with plastic wrap to prevent them from becoming dry and brittle and difficult to work with.

1 1/2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
3 lbs. onions, thinly sliced
  (10 1/2 cups)
1 large clove garlic, minced
1 Tbs. herbes de Provence
3/4 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. freshly ground pepper
1 bay leaf
8 (18 x 14-inch). frozen phyllo sheets,
  thawed (see glossary, p. 115)
24 Greek black olives, pitted
  and halved

IN LARGE, DEEP NONSTICK SKILLET, heat 1 1/2 teaspoons oil over medium heat. Add one-third the onions and cook, stirring, until slightly wilted, 4 to 5 minutes. Remove to plate.

Repeat twice with remaining oil and onions, removing each batch of onions to plate when slightly wilted.

Return all onions to skillet. Add garlic, herbes de Provence, salt, pepper and bay leaf. Cook, stirring occasionally, until onions are tender and the consistency of a thick, chunky sauce, about 25 minutes.

Remove from heat and cool slightly, stirring occasionally. Discard bay leaf.

Preheat oven to 400 [degrees] F. Lightly coat 15 x 10-inch baking pan with vegetable cooking spray. Unwrap phyllo, discard any torn sheets and immediately cover with plastic wrap to prevent drying. Remove wrap and lightly coat top sheet with cooking spray, starting from outside edge. Lift carefully and center on prepared pan.

Repeat with remaining phyllo and more cooking spray, stacking sheets in pan. Gently ease phyllo into comers of pan, then fold or crimp edges to form 1/2-inch raised crust. Spread onion mixture evenly over phyllo, then sprinkle with olives.

Bake until phyllo is golden brown and shrinks from edges of pan, about 20 minutes. For easy cutting, carefully slide pizza out of pan onto back of another baking pan. Using kitchen scissors, cut into rectangular slices. Serve warm.

PER SERVING: 212 CAL.; 5G PROT.; 7G TOTAL FAT (1G SAT. FAT); 34G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 552MG SOD.; 5G FIBER

Mushroom Paprikash

6 SERVINGS LACTO

Fragrant with two kinds of paprika, this hearty mushroom stew is wonderful served over your favorite noodles. To make it dairy-free, simply use a soy-based sour cream alternative. If you would like extra fire, increase the hot paprika to 2 teaspoons and use 2 teaspoons mild paprika.

1 Tbs. plus 1 tsp. vegetable oil
3 medium onions, chopped
12 oz. cremini mushrooms,
  small ones halved,
  large ones quartered
1 large red bell pepper, chopped
1 Tbs. mild Hungarian paprika
1 tsp. hot Hungarian paprika,
  or to taste
1 tsp. salt
1/2 cup nonfat sour cream or
  low-fat soy sour "cream"

IN LARGE DUTCH OVEN, heat oil over medium-high heat. Add onions and cook, stirring often, until translucent, about 8 minutes, reducing heat if onions brown too quickly. Add mushrooms and cook, stirring often, until tender, about 5 minutes.

Add bell pepper and cook until tender, about 5 minutes. Add both mild and hot paprikas, stirring well to coat vegetables and prevent scorching. Add 2 cups water and salt; mix well. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to low and simmer, stirring occasionally, 20 minutes.

Two or three minutes before the end of cooking, increase heat and boil briskly to reduce sauce and concentrate flavors. Reduce heat to low. Wait until boiling subsides, then stir in sour cream and heat through, stirring. Serve hot.

PER SERVING: 90 CAL.; 4G PROT.; 4G TOTAL FAT (0 SAT. FAT); 13G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 373MG SOD.; 3G FIBER

Saffron Rice Pilaf

8 SERVINGS DAIRY-FREE (30)

Aromatic saffron lends both golden color and a distinctive flavor to this substantial pilaf. Serve it as a side dish or stuff into blanched bell pepper halves and bake, covered, at 350 [degrees] F for 25 to 30 minutes for an entree. Either way, a few tiny dots of harissa sauce add a nice touch of heat.

3/4 cup blanched slivered almonds (4 oz.)
2 tsp. vegetable oil
1 small onion, chopped
2 cups uncooked long-grain brown rice
3/4 cup packed golden raisins
3/4 cup packed finely chopped dried
  apricots
1 tsp. lightly packed saffron threads
3 3/4 cups vegetable broth
3/4 tsp. salt, or to taste
Harissa, as needed

IN SMALL DRY SKILLET, cook almonds over medium heat until lightly toasted, stirring often, about 3 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside to cool.

In medium saucepan, heat oil over medium heat. Add onion and cook, stirring, until translucent, about 4 minutes. Add rice and cook, stirring, until grains are opaque, about 1 minute.

Add toasted almonds, raisins and apricots. Crush saffron threads between your fingers and add to rice mixture. Stir to combine. Add broth and salt, increase heat to high and bring to a boil, stirring occasionally. Reduce heat to low, cover and simmer 10 minutes.

Remove saucepan from heat. Let pilaf stand, still covered, 10 minutes. Fluff with fork, dot with harissa and serve with extra harissa on the side.

PER SERVING: 352 CAL.; 8G PROT.; 7G TOTAL FAT (1G SAT. FAT); 59G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 295MG SOD.; 4G FIBER

Miso Dressing

MAKES 1/3 CUP DAIRY-FREE (30)

This recipe proves you don't need oil to make a fantastic salad dressing. Use the basic Miso Dressing or Dijon variation for tossed green salads, the orange dressing for fruit salads, the chipotle for Southwestern-style salads with beans and corn, and the pesto for pasta salads. Try the sesame-ginger on salads with bean sprouts, water chestnuts, peanuts and Other Asian flavors.

2 Tbs. white, yellow or red miso
2 Tbs. honey or light corn syrup
2 Tbs. rice vinegar

IN SMALL BOWL, whisk together all ingredients until well blended.

PER TABLESPOON: 23 CAL.; 1G PROT.; 0 TOTAL FAT (0 SAT. FAT); 8G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 210MG SOD.; 0 FIBER VARIATIONS:

Dijon: To basic dressing, add 1 to 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard and 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper.

Chipotle: Use 1 canned chipotle chili in adobo sauce, split, seeded and finely minced. Add to basic dressing.

Sesame-ginger: Add to basic dressing 1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger, 1 teaspoon minced fresh garlic, 1 teaspoon tamari and 1/2 teaspoon dark sesame oil.

Pesto: Add 1 tablespoon prepared pesto to basic dressing.

Orange: Add 1 teaspoon finely grated fresh orange peel and 1 tablespoon fresh orange juice to basic dressing.

Three-Vegetable Curry

8 SERVINGS DAIRY-FREE (30)

What could be easier than using frozen peas and ready-to-eat bags of fresh veggies for this fragrant East Indian-style specialty? Briefly frying the curry paste, made with curry powder and water, eliminates the raw spice taste and enhances flavor. For a less assertive dish, reduce the curry powder to 2 tablespoons.

3 Tbs. mild curry powder or
  1 Tbs. hot curry powder
  plus 2 Tbs. mild
1 Tbs. vegetable oil
1-lb. bag baby carrots
1-lb bag cauliflower florets,
  large pieces halved
2 cups low-fat soy milk
1 tsp. salt
2 Tbs. all-purpose flour
10-oz. pkg. frozen peas
Freshly cooked brown or white rice
  for serving
Chopped scallions, chopped
  dry-roasted peanuts and
  prepared mango chutney,
  as needed

PLACE CURRY POWDER in small bowl. Whisk in 3 tablespoons water until thickened and paste forms.

In large saucepan, heat oil over medium heat until hot but not smoking. Stir in curry paste and cook, stirring, 1 minute. Add carrots and cauliflower, stirring to coat. Stir in soy milk and salt, increase heat to high and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer until vegetables are just tender, about 15 minutes.

In small bowl, whisk together flour and 2 tablespoons water until smooth. Stir into vegetable mixture until well blended. Cook, stirring often, until curry thickens, about 5 minutes. Add peas and cook 1 minute to heat through.

Serve at once with hot cooked rice and small bowls of chopped scallions, peanuts and chutney for topping.

PER SERVING WITHOUT RICE: 126 CAL.; 6G PROT.; 3G TOTAL FAT (0 SAT. FAT); 21G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 366MG SOD.; 5G FIBER

Red Thai Curry with Eggplant

8 SERVINGS DAIRY-FREE

This delectable version of Thai curry is made with "lite" coconut milk, which has the same flavor but one-third the calories and one-third the fat than regular coconut milk. For a milder taste, substitute green or yellow Thai curry paste for the red, or reduce the amount of red curry paste to 1 tablespoon. This curry is excellent on its own or spooned over basmati rice.

12-oz. pkg. extra-firm tofu
2 (14-oz.) cans lite coconut milk
2 Tbs. red Thai curry paste
1 large onion, chopped
1 medium eggplant (1 1/2 lbs.), cut into
1-inch cubes
1 medium red bell pepper, cut into
  thin strips
2 Tbs. packed dark brown sugar
1 Tbs. rice vinegar
1 Tbs. tamari or soy sauce
1 tsp. salt
10-oz. pkg. frozen peas

WRAP TOFU in several layers of paper towels. Place in colander in sink. Set plate on top of wrapped tofu, then weigh down with large, heavy can (such as a can of tomatoes). Let stand at least 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, shake cans of coconut milk well, then open. Pour 1/2 of 1 can into large saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Whisk in curry paste until well blended. Add onion, eggplant and bell pepper, stirring well with rubber spatula (to prevent breaking tender eggplant during cooking) and scraping bottom of pan.

Add remaining 1 1/2 cans coconut milk, sugar, vinegar, tamari and salt, stirring with spatula to mix well. Increase heat to high and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer, stirring occasionally, 20 minutes.

Unwrap tofu and cut into bite-size cubes. Add to curry mixture, Stirring with spatula to mix. Cook until heated through, about 5 minutes. Add peas and warm through, 1 to 2 minutes. Serve hot.

PER SERVING: 231 CAL.; 9G PROT.; 13G TOTAL FAT (4G SAT. FAT); 28G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 489MG SOD.; 5G FIBER

Mail-Order Sources

ADRIANA'S CARAVAN: A New York-based catalog company with an impressive stock of international seasonings; (800) 315-0820.

PENDERY'S: A Texas company with an extensive line of chili blends, powdered chilies and other spices; (800) 533-1870.

PENZEY'S: A full-range spice company in Wisconsin; (414) 579-7207.

RELATED ARTICLE: THE GLOBAL PANTRY

Chipotle peppers

These smoked jalapeno peppers are available dried, pickled and canned in adobo sauce. A little bit of their outstanding smoky-hot flavor goes a long way. To reduce heat, split pepper, scrape out seeds and discard.

Uses: One of these peppers, chopped, will boost the flavor of chili, soups, stews, salsas, salad dressings, cornbreads and condiments, such as ketchup, mustard and barbecue sauce.

Curry powder

Curry powder is actually not one spice but a blend of as many as 20 different dried spices, including turmeric, cumin, coriander, mustard seeds and chilies. The powder you buy in the supermarket is mild and geared toward Western palates. You can find authentic, spicier blends in markets that specialize in Indian, Asian or West Indian food. When buying curry powder, read the label: The more spices in the blend, the better the flavor will be.

Uses: Add curry powder to salad dressings, sauces, soups, stews and cornbread batter. Use to flavor rice, couscous and pasta dishes.

Dark sesame oil

Expressed from toasted sesame seeds, this dark, thick, rich oil is used not for cooking but as a flavor accent in Asian cooking. It has a deliciously nutty nuance.

Uses: Try sesame oil drizzled over tofu and tempeh. Add to stir-fries, sautes, rice dishes, dips and sauces, or use as a table condiment.

Fermented black beans

Made from cooked dried soybeans that are salted and fermented (a process that turns them black), these pungent beans are a popular flavor in Chinese cookery. Some cooks recommend rinsing the beans well and patting dry before using; but others don't bother. The beans are sold in jars or plastic pouches in Asian markets. Also available in a convenient black bean garlic sauce, sold in 8-ounce jars.

Uses: The flavor of fermented black beans goes well with garlic and chili peppers. Add to prepared salsas, stir-fries, omelets and sauteed vegetables.

Five-spice powder

This aromatic spice blend, made from ground star anise, cassia bark (cinnamon), Szechuan peppercorn, fennel and cloves, is pungent, fragrant, hot, mild and slightly sweet--all at once. Its unique flavor and smell turn dishes into something special. A favorite in Chinese cooking, it's sold in Asian markets and most supermarkets.

Uses: Mix a little spice with salt and sprinkle on vegetables and tofu before cooking, or use as a table seasoning. Add to sugar and sprinkle on applesauce or over muffins and cookies before or after baking.

Ginger

Fresh ginger is the underground rhizome (root) of a tropical Asian plant treasured for its fresh, sweet and spicy flavor. Gingerroot is widely available at supermarkets and can be stored in the refrigerator, wrapped in paper towels, inside plastic bags. To use, just peel and mince. Grated fresh ginger is also available in jars.

Uses: Combine ginger with tamari, sesame oil and garlic and use for stir-frying. Add to curries, homemade chutneys, fruit salads, salad dressings and stewed dried fruit. Substitute fresh ginger for dried ground in recipes for cookies, muffins and cakes, but not vice versa.

Harissa

A very hot, yet subtle sauce from Tunisia made from a combination of chili peppers, cumin, coriander, caraway and olive oil. Some readily available canned versions also list canola oil (instead of olive oil), garlic, carrots and beets. Harissa can be found in jars and cans in Middle Eastern markets.

Uses: Harissa is a traditional accompaniment for couscous, but it also can be used to flavor rice pilafs, Mexican dishes, soups, stews and pasta sauces. Mix harissa with mayonnaise for a sandwich spread. A dab in cole slaw makes a huge flavor difference.

Herbes de Provence

This aromatic mix of dried herbs from southern France adds an interesting flavor to dishes. The blend usually includes basil, fennel, lavender, marjoram, rosemary, sage, savory and thyme. To make your own, mix 4 teaspoons dried thyme and 1 teaspoon each of dried oregano, savory, rosemary, marjoram, basil and sage; 1 teaspoon lavender is a nice optional addition.

Uses: This herb blend is a wonderful seasoning for sauteed vegetables, tomato sauce, frittatas, pizzas, stews or casseroles.

Hoisin sauce

Often called Chinese barbecue sauce, this thick, sweet, red-brown sauce is available in most supermarkets and Asian markets. It's widely used in Chinese cooking as a condiment and a glaze for vegetables and tofu. Ingredients include fermented soybean paste, sugar, vinegar, garlic, chili pepper and five-spice powder or star anise.

Uses: Hoisin sauce acids a special flavor to stir-fries, grilled vegetables, veggie burgers, stews and barbecue sauces.

Miso

A thick paste made from fermented soybeans, this Japanese staple comes in a variety of flavors and colors. It has three basic categories: barley, rice and soybean. The lighter-colored varieties (white and yellow) have the mildest flavor, while the darker ones (red and brown) have the strongest. Miso can be found in As an markets and natural food stores.

Uses: Miso can be used with water as a stock for soups. It's also great in sauces, marinades, dips and dressings, or use as a table condiment.

Paprika

Ground from red pepper pods, paprika ranges in color from bright orange to deep red, and in temperature from mild to very hot. Look for deep red Hungarian paprika, which is considered by many to be superior. Hot paprika, available at ethnic markets, can be extremely hot.

Uses: Add to stews, egg dishes, vegetables, rice dishes, potatoes and casseroles.

Rice vinegar

There are Chinese and Japanese rice vinegars; and both are made from fermented rice and grains, such as wheat, millet and sorghum, and are milder than most Western vinegars. Varieties include black rice, red rice, sweet rice and white rice vinegar.

Uses: Substitute rice vinegar for other vinegar in salad dressings, sushi rice and sauces, or use as a table condiment.

Saffron

The world's most expensive spice, saffron is the orange threadlike stigma of a small purple crocus. It takes an acre of flowers to produce a pound of spice, but it takes only a pinch to add a wonderful aromatic flavor and golden color to food. Saffron threads should be bright orange-red (the deeper the color the better). Avoid saffron powder, as the flavor dissipates quickly.

Uses: A pinch of saffron adds flavor to soups, stews, risotto and rice dishes, sauteed vegetables, breads and sauces.

Tamari

This wheat-free Japanese soy sauce is made from salt, water and soybeans, naturally fermented and aged for months. Because of its salty-sweet, slightly tart flavor and rich fragrance, it's a natural flavor enhancer. It is high in sodium, however, so it should replace the salt in cooking.

Uses: Substitute tamari for salt in hearty vegetable and bean soups or when sauteing assertive vegetables like broccoli and onions. Add it to stir-fries, dipping sauces and marinades. Use as a table condiment to sprinkle over cooked vegetables, legumes and rice.

Thai curry paste

Traditional Thai curry is made by heating and grinding many spices and herbs into a paste. Common ingredients in the pastes include lemongrass, kaffir lime peel or leaves, galangal, ginger, garlic, onion, shallots and cilantro. Red curry paste is made with dried red chilies; green curry paste is made with tiny, hot green Thai chilies; yellow curry paste is usually just green curry paste with turmeric or curry powder. Some brands may contain fish or shrimp paste, so be sure to check the label before buying.

Uses: A little curry paste goes a long way in flavoring dressings, marinades, rice dishes, and condiments such as ketchup, mustard and mayonnaise.

Food for Thought

Raisins

This sweet dried fruit has a whole lot more going for it than cutting a rug to Marvin Gaye's "Heard It Through the Grapevine." Ounce for ounce, raisins contain nearly as much iron as beans and two and a half times more than broccoli and kale. Although not exactly a low-calorie treat (300 per 2/3 cup), they do provide a healthy dose of dietary fiber, B vitamins and potassium. And recent research conducted by the USDA found that raisins are a rich source of disease-fighting antioxidants. --C.M.

Nancy Ross Ryan is a freelance food writer and longtime contributor to Vegetarian Times. She resides in Chicago.3

COPYRIGHT 1999 Sabot Publishing
COPYRIGHT 2000 Gale Group