the care and handling of soy

A guide to using and storing everything from miso to tofu

It's true, the soybean has never exactly glittered with star quality. It's seldom an impulse buy at the supermarket. But now that the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) is recommending that we eat 25 grams of soy protein per day to reduce risk of heart disease, this humble legume deserves a place in the spotlight. People who once snubbed tofu are realizing what Eastern cultures have known for ages: that soy is a "miracle" food. In addition to its vast and varied culinary potential, recent studies have shown that compounds called isoflavones, which are found exclusively in soy, lower cholesterol levels, relieve some symptoms of menopause, help in the treatment of osteoporosis and play a critical role in preventing many forms of cancer.

With soy foods finally entering the mainstream, there's bound to be a lot of confusion surrounding how to handle that large block of tofu or thin slab of tempeh. You may also wonder if you can freeze tofu or how long an open container of soy milk will keep in the refrigerator. To answer these and other questions, we've created this comprehensive guide to the care and handling of soy foods, including tofu, tempeh, soy milk, textured vegetable protein (TVP), soy sauce, miso and, of course, the distinguished soybean itself.

If you are new to soy, take time to explore the incomparable versatility of these miracle foods. Used properly, soy products can open the door to new dimensions in your vegetarian cooking while providing amazing health benefits. (For recipes using these soy foods, see related article "American Classics," on p. 44.)

Tofu

Also known as bean curd, tofu is a cheeselike food made from cooked soybeans. Because its neutral taste allows it to absorb the flavors of surrounding ingredients, tofu may be the most versatile food on the planet. It can be prepared in soups, sauces, entrees, desserts and even beverages; it can be fried, broiled, grilled, marinated or pureed. Tofu is available soft, firm and extra-firm in both low-fat and regular renditions. There are also ready-to-eat baked marinated versions ranging in flavor from Italian to Asian. The texture and taste of tofu can vary greatly from brand to brand, so experiment until you find the ones you prefer.

Fresh organic tofu is sold in vacuum-packed tubs in the refrigerator section of natural food stores and many large supermarkets. "Regular" tofu, or Chinese bean curd--as opposed to the Japanese-style silken variety--is the type usually called for in recipes. Firm or extra-firm is the best choice for stir-fries, cutlets, sautes and other dishes that require a sturdy ingredient that holds its shape during cooking. Soft tofu is more delicate and better suited for dips, dressings, sauces and desserts.

All tofu is highly perishable and must be kept refrigerated; check the expiration date before purchasing. (It's a good idea to avoid buying the loose water-packed tofu found in large crocks or open buckets, which are subject to contamination.) Once opened, it can be refrigerated in a tightly sealed plastic or glass container with water to cover. If you change the water daily, tofu will last up to 1 week. Fresh tofu should have a mild "beany" smell; a sour aroma indicates it has spoiled.

If you need to achieve a firmer texture for a recipe, regular tofu can be pressed before using it to remove excess liquid. This allows for better absorption of marinades and sauces. To press tofu, place the block between the folds of a clean kitchen towel or several layers of paper towels and weight it down with a plate topped with a 1-pound can for at least 30 minutes.

Freezing tofu changes its texture dramatically--many say for the better--making it chewy and better able to absorb surrounding flavors. To freeze tofu, simply drain it, then wrap tightly. It will keep in the freezer up to 3 months. Once thawed, squeeze out any water and break it into small pieces.

Japanese-style silken tofu, like regular tofu, is available in soft, firm and extra-firm varieties, but this type is primarily used to make sauces, puddings or anything requiring a creamy texture. The silken variety is packaged in shelf-stable aseptic containers, which can be kept unrefrigerated until opened. Silken tofu does not need pressing, since you rely on its water content to produce a creamy texture. Unlike regular tofu, this type does not respond well to freezing.

Miso

A fermented soybean paste with the texture of creamy peanut butter, miso is often used for Japanese soups and to enrich sauces, salad dressings and other dishes. The paste is highly concentrated and a little goes a long way. Soybeans may be fermented into a wide range of flavors, so miso varieties vary greatly. Light misos, which are pale yellow or creamy beige, are aged only a few months and have a mellow, sweet taste. Longer-aged red, amber or brown varieties have stronger, more intense flavors. Look for containers of organic miso in the refrigerator section of natural food stores. Both light and dark varieties keep well up to 6 months in the refrigerator. Freezing miso is not recommended.

Tempeh

A popular meat alternative for vegetarians, tempeh is made from fermented, compressed soybeans. It has a distinctive nutty flavor and chewy texture and the ability to absorb accompanying flavors. Grains or other foods, such as wild rice, coconut, peanuts or the sea vegetable arame, may be fermented with soy to make a variety of tempeh blends. This soy food is available in the refrigerator or freezer section of natural food stores and some supermarkets. As with tofu, be sure to check the expiration date. Once opened, tempeh can be wrapped well and refrigerated up to 5 days or frozen up to 6 months. Since tempeh is a fermented product, traces of a white mold on the surface of the cake are natural. It's also fine if you see a dark gray spot of mold--just cut it out. If tempeh feels slimy to the touch or has a strong odor, however, then it has spoiled and should be discarded.

Before using tempeh in recipes, you can briefly poach it in water to make it more digestible and mellow out the flavor. If you plan to bake it, steam it first for 15 to 20 minutes so it doesn't dry out in the oven. To give tempeh a crispy golden finish, blot the poached tempeh dry and then brown it in a skillet in a small amount of oil before eating plain or using in a recipe. This will produce the most appealing tempeh in taste, texture and appearance.

Soy Milk

Dairy-free milks made from soybeans are becoming so popular you can now find them in supermarkets as well as natural food stores. Different manufacturers' brands vary in sweetness, thickness, consistency and "beaniness." Several companies offer "light" versions of soy milk that have a low fat content and are vitamin and mineral fortified. Most brands come in a plain (or "original") flavor, which is best to use when substituting for dairy milk in recipes. They're also available in vanilla, carob or chocolate flavors. Try these when making desserts or shakes. All types should be shaken well before using.

While a few soy milks are found in the refrigerated section and must stay refrigerated even if unopened, most brands are available in aseptic one-quart containers that may be kept unrefrigerated until opened. An opened container keeps in the refrigerator for 4 to 6 days. You will know when soy milk goes bad--it develops a clotted texture and an off flavor. Soy milk also comes in a powdered form that reconstitutes with water and is especially convenient to keep on hand for baking. Freezing soy milk is not recommended.

Whole Soybeans

Soybeans are available dried, fresh, fresh-frozen, canned and dry-roasted. Boiled fresh or fresh-frozen soybeans served in the pod are also known as sweet beans or by their Japanese name, edamame (ed-dah-MAH-meh), and make a tasty appetizer or snack. Dry-roasted soybeans, rich and nutty, can be eaten as a protein-packed snack. Canned organic soybeans--both beige and black varieties--are available at natural foods stores. They are a handy and delicious addition to soups and stews and when pureed make outstanding spreads and dips. Dried soybeans require soaking and take about 3 hours to cook. Pressure-cooking significantly reduces cooking time and improves their texture and digestibility.

Textured Vegetable Protein (TVP)

TVP is an economical dehydrated meat alternative made from soy protein extracted from soy meal. Found in natural food stores' bulk bins or shelf-stable packages of granules, flakes or chunks, the almost flavorless TVP reconstitutes with hot water or other liquid and nearly doubles in volume, a fact to remember when using it in recipes. Like tofu and tempeh, TVP readily absorbs the flavors of its companion ingredients. With its chewy texture and meatlike appearance, the granular TVP can be used to make chili, spaghetti sauce and sloppy Joes, while TVP chunks are better suited for hearty stews. Sample a few brands to find one you like best.

Soy Sauce

All soy sauce is not created equal. Many supermarket brands are overly salty and loaded with additives, artificial coloring and flavoring. On the other hand, traditional organic Japanese soy sauces, such as shoyu and tamari, are naturally brewed mixtures of soybeans, salt and water and have rich, complex flavors. If traditionally made, both sauces are aged for one year. Natural food stores and well-stocked supermarkets carry both shoyu and tamari. To appreciate the subtle flavor differences between tamari and shoyu, experiment among the brands until you find a favorite. Certain companies sell reduced-sodium shoyu and tamari as well as a wheat-free tamari. If the bottle doesn't specifically say "wheat-free," be sure to check the label, especially if you're allergic. To preserve the flavor of soy sauce or tamari, purchase it in small quantities and store it in the refrigerator. It will keep indefinitely.

ROBIN ROBERTSON is the author of several vegetarian cookbooks, including The Soy Gourmet (Plume, 1998) and 366 Healthful Ways to Cook Tofu and Other Meat Alternatives (Plume/Penguin, 1996).

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