Something to root for - root vegetables are flavorful and nutritious; recipes - includes related article explaining different root vegetables

Underground vegetables offer earthly delights. Root Vegetables have never inspired love at first sight. Rough skinned, gnarled and knotty, they wear an ugly outer cloak that belies their interior majesty. But beneath their rough exteriors, they harbor a wealth of earthy flavors and nutrients.

Long thought of as peasant fare, root vegetables are actually excellent sources of fiber, minerals, vitamins and low-calorie energy. Rutabagas, also called Swede turnips, belong to the cruciferous family of vegetables, which has cancer preventing properties. They are a good source of potassium, vitamin A and niacin. The giant white Japanese radish, daikon, has only 20 calories per cup and supplies 36 percent of our recommended daily amount of vitamin C. In addition, daikon has a reputation for aiding in the digestion of fatty foods. The turnip, also a cruciferous vegetable, has edible greens as well as roots. The greens are rich in vitamins A and C and in calcium; the roots are high in potassium. Carrots are an excellent source of beta-carotene (the precursor to vitamin A), known to be a cancer preventative. One medium carrot has only 31 calories and supplies more than the recommended daily amount of vitamin A.

Produce aisles offer a wide range of root vegetables. Turnips, parsnips and rutabagas are at their juiciest and cheapest right now. But you'll also find red, golden and zebra striped beets, celery root (which is as good mashed as it is raw) and nutty flavored Jerusalem artichokes in your local markets, as well as tropical roots like taro and yuca.

The following recipes, which range from a delicious baked gratin to a quick and easy wrap, confirm that edible roots are emerging from the shadows to make their presence known.

Root Vegetable Gratin

8 SERVINGS LACTO

This creamy recipe is lower in fat and higher in flavor than traditional scalloped potatoes. It also can be made with nondairy ingredients, such as low-fat oat milk, available in natural food stores.

1/2 lb. parsnips (about 3 medium), peeled
  and thinly sliced
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
  to taste
2 Tbs. all-purpose flour
1/2 lb. carrots (about 6 medium), peeled
  and thinly sliced
1 lb. turnips (about 4 medium) or
  rutabagas, peeled, thinly sliced
1 Granny Smith or Golden Delicious
  apple, peeled, cored, quartered
  and cut into thin slices
1 medium onion, cut into thin
  round slices and separated
  into rings
2 cups low-fat dairy milk, goat's milk
  or oat milk
2 cups shredded cheddar cheese or
  cheddar-style soy cheese

Preheat oven to 400 [degrees] F. Coat 13- by 9- by 2-inch baking dish with vegetable oil spray. Layer parsnips over bottom of dish. Sprinkle with salt, pepper and and 1 tablespoon flour. Layer carrots over parsnips. Sprinkle with salt, pepper and remaining tablespoon flour. Layer turnips over carrots, then cover with apples and onion rings. Sprinkle with salt. Pour milk over vegetables.

Cover with aluminum foil, sealing edges well. Bake until vegetables are tender and completely cooked, about 1 hour. Remove from oven, uncover and sprinkle with cheese. Return to oven and bake until top is browned, about 30 minutes. Let sit 5 to 10 minutes before serving.

Per Serving: 221 cal.; 11g prot.; 11g total fat (7g sat. fat); 22g carb,; 34mg chol.; 257mg sod.; 4g fiber.

Oven-Roasted Salsify Soup

4 SERVINGS DAIRY-FREE

Chef Sarah Stegner of the Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton, Chicago, Offers a seasonal vegetarian menu at all times. This is one of the most popular soups from her fall-winter menu.

1 1/2 lbs. salsify, trimmed and peeled
2 Tbs. olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
  to taste
3 1/2 cups vegetable stock
1/2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme
1/4 cup soy mi;k or dairy milk (optional)

Preheat oven to 400 [degrees] F. In medium bowl, toss salsify with oil, salt and pepper. Spread onto baking sheet and roast until tender, about 30 minutes.

Chop roasted salsify into 1-inch pieces. Reserve 1/3 cup for garnish. Put remaining salsify into large pot. Add stock and thyme. Simmer over medium heat until heated through and flavors are blended, about 15 minutes. Transfer mixture to a blender or food processor and puree. Return to pot, add milk if desired and heat through. Ladle soup into bowls and garnish with reserved salsify.

Per serving: 186 cal.; 6g prot.; 8g total fat (1g sat. fat); 28g carb.; 0 chol.; 1,117mg sod.; 5g fiber.

Root Vegetable Soup

8 SERVINGS DAIRY-FREE

This soup will benefit from overnight refrigeration, which allows the flavors to meld. Serve it with pumpernickel or rye bread.

1 Tbs. olive or canola oil
3 carrots, trimmed, peeled, thinly
  sliced (1 1/2 cups)
2 medium white or yellow onions,
  peeled, chopped (2 cups)
3 cloves garlic, minced
6 beets (about 1 lbs.) trimmed,
  peeled, quartered and thinly
  sliced (4 cups)
1 small head cabbage, cored,
  quartered, very thinly sliced
  (about 6 cups)
10 cups water
3 Tbs. tomato paste
3 Tbs. brown sugar
2 Tbs. rice vinegar
1 tsp. caraway seeds
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
  to taste
Low-fat yogurt or dairy-free soy sour
  cream for garnish (optional)

In Large pot, heat oil over medium heat, tilting pan to spread. Add carrots, onions and garlic; cover and cook, stirring occasionally, 5 minutes. Add beets and cabbage. Cover and cook 10 minutes. Add remaining ingredients except yogurt. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 1 1/2 hours. Taste soup for seasoning, adding salt and pepper as needed. Soup should have a nice sweet-sour tang.

Ladle soup into bowls. Garnish with yogurt or soy sour cream.

Per serving: 111 cal; 3g prot.; 2g total fat (0 sat. fat); 22g carb.; 0 chol.; 84mg sod.; 5g fiber.

Roasted Roots

6 SERVINGS DAIRY-FREE

You'll be amazed at the versatility of roasted root vegetables. You can serve them hot with salt and pepper and a drizzle of olive oil, mash them coarsely, and/or saute briefly in olive oil and season to taste. You also can puree, season and heat them for an elegant side dish.

1 to 2 lbs. beets, washed and trimmed
2 lbs. root vegetables, washed and
  trimmed: carrots, turnips,
  parsnips, parsley root, daikon,
  radishes, celery root
1 1/2 to 2 lbs. salsify, washed and trimmed

Preheat oven to 425 [degrees] F. Cut beets and turnips larger than 2-inches in diameter in half. Cut rutabagas into 2-inch chunks. Cut celery root into eighths or 2-inch chunks. Cut large daikon into 2-inch chunks.

Cover 2 large baking sheets with aluminum foil. Spread all root vegetables in single layer on baking sheets. Cover with another sheet of foil. Crimp all edges to seal packet well. Roast until tender, about 45 minutes to 1 hour. Remove from oven. Let cool in foil until cool enough to handle. If desired, peels can be scraped off easily with paring knife or rubbed off with paper towels.

Per serving: 207 cal.; 4g prot.; 1g total fat (0 sat. fat); 49g carb.; 0 chol.; 233mg sod.; 12g fiber.

Root Vegetable Curry

6 SERVINGS DAIRY-FREE

This spicy curry is wonderful served over couscous and garnished with a dollop of sweet mango chutney. When buying curry powder, look for brands that contain the largest number of spices in the blend---16 is not unusual. The fewer the spices, the less flavorful the curry.

1 Tbs. olive or canola oil
1 medium onion, chopped
1 large clove garlic, minced
2 tsp. curry powder or more to taste
3 cups vegetable broth
1 lb. turnips (about 6 small) or
  rutabaga, peeled and cut into
  1-inch chunks
1/2 lb. daikon, peeled and cut into
  1-inch chunks
1/2 lb. baby carrots, halved
1 cup frozen peas
2 Tbs. all-purpose flour
1/4  cup water

In Large Saucepan, heat oil over medium heat. Add onion and garlic and cook, stirring often, until onion is soft, about 5 minutes. Add curry powder and stir until powder is heated and aromatic but not browned. Add broth and vegetables. Increase heat and bring mixture to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer, covered, 45 minutes.

In small cup, whisk flour into water until smooth. Add to curry, stirring constantly, until mixture thickens, about 4 minutes. Serve hot.

Per serving: 113 cal.; 3g prot.; 4g total fat (1g sat. fat); 196 carb.; 0 chol.; 548mg sod.; 4g fiber.

Stir-Fry Root Wraps

8 SERVINGS DAIRY-FREE

Hoisin, often called Chinese ketchup, is available in a wide variety of brands. All contain sugar; however, brands that list the following ingredients are likely to have a more complex, authentic flavor: fermented soybeans, rice vinegar, chili and sesame oil.

Eight 5-inch flour tortillas
2 Tbs. tamari
2 Tbs. sherry or vegetable broth
1 Tbs. water
1 tsp. brown sugar, packed
2 tsp. canola oil
1 Tbs. peeled, grated fresh
  gingerroot
1 large garlic clove, minced
3 carrots, peeled, halved lengthwise
  and cut into -inch-thick
  slices (2 cups)
2 small parsley roots, halved lengthwise
  and cut into -inch-thick
  slices (1 cup)
6 daikon, peeled, halved lengthwise, cut
  into 1/8-inch-thick slices (2 cups)
6 medium red radishes, halved and cut
  into 1/8-inch-thick slices (3/4 cup)
1 bunch green onions, trimmed well,
  cut into 2-inch lengths
  and julienned
1 1/2 cups broccoli sprouts
Prepared hoisin sauce as needed

In large skillet over medium-high heat, heat tortillas on each side briefly until warmed and soft. Wrap in clean towel, stacked, until ready to fill.

In small bowl, combine tamari, sherry or vegetable broth, water and brown sugar. Stir to dissolve sugar. Set aside.

In large wok or cast iron skillet, heat oil over high heat. Add ginger and garlic and stir-fry about 1 minute. Add carrots and parsley roots and stir-fry 5 minutes. Add daikon and stir-fry 2 minutes. Add radishes and green onions and stir-fry another 2 minutes.

Add reserved tamari mixture. Cook, stirring and turning ingredients until liquid is almost evaporated. Add broccoli sprouts and cook just to heat through, about 1 minute. Remove from heat.

Divide ingredients into 8 portions. Spread each tortilla with hoisin sauce (about 2 teaspoons). Spoon some stir-fried vegetables onto tortilla and roll up.

Per serving: 104 cal.; 3g prot.; 3g total fat (0 sat. fat); 17g carb.; 0 chol.; 323mg sod.; 2g fiber.

Root Vegetable Hash Browns

8 SERVINGS DAIRY-FREE

This potato-root vegetable hash makes a filling breakfast with a side of vegetarian sausage links or topped with a poached egg.

1 Tbs. olive oil
1 medium onion, finely chopped
1 1/2 lbs. russet potatoes (about 3
  medium), scrubbed and cut
  into 1/2-inch dice
4 cups Roasted Roots (see recipe, p. 54),
  cut into 1-inch pieces
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
  to taste
1 tsp. chopped fresh thyme
1/2 tsp. chopped fresh sage
1 cup vegetable broth

In 12-inch nonstick skillet, heat oil over medium heat. Add onion, cover and cook over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, about 10 minutes. Add potatoes. Cover and cook until potatoes are cooked through and beginning to brown, stirring occasionally, 20 minutes. Add root vegetables, salt, pepper and herbs and mix well. Add broth. Increase heat to medium-high. Cook, uncovered, until heated through and liquid evaporates, 5 to 10 minutes. Cook a few more minutes to brown bottom slightly. Serve right away.

Per serving: 265 cal.; 4g prot.; 3g total fat (0 sat. fat); 72g carb.; 0 chol.; 240mg sod.; 12g fiber.

Potato and Root Vegetable Puree

8 SERVINGS DAIRY-FREE

1 1/2 lbs. russet potatoes, peeled and cut
  into 1-inch chunks
1 1/2 lbs. of one or combination of celery
  root (celeriac), turnips or daikon
2 tsp. salt
1 Tbs. olive oil
1 tsp. ground white pepper
1/4 tsp. nutmeg

Put potatoes and root vegetables in large pot. Add water to cover and bring to a boil. Add 1 teaspoon salt. Reduce heat to medium and cook until tender, about 25 to 30 minutes. Drain. Transfer vegetables to food processor. Add oil, remaining salt, pepper and nutmeg. Process until mixture is pureed. Serve as you would mashed potatoes.

Per serving: 129 cal.; 3g prot.; 2g total fat (0 sat. fat); 27g carb.; 0 chol.; 592mg sod.; 5g fiber.

RELATED ARTICLE: Know Your Roots

Not everything that grows below ground is a root vegetable. According to Chicago horticulturist Kate Jerome, jicama, sweet potatoes and white potatoes are not roots but tubers. And onions, garlic and shallots are underground bulbs. These are the roots to know:

* Beet Varieties include red, golden, pink, white and striped beets (chioggia). Choose beets that are firm and have smooth skins and bright-green crisp greens with small ribs. Cut off tops one inch from the root (crisp young beet greens may be cooked). Store unwashed and refrigerated in a plastic bag for one week. Available summer, fall and winter.

* Burdock A long (up to 24 inches) thin root, known in Japan as gobo. It is available in Japanese and natural foods markets. Because of its often fibrous texture, it's best used as a seasoning to lend its sweet earthy flavor to soups and stews than as a vegetable to be eaten on its own. Purchase thin young roots no more than one inch in diameter and 18 inches long. Store unwashed and refrigerated in a plastic bag for up to 4 days. Scrub with vegetable brush before cooking. Peel just before using as flesh turns brown when exposed to air, and slice thinly. Available year-round.

* Carrots Several varieties of the long orange carrot are now available, including ready-to-eat baby carrots. Although all carrots, when fresh, are high in vitamin A, the new BetaSweet purple carrots and two other varieties, called Ingot and Healthmaster, are 50 percent higher in beta-carotene. Purchase firm and brightly colored carrots that are small to medium in size. Remove tops. Store unwashed and refrigerated in plastic bags for up to one week. Available year-round.

* Celery root or celeriac This knobby, gnarled root has a delicious celery-parsley-like flavor. Choose small roots that are heavy and dense for their size. Remove any greens and store unwashed and refrigerated in plastic bags for up to one week. Celery root discolors when peeled, but it doesn't affect the flavor. To prevent discoloration, submerge peeled celery root in lemon water until ready to use. Available September through May.

* Horseradish Increasingly available in markets, this longish root (6 tO 12 inches) can be 1 to 3 inches thick and has knobs on its ends. While it can't be cooked and eaten by itself, its pungent flavor can enhance that of milder root vegetables and it can be used as a condiment in small quantities. Grated horseradish can be found in jars in the refrigerated section of the grocery store. But maximum flavor is achieved by grating it fresh. Buy unblemished, firm roots. Remove any greens. Store unwashed and refrigerated in plastic bags for one week.

* Parsley root Its flavor is both carrot-and celerylike. Purchase firm roots that range in size from small to medium. Leave greens on until ready to cook. Greens may be used like parsley. Store unwashed and refrigerated in plastic bags for one week. Available late fall and winter.

* Parsnips Purchase firm roots (they look like white carrots) that range in size from small to medium (larger ones may be woody) and have smooth, unblemished skins. Store unwashed and refrigerated in plastic bags for up to two weeks. Available fall and winter.

* Radishes Varieties include red, white, black and daikon. The radish family not only contains the familiar round red radish but the white icicle radish (hard to find outside of farmers' markets), the black radish (almost as pungent as horseradish) and the giant, mild white daikon radish, which is now grown in California and widely available. Farmers' markets also yield less common round radishes in shades of white, purple and lavender. Purchase radishes that are firm and not spongy. The root end should be white and crisp, not brown and withered. Remove greens, store radishes unwashed and refrigerated in plastic bags for one week. Available year-round.

* Rutabagas Often called the Swede or Swedish turnip, this vegetable, believed to be a cross between cabbage and turnip, was relatively unknown before the 17th century. In cooking, rutabagas are interchangeable with turnips. Buy heavy-for-their-size rutabagas with unblemished skins. Most come to market with a wax coating that must be removed before cooking. Unlike turnip greens, rutabaga greens are not edible. Remove any greens and store in the vegetable bin. Available year-round, with the peak season spanning July through April.

* Salsify Varieties include the familiar white-skinned salsify (also called oyster plant because of its delicate flavor) and the black-skinned more difficult-to-find scorzonera. They are interchangeable in cooking. Purchase firm, unblemished roots that are medium in size; large ones tend to be woody and small roots don't yield much flesh after peeling. Remove any tops and refrigerate unwashed in plastic bags for up to one week. Available June through February.

* Turnips This root vegetable sometimes comes to market with a waxy coating that must be removed before cooking. If possible, purchase unwaxed turnips. Choose those that are small to medium, heavy and smooth Skinned. Young, crisp turnip greens make a good cooked vegetable. To store, remove greens; refrigerate unwashed in plastic bags for up to two weeks. Available year-round, but they are at their peak from October through February.

RELATED ARTICLE: Roots of Success

Here are some quick and delicious ways to serve root vegetables.

* Daikon slaw Peel daikon and grate. Toss with cole slaw-style dressing or combine with shredded carrots and red radishes.

* Root vegetable crudites Trim, wash and serve the following root vegetables whole, cut or sliced: red radishes, daikon, carrots, rutabagas, white chioggia beets, turnips. Make vegetable chips from carrot, radish and turnip coins. Serve with hummus, yogurt;herb dip or garlicy soy mayonnaise.

* Curried carrot salad Peel and grate carrots. Mix with raisins and a vinaigrette flavored with curry powder.

* Smashed roots With potato masher, coarsely mash peeled, roasted or boiled root vegetables. Season and mix with salt and pepper, a drizzle of virgin olive oil, and a pinch of any of the following: cayenne, nutmeg, cumin or cinnamon.

* Celery root remoulade Mix peeled, coarsely grated celery root with lemon juice, light mayonnaise, a little Dijon mustard, and salt and pepper. Mound on lettuce.

* Radish sandwiches Spread whole-grain or rye bread thinly with low-fat or fat: free cream cheese. Cover with thinly sliced radishes. Serve open face, cut into triangles.

* Garnish Top pureed soups, such as squash, potato and pumpkin, with thinly sliced red radish coins. Garnish dishes with carrot cuds; peel long strips with vegetable peeler, place in ice water to crisp and curl.

* Salad crunch For extra flavor, color and crunch in green salads, try grating and adding any of the following uncooked roots: carrots, rutabagas, daikon, red radishes, turnips, even beets.

* Root bruschetta Grate carrots, beets or parsnips. Saute quickly with garlic in olive oil. Spoon on top of small squares of toasted Italian country bread.

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