More than marinara - pasta and pasta sauces; includes recipes and related articles - Cover Story

Most dried pasta cooks in 10 minutes, but it takes about 20 minutes for the water to boil. That's plenty of time to whip up an endless variety of splendid sauces. The key is to put the pasta water on to boil before you begin to prep the ingredients and start the sauce. Then once the pasta is cooked, just add the sauce and toss.

When it comes to pasta, the secret to success is in the cooking. Pasta tastes best when it's cooked al dente ("to the tooth"), that is, tender but still firm to the bite. Overcooked pasta is a texture-less dud: It's mushy and flavorless. If you have difficulty determining when pasta has reached the al dente stage, remove one or two noodles from the water about 3 minutes before the end of cooking time (as indicated on the package), let cool slightly, then bite it. The pasta should be just tender, but still firm and fully cooked through.

One thing to keep in mind when cooking pasta is to use enough water. Overcrowded pasta won't cook evenly and will stick together. To prevent this from happening, measure at least 4 quarts of water per pound of pasta and stir the noodles occasionally to separate. To add flavor, always cook pasta in salted water (unless you are on a salt-restricted diet). Add the salt at the same time you add the pasta. Cold water that is salted will take longer to come to a boil.

One piece of equipment that makes cooking pasta easier and somewhat safer is a pasta cooker, a large-capacity pot with a lid and a perforated insert with handles on each side. When the pasta is done, instead of struggling with the pot to drain, the insert may be lifted, draining the water from the pasta back into the pot. Like most cooking equipment, pasta cookers are available in all price rangers.

Most Italians roll their eyes at the way many Americans drown their pasta in sauce, creating a soupy stew. They believe that pasta, no matter what shape, only needs to be lightly coated with sauce. You should figure on about 2 cups of pasta sauce per pound of pasta. And there is more to pasta sauce than liquid. One pound of pasta can support a large company of vegetables, which are also at their best when not awash in sauce.

A word to the wise about sauce ingredients: When you use the best quality, you can frequently use less, because the flavor is vibrant. If fresh, perfectly ripe plum tomatoes (called for in some of the recipes) are not available, then substitute with the best brand of canned tomatoes. You might even buy several cans and conduct a test to see which you prefer. And there is no substitute for quality olive oil. Don't skimp on this ingredient -- there really is a difference between the cheap stuff and the premium brands.

The selection of pasta recipes is a sampler of some of the delicious possibilities that can be completed in just 30 minutes.

Farfalle with Lemon-Asparagus Sauce

Bowtie-shaped pasta is simply dressed with tender asparagus and fresh lemon juice and topped with crisp garlicky bread crumbs.

1 Tbs. salt 1 lb. dried farfalle (large bow-tie) pasta 3 Tbs. olive oil 1 1/2 lbs. asparagus spears, tips and tender stems cut into 1-inch lengths (about 4 cups) 2 tsp. grated lemon zest 1/3 cup fresh lemon juice Salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste Sauteed Garlic Crumbs (p. 45), Parmesan cheese or Parmesan-style soy cheese (optional)

In large pot, bring 4 quarts of water to a boil. When water boils, add salt and pasta, stirring to prevent sticking. Cook until al dente, stirring occasionally, about 8 minutes.

Meanwhile, in large skillet, preferably nonstick, heat oil over medium-high heat. Add asparagus and cook, stirring often, just until tender and bright green, about 3 minutes. Add lemon zest and juice and cook, stirring occasionally, until liquid reduces slightly, 1 to 2 minutes.

Before draining pasta, scoop out half cup pasta water and reserve.

Drain pasta and transfer to serving bowl. Spoon asparagus-lemon sauce over pasta and toss to mix. If pasta seems too dry, add reserved pasta water, a little at a time. Season with salt and pepper. Serve topped with Sauteed Garlic Crumbs, Parmesan cheese or Parmesan-style soy cheese. Makes 6 servings. PER 1 1/2-CUP SERVING: 256 CAL.; 10G PROT.; 4G TOTAL FAT (1G SAT. FAT); 46G CARB. 0 CHOL.; 404MG SOD.; 4G FIBER. VEGAN/LACTO

Radiatore Provencale

Fresh vegetables, such as tomatoes, eggplant and bell pepper, impart this dish with the flavors of sunny Southern France. Fusilli or penne pasta would also be good with this chunky sauce.

1 Tbs. salt
1 lb. dried radiatore
(radiator-shaped) pasta
2 Tbs. olive oil
1 clove garlic, minced
1 large onion, chopped
1 large green bell pepper, seeded
and chopped
1 small eggplant, cut into 1-inch
pieces
1 lb. ripe plum tomatoes (about 5
medium), chopped
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
to taste
Sauteed Garlic Crumbs (p. 45),
Parmesan cheese, or
Parmesan-style soy cheese (optional)

The bold, spicy flavors of tomato salad, green chilies combine with the hearty taste of black beans to create a delicious pasta sauce. Fresh cilantro is sometimes sold as "coriander."

1 Tbs. salts
1 lb. dried rotelle (wagon wheel-shaped)
pasta
16-oz. jar mild tomato salsa
4-oz. can chopped green chilles,
drained
2(15-oz.) cans black beans, rinsed
and drained
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro
1 green onion, finely chopped
1 cup shredded Monterey jack
   cheese

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