The world's capital of the catwalk

iT is the workhorse of Italy, it is the business centre, industrial capital and home to the country's stock market. The stylish city of Milan is also the world's fashion capital, so be prepared to be dazzled, shocked, amused and, on occasion, left feeling pretty dowdy.

In the constant rivalry between Milan and Rome, Milan always comes off worse. The Romans will tell you the weather in Milan is terrible. They'll also tell you that Milan's museums and art collections are not a patch on those of Rome, Venice and Florence. In fact, Milan is home to Leonardo da Vinci's Last Supper - although you may queue for hours to see it.

Yet perhaps their most vicious insult is that the Milanese put work before pleasure. This is not true. While the city has churches that boast histories dating back more than a thousand years, Milan is nothing if not all about worldly pleasure.

Shopping in Milan has been elevated to almost religious significance, and the Brera district, just north of the duomo, is about as tempting as it gets. This is the most exclusive area in Milan, with its artists, posh galleries, open-air cafes and sophisticated fashion shops full of wares for the home and handmade clothes that seem more like creations of sculptors than tailors and dressmakers. Much of the city seems to have been designed to seduce the senses and to devil you into maxing out your credit cards - whether its shopping, eating, drinking or sight-seeing, or even just strolling along Navigli to the the centre of town.

Milan, in fact, is a sprawling city, but all the tourist action you'll want lies around and between the grand, marble cathedral, or duomo - the world's fourth largest church - and the Castello Sforzesco. This ancient fortress was partly designed by da Vinci, and is now home to a number of museums.

The Parco Sempione, a huge and fascinating expanse of lakes, meadows and little bridges lies directly behind the Castello Sforzesco. This is perfect for a Sunday afternoon.

Alas, La Scala, Milan's famous and fabulous opera house which first raised its curtain in 1778, is closed for the next two years for a revamp. Opera lovers will have to travel to the Teatro degli Arcimboldi in the former industrial district La Bicocca, not nearly as impressive but there is less competition for tickets.

Nearby La Scala, Piazzale XXIV Maggio marks the beginning of the trendy Navigli district, full of bars and restaurants. On Saturdays, a large outdoor market selling clothing, jewellery, bicycles and knick-knacks occupies the streets near the Darsena, the ancient port.

This is not a city without la dolce vita. Hundreds upon hundreds of drinking establishments, wine bars, pubs, cafes, bistros, wine cellars and live music bars compete for attention - particularly during the ritual happy hour that the Milanese cannot go without. From 6 pm to 9.30 pm, you can drink cheap cocktails accompanied by substantial buffets with several courses.

The restaurant scene is equally frenzied. There are eateries furnished in hi-tech style, or that are inspired by the African Savannah, with palm trees. There are wine bars in minimal Japanese style and others that make you think you are in Bollywood.

So when you hear tall tales about the Milanese having no sense of fun, just raise your glass and say "salute" - Italian for cheers - with a knowing smile.

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