Holidays: ON THE COPACABANA - RIO'S GRAND

CIGARETTE packets in Brazil, as in every other country, carry a health warning.

But they don't warn you against cancer, heart disease or any other lethal illness.

They tell you that they can cause sexual impotence... which tells you a lot about the country.

"If you've got it, flaunt it is the Brazilian attitude," said our rep Sonya. "And if you haven't got it, still flaunt it. And if you only think you've got it...well...flaunt it."

We were staying at the Mirasol Hotel in Rio de Janeiro's Copacabana district, home to the most famous beach in the world and also the tiniest bikinis.

From the hotel's rooftop pool you could see the Corcovado with its statue of Christ The Redeemer welcoming visitors to Rio, Sugar Loaf Mountain (where Roger Moore fought Jaws on the cable car in Moonraker) and the beach itself.

The Sugar Loaf cable car takes you to the top in two, three- minute stages and you climb 1,300ft - the view is spectacular, but it does help to have a head for heights.

I overcame my fears with a large Caipirinha (the national drink, a potent concoction of spirit, lime and sugar) costing just pounds 1.50 from the bar. The top of the Corcovado is reached first by a train through the world's biggest city forest and then up 250 steps to the statue of Christ the Redeemer.

The view from here is even more spectacular, taking in almost all the city, including the world's biggest football stadium, the 200,000- capacity Maracana, built for the 1950 World Cup.

There are also two excellent cafes where you can take in the view and enjoy a meal (around pounds 5 a head including a cold beer) while humming birds hover around you and vultures wheel overhead. But visitors to Rio are warned to be careful...don't wear jewellery and leave your camera and wallet behind in your hotel safe when you hit the beach.

Talking of beaches, Rio has miles of golden sand but the best- known has to be Copacabana.

During the day it's home to hordes of sunworshippers. Rio locals (known as Cariocas) spend hours getting the perfect tan and

are obsessed with their bodies. Don't be surprised to see people doing stretches on the golden sand or press-ups on the promenade.

Unfortunately the beach can be a dangerous place at dusk when the light starts to fade and before the floodlights kick in. But the seafront bars and restaurants are always packed with locals and tourists having a good time together. There's also a buzzing street market where must-have Brazil football shirts and other mementos can be picked up for a few pounds.

The food in Rio is fantastic. I spent two memorable evenings - one at a churrascaria (meat restaurant) and the other at a fish restaurant called Marius, where dinner costs pounds 16 for as much as you can eat. At Marius I started with oysters and a seafood cocktail, then went on at the waiter's insistence to have prawns the size of langoustines, langoustines the size of lobster, baby squid, octopus, cod, salmon and finally a whole lobster. The waiter seemed surprised and more than a little disappointed when I finally told him I could eat no more and waddled off back to my hotel.

A two-hour flight from Rio takes you to Salvador, the historic former capital of Brazil. And one hour's coach ride from Salvador is the Costa do Sauipe. This purpose-built resort opened as recently as November 2000 and represents a pounds 1billion-plus tourism investment by the Brazilian government.

I stayed at the five-star Breezes Superclubs all-inclusive hotel, where the rep told me: "The easiest way to explain it is that anything you can get your hands on - food or drink - is free."

And that includes three excellent a la carte restaurants, including a superb sushi bar with delicious fish and rice dishes.

If you can drag yourself away from the huge swimming pool, there's a magnificent palm-fringed beach where you can while away the hours on a sunbed with a parasol provided by the hotel.

The resort also has a championship golf course where a round including club and buggy hire costs around pounds 50 per person. Take your own golf balls if you can, as a box of three costs pounds 12. It's also worth getting out and about and exploring the local area.

A 30-minute bus ride away is the resort of Praia do Forte, home to a turtle sanctuary and ecological reserve. Although this is basically just a dirt track street lined with shops, bars and restaurants, it's well worth visiting during the day to buy gifts - and the town really comes alive at night.

I had been warned to expect muddy feet due to several days of rain before I arrived. In fact I ended up with muddy ankles, shins and knees - plus a soaking shirt and shorts - after getting caught in a torrential storm.

But none of that mattered as I sat on a plastic chair in a tiny wooden restaurant while the rain drummed on the tiled roof and feasted once again on giant prawns and lobster, washed down with ice- cold Brahma beer.

Back at Breezes, I fell soundly asleep on the huge double bed, the BBC World News flickering on TV. Home was a 121/2-hour flight away - but that was the next day. Holidays: BRAZIL TIPS - FACT FILE

BRAZIL is 3hrs behind GMT.

ALWAYS drink bottled water.

TAKE insect repellent and a strong sunscreen.

US dollars and travellers cheques are easier to exchange.

FORGET car hire (driving can be hazardous). Buses are cheap and reliable.

WATCH out for pickpockets.

AT night stick to well-lit streets or take a taxi.

RIO Carnival is on March 3-4 and the weeks before and afterwards are just as much fun.

Copyright 2002 MGN LTD
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