Derby day herb: for fast fragrant flavor, mint wins��by a nose!

The first Saturday of May means one thing to Kentuckians: Derby Day. "Time to pick a winner, put on fancy hats and pluck handfuls of fresh mint (from the garden or the grocery store) to make mint juleps, the official drink of the Kentucky Derby.

Outside of the Bluegrass State, mint's an international favorite for its lightning-quick ability to add fragrant flavor. In India, fresh mint is stirred into cold sauces such as chutney and yogurt-based raita, which tame the bite of spicy curries. Mint can also be found in Afghan and Persian cooking where it's used to liven up soups, stews and turnovers. In Southeast Asia, mint finds its way into rice paper rolls, cold vegetable dishes and salads--and whole sprigs are often brought to the table as a cooling condiment. North African cooks chop handfuls of mint into tabbouleh, a salad made with bulghur wheat, tomatoes, cucumbers, parsley and lemon juice. And no meal in Morocco, Tunisia or Algeria would be complete without a steaming glass of sweet mint tea to cap it off.

But you don't have to be a whiz at world cuisines to cook with mint. "Mint works really well with almost all vegetables," says Jerry Traunfeld, chef/owner of the Herbfarm Restaurant in Woodinville, WA. "Anytime you think basil with a dish, you can also think mint. It's really nice with tomatoes, and it makes a great pesto." Mint's a natural with beans and lentils as well--Traunfeld likes to finish hot bean dishes by adding fresh chopped mint just before serving.

Of the over 600 types of mint, Mentha spicata, or spearmint, is the most common and the one to choose for cooking, says Traunfeld, adding that varietals such as peppermint, chocolate mint, apple mint and ginger mint are best reserved for drinks and desserts.

Peppermint in particular has such a strong, mentholated flavor that it can overwhelm savory dishes. Nevertheless, Traunfeld encourages people to try out different mints in the garden. "They're great scented plants and grow like weeds," he says, "so you always have way more than you'll ever need and can use them lavishly in cooking."

Cookbook author and restaurant critic Patricia Wells is a prime example of someone who took inspiration from her overflowing mint garden. One day, while walking through the 15 varieties she had planted there, she hit upon the idea of making a simple salad from fresh mint and sorrel leaves. She now uses that recipe in all of the cooking classes she teaches in Provence. "It's a brilliant marriage of sweet and bitter, a combination that always surprises the palate," she raves.

Now that spring is out of the gate (along with those Derby runners) and mint's back on the market, there's no better time to let a sprig or two inspire you. Before you know it, this versatile herb will take over your warm-weather cooking--just as the plants themselves tend to take over the garden!

treat

MORE THAN JUST BREATH FRESHENERS, AFTER-DINNER MINTS IMPROVE DIGESTION

STILL LIFE PHOTO BY RENEE COMET

Freelance writer Mary Margaret Chappell is still waiting for the five mint seedlings she planted last year to "take over" and provide enough mint for a steady supply of tabbouleh and tea.

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